StratfordShark

I'm doing the intake R&R on 88 S4.

The main jet hose has a normal jubilee hose clip where it connects to the manifold on LHS In the PET this clip is described as "hose clamp" (999 512 350 02).

The other end connects to the 'Y' brake venturi piece. Here the hose is clamped with a fitting which doesn't have a screw to tighten it, but it just seems to have been crimped onto the hose somehow. In the PET this is desc ribed just as a "clamp", p/n 999 512 457 00.

I want to replace all the hoses including the main jet. Is there an obvious method for removing this non-screw clamp? I could just attack it but don't want to risk damage to the Y-piece, and feel there must be a more scientific method!

I'm also just curious as to why this fitting was used, rather than a regular clamp (is it anything to do with the fact that the venturi tapers at the point where the hose is clamped on?). I find there's usually a sound reason for the way everything is engineered on a 928!

Pics show the whole y-piece with clamp in question on left bottom, and a close up of the clamp I want to remove.

Rob Edwards

Dremel it off with a cutting wheel- you may dig into the hose a bit, but you're replacing that anyway (right?). You won't run into the Y-connector, the hose is plenty thick.

I have no idea why they used them, but they do look a lot nicer than a hose clamp with the extra tail hanging out. I bought some of the 999 512 457 00 and used them in the same places when I did my intake. I used the same pliers to crimp them that I used for crimping the clamp on the tensioner boot.

Here's a thread about them:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...er+boot+pliers

StratfordShark

Doh!

Thanks Rob. A Dremel sounds nice and 'surgical', and as you point out that thick hose (which I am replacing anyway) gives plenty of leeway before getting through to the y-piece.

You know this intake job is turning out to be fun and I'm learning lots along the way. However I felt less enthusiastic about it yesterday when I was trying to loosen the rail connectors at the rear damper/regulator which meant lying almost flat over the engine (I didn't remove the hood) while simultaneously trying to shift the union nuts and counterholding the damper/regulator. They were stuck fairly hard and I kept thinking that if I slipped I'd bash my face hard into the top of the manifold!

Rob Edwards

Removing the hood (well, removing the hood AND hinges (together!) from the body) is the best thing I did on my intake R&R job. It took about 20 minutes to remove, about 20 minutes to replace, and made life a LOT easier. The only 2-man part of the job is re-installing it- you need someone to hold it up while you get some of the hinge bolts started and re-install the shocks. The rear hinge bolt is a tight fit because of the blower motor, but a 13mm gearwrench work well here- it WILL come out. I took the opprotunity to replace my foam liner, which was oil soaked and falling apart- much easier out on the workbench.....

StratfordShark

Thanks for suggestion Rob - I may well go down this route (for one thing I was already concerned that I would be able to tighten up the rear fuel connections sufficiently, but I can see it will help access for lots of stages of the project).

Have just read through the whole original thread on that clamp - interesting stuff. I had pretty much decided though that I'd replace with a standard worm drive clip if there was no fundamental reason not to. Want to replace all the hose clamps anyway just so they're nice and shiny to go with the new hoses!

Rob Edwards

I'm 6'4" and I can't imagine stuffing myself under the hood to get at all the connections behind the intake with the hood on. If it's at all reasonable to do so, pull the hood!

StratfordShark

You've almost convinced me, and am I correct assuming that if I remove the hood and hinges together (I have the gear wrench), then there will be no awkward alignment problems on the re-install?

Rob Edwards

Correct. The boltholes through the hinges to the body have eseesntially no play in them, so everything re-lines up nicely, at least in my experience.

EDIT: Unbolt the intensive washer tank, it's held in with a single 8 or 10 mm screw and flip it out of the way- that'll give you a ton of room on that side. The biggest hassle is getting the rear bolt out of (& into) the bolthole adjacent to the blower motor housing. Of course, now's a good time to pull the blower, clean your evaporator, oil the blower motor, etc......

UKKid35

If you do the cam belt at the same time you can stand on the ground between the rad and the engine, this makes working on the intake much easier, and no need to remove the hood.

FlyingDog

For those hose clamps, you can just wedge a screwdriver in from one side and twist back and forth. The part sticking out will bend open releasing the clamping pressure.