Front wheel bearing seal number & spindle wear question
#1
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Front wheel bearing seal number & spindle wear question
Hi, 1990 S4.
1 - Does anyone know the generic part number for the front wheel bearing assembly seal eg 55x45x10?
2 - If I can adjust all the play out of the front wheel by tightening the bearings does this mean the spindle is not past its use by date. There is some minor evidence of the bearing wearing on the spindle. From what I've read a worn spindle means that the play cannot be adjusted out so I assume that no play means still ok. Is this a correct assumption.
Many thanks,
Myles Garmonsway
1 - Does anyone know the generic part number for the front wheel bearing assembly seal eg 55x45x10?
2 - If I can adjust all the play out of the front wheel by tightening the bearings does this mean the spindle is not past its use by date. There is some minor evidence of the bearing wearing on the spindle. From what I've read a worn spindle means that the play cannot be adjusted out so I assume that no play means still ok. Is this a correct assumption.
Many thanks,
Myles Garmonsway
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Answer 2:
Take your new ungreased wheel bearing and slide it on to the clean spindle. If you can feel a difference in friction as you move it around from the unworn middle section to the worn section, you are probably in need of replacement. You can confirm this with a micrometer but the feel test will tell you in an instant. Generally you can get away with a spindle that's been "polished" smooth by the bearing, but anything that looks or feels like "wear" is too much.
It may be possible to tighten a new bearing on there enough to "get the play out", but you MUST NOT tighten it so tight that you can't move the washer with a small screwdriver without wedging it against the shoulder of the hub or the spindle nut. It must move easily, or you won't have room for the film of grease around the rollers, and the bearing will self-destruct. More whell bearings are destroyed , along with the spindles they ride on, by overtightening than are lost to wear on loose bearings. Adjusted too tight, the bearings heat up and end up getting tighter on their own, kind of a snowball effect that always results in failure.
Take your new ungreased wheel bearing and slide it on to the clean spindle. If you can feel a difference in friction as you move it around from the unworn middle section to the worn section, you are probably in need of replacement. You can confirm this with a micrometer but the feel test will tell you in an instant. Generally you can get away with a spindle that's been "polished" smooth by the bearing, but anything that looks or feels like "wear" is too much.
It may be possible to tighten a new bearing on there enough to "get the play out", but you MUST NOT tighten it so tight that you can't move the washer with a small screwdriver without wedging it against the shoulder of the hub or the spindle nut. It must move easily, or you won't have room for the film of grease around the rollers, and the bearing will self-destruct. More whell bearings are destroyed , along with the spindles they ride on, by overtightening than are lost to wear on loose bearings. Adjusted too tight, the bearings heat up and end up getting tighter on their own, kind of a snowball effect that always results in failure.
#3
Team Owner
the most likley place for wear on your spindle is the inner bearing seat check the bottom of the spindle, .
Adjust as Dr Bob has stated if the wheel still has play ,it should still will work OK but you may notice that your getting some front brake squeal esp if your running harder than stock brake pads. If you have a deep groove in the spindle then you may have to replace it (PITA).
Ususally Azone has the right seal but its not as well made as the factory parts are
Adjust as Dr Bob has stated if the wheel still has play ,it should still will work OK but you may notice that your getting some front brake squeal esp if your running harder than stock brake pads. If you have a deep groove in the spindle then you may have to replace it (PITA).
Ususally Azone has the right seal but its not as well made as the factory parts are
#4
Drifting
I had a problem with getting my bearings adjusted properly because I changed the bearings but not the races. Once I got fed up with it, I bought new bearings (which come with races) from the local parts store(which is really odd because they stock inner and outer bearings from 2 different companies for the 928.) I used a hammer and punch to get the first race out. Once out, I think I was able to use a press for the other one. Then I pressed in new races, packed the new bearings with real grease and installed. Several thousand miles with no problems.
#6
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loctite make a product specifically for such worn spindles called something like Loctite bearing fit - I think it is 660 but you should check with a loctite stockist
Marton
Marton
#7
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James,
thanks for the part no - exactly what I was after!.
Dr Bob & others,
thanks for the advise. I will check out the spindle when I get the new bearings. I will also check out the loctite option as a backup.
Regards,
Myles Garmonsway
thanks for the part no - exactly what I was after!.
Dr Bob & others,
thanks for the advise. I will check out the spindle when I get the new bearings. I will also check out the loctite option as a backup.
Regards,
Myles Garmonsway
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#8
Chronic Tool Dropper
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The locktite "stud and bearing mount" product may not be the perfect solution, but it may work anyway. The challenge is that it needs to be used on clean grease-free surfaces, bearing pressed to it's final place before the product sets up. For this application, you have no easy way to install the inner bearing grease-free and then later pack the bearing in placel. Perhaps you could pack the inner bearing after the locktite sets up, using one of those needle things on the end of the grease gun nozzle or something. If it wasn't for that darn seal it would be real easy.
#9
Burning Brakes
Myles:
Just remembered that I have '86.5 spindles on my car , so I double checked the PET - same part # for all years (477 405 641) - so you're good to go with the numbers I posted earlier.
James
Just remembered that I have '86.5 spindles on my car , so I double checked the PET - same part # for all years (477 405 641) - so you're good to go with the numbers I posted earlier.
James
Last edited by jheis; 02-11-2008 at 09:51 PM.
#10
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Any experienced eyes have an opinion on the health of these spindles? The bearings felt fine to me pre-disassembly (not that it stopped me from leaving well enough alone.... ) .
#11
Team Owner
most of the wear will occur on the lower side of the inner bearing seat if its worn you will see a ridge formed where the bearing race sits
#12
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An eye won't help. But your old races might. Press out the inner races from one set of your old bearings. Then, slip them (one at a time of course) onto the spindle to where the would be when everything is installed. Once on the spindle, if you can move a race up-and-down or left-and-right then you've got some spindle wear. You'll feel the race move if you've got wear. If you don't feel it move then you're probably good to go (with a new set of bearings.)
#13
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There is a loctite product that is designed to exactly fill any gaps between the bearing & its seat - for when there is minimal wear; LOCTITE 641 BEARING FIT.
Marton
Marton