cooling flaps
#1
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cooling flaps
My 90S4 was running a bit hot this morning. I thought it might be the fans since it started getting hot while sitting at a light but the temperature needle did not come down very fast once I started moving. Since I was only two miles from home, I cranked heater up to full and got home. After the car cooled down a bit I looked under the hood and yes, the cooling flaps were almost closed. The previous owner had used a cable tie to hold the flaps open so the cable tie must have given up. I reached down, opened up the flaps, which gave me no resistance when I moved them. The flaps on the driver's side seem very loose. It feels like I can simply reach down and if I tug on them, I think i can break them and pull them out.
Any reason not to do this? I'd like to eliminate the possibility of this happening again. Is there any special procedure I should follow or can I just reach down and start tugging on them until they break.
Thanks
Jim
Any reason not to do this? I'd like to eliminate the possibility of this happening again. Is there any special procedure I should follow or can I just reach down and start tugging on them until they break.
Thanks
Jim
Last edited by Jim90S4SFCA; 05-03-2008 at 05:59 PM. Reason: I had to correct a sentence
#2
Drifting
I really don't think that's your problem.
Even if the flaps are closed it shouldn't overheat. You'd just expect the fans to work a little harder. The flaps are not air tight.
Could be that the PO thought it might fix the overheating problem that your apparently stuck with.
When did you replace the thermostat and rear thermostat seal? That rear seal is the most likely overheating problem. But there are other reasons for overheating.
The flaps on my 90' S4 work great. I see no reason to remove or disable them; completely reliable.
Even if the flaps are closed it shouldn't overheat. You'd just expect the fans to work a little harder. The flaps are not air tight.
Could be that the PO thought it might fix the overheating problem that your apparently stuck with.
When did you replace the thermostat and rear thermostat seal? That rear seal is the most likely overheating problem. But there are other reasons for overheating.
The flaps on my 90' S4 work great. I see no reason to remove or disable them; completely reliable.
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You can break them out, or remove the whole assembly, or fix it to work correctly.
Here's the procedure for removal https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/136063-cooling-flaps-removal.html
Rich
Here's the procedure for removal https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/136063-cooling-flaps-removal.html
Rich
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Hi,
I've had the car for almost 6 years and this is the first time it has ever run hot. It didn't overheat but it got close. The needle just got into the red zone but I never got the "engine temp too high" message on the dash.
I had the thermostat replaced a couple of years ago at Devek. Maybe it is time to get it replaced but I was hoping it was something simple like the cooling flaps.
Thanks
Jim
I've had the car for almost 6 years and this is the first time it has ever run hot. It didn't overheat but it got close. The needle just got into the red zone but I never got the "engine temp too high" message on the dash.
I had the thermostat replaced a couple of years ago at Devek. Maybe it is time to get it replaced but I was hoping it was something simple like the cooling flaps.
Thanks
Jim
#5
I'd be surprised if the temperature would go into the red as a result of the flaps being closed. There may be more to it. Anyway it's a simple test to wire the flaps open again and go for a test drive.
Colin. 89GT.
Colin. 89GT.
#6
Drifting
Many people will suggest removing the flaps completely as they were discontinued in '91, but I'm guessing this was primarily a cost saving measure.
While it would be insane to leave a faulty system connected when it would cause overheating, it is worth remembering that the grill slats are also used to reduce drag, protect the condenser, and that they operate in stages.
You can confirm correct operation of the controller and slats simply by switching on the ignition, as they immediately perform a test cycle.
Having said all that, I doubt they would stay closed or even partially closed much during the summer in CA.
While it would be insane to leave a faulty system connected when it would cause overheating, it is worth remembering that the grill slats are also used to reduce drag, protect the condenser, and that they operate in stages.
You can confirm correct operation of the controller and slats simply by switching on the ignition, as they immediately perform a test cycle.
Having said all that, I doubt they would stay closed or even partially closed much during the summer in CA.
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You can confirm correct operation of the controller and slats simply by switching on the ignition, as they immediately perform a test cycle.
Hi Paul,
Thank you. I will check the flaps for correct operation.
Jim
Hi Paul,
Thank you. I will check the flaps for correct operation.
Jim
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#8
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I had a similar problem my flaps went closed and the temps got to just under the red before i noticed it ,I pulled off , opened the hood and the flaps were closed, switched on the A/C and they opened then I pulled the fuse it was fine after this
After i got back from my trip, I did open the relay for the flaps and the contacts were dirty so i cleaned them and installed the fuse they now seem to function correctly
After i got back from my trip, I did open the relay for the flaps and the contacts were dirty so i cleaned them and installed the fuse they now seem to function correctly