S4 MY88 - backup lights do not work
03-02-2009, 04:29 PM
#31
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Philadelphia
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Hi Rog!
Maybe it's the dang tail light harnesses...they rot pretty good! Did you happen to pull out the dome light at the rear of the headliner? It's got a whole bunch of wires coming in and going out..... in that s4 I was just toying with it was all busted and the wires were making contact and causing all kind of problems for the tail lights.
Maybe it's the dang tail light harnesses...they rot pretty good! Did you happen to pull out the dome light at the rear of the headliner? It's got a whole bunch of wires coming in and going out..... in that s4 I was just toying with it was all busted and the wires were making contact and causing all kind of problems for the tail lights.
03-02-2009, 05:17 PM
#32
Race Car
On my 5-speed 
my reverse light problem was because of the connector in the spare tire well. I disconnected it and cleaned the contacts, then reconnected and my reverse lights have been good ever since.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
my reverse light problem was because of the connector in the spare tire well. I disconnected it and cleaned the contacts, then reconnected and my reverse lights have been good ever since.Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
03-02-2009, 05:29 PM
#33
Rog, did you check the bulbs?
03-08-2009, 03:00 PM
#34
AutoX
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Lyon , France
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Dear Wally
Your tip worked fine , thanks .
The lamp in the back was the short-circuit .
Got all removed and will replace all with brand new ones .
One more question :
After fixing this issue , the fuse survives ... great .
But the red lamps in the doors , the ones which are seen by people behind when doors are open ,
they keep blowing even when I press the contactor which is normally pressed when doors get closed .
How come ?
I removed the lights - one was in very poor condition , white powder around the connections , and broke when removed ... until I have another tip toi fix it .
Thanks
Your tip worked fine , thanks .
The lamp in the back was the short-circuit .
Got all removed and will replace all with brand new ones .
One more question :
After fixing this issue , the fuse survives ... great .
But the red lamps in the doors , the ones which are seen by people behind when doors are open ,
they keep blowing even when I press the contactor which is normally pressed when doors get closed .
How come ?
I removed the lights - one was in very poor condition , white powder around the connections , and broke when removed ... until I have another tip toi fix it .
Thanks
03-08-2009, 04:07 PM
#35
Team Owner
add some silicone sealant to the harness where it goes into the boot for the door lights.
This should keep out water.
You will probably need bulb holders for both sides, as well as bulbs, they are a specific size
This should keep out water.
You will probably need bulb holders for both sides, as well as bulbs, they are a specific size
03-09-2009, 12:25 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
I assume that you meant to say that the lights were still glowing, rather than blowing.
The most common problem is the failure of the interior light switch at the bottom of the hatch latch receptacle.
The most common problem is the failure of the interior light switch at the bottom of the hatch latch receptacle.
03-05-2024, 07:07 PM
#37
Before getting involved with the switch, check at the connector in the spare tire well. Use an Ohmmeter or multimeter on the resistance setting to check for continuity in Reverse (less than five Ohms) on the connectors between the gray/yellow wire and the black/yellow/red wire. Should be open (no continuity, infinite Ohms) when not in Reverse, closed (less than five Ohms) when in Reverse. That will condemn or validate the switch.
newbie question.. little confused
doing this test and when in reverse I have 0 but when not in reverse I have 37.1
does this mean a bad switch?
ty!
03-07-2024, 09:45 PM
#38
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
It may perhaps mean you need a new battery in your DVM. Its not a very meaningful measurement and is unlikely to be an accurate representation of this switch. Are you sure you are measuring the correct wires? - post a picture of what you are doing.
Alan
Alan
03-07-2024, 10:39 PM
#39
in in the spare wheel well and checking the gray/yellow and black yellow red
appreciate the help
03-12-2024, 10:13 AM
#41
Team Owner
separate the connector, then check the switch for continuity.
