fomanchu

Ok..*ahem* ..First I am officially a Rennlist member, after years of lurking. (whoohoo)

I own a 82 928 that I stumbled upon about 4 years ago..I was looking at a clean 924 when my Uncle told me of a V8 Porsche he knows that a guy is selling! WTF? A V8? A quick Google search brought me to this site, I read as much as I could about the car between here and Pelican and decided to buy. The car was in horrible condition, but I bought it think it would be easy to fix/repair, yeah I knew it would more expensive than a 924/944 but the BWAAAAAAAAAAAHH from the exhaust had me hooked!

I cleaned out the hornets nests(YIKES), did some maintenance on the shark, drove her around , bought a ton of parts (still tallying receipts) and then the auto tranny died. It was always suspect from, but then forward gears crapped out but it still burnt rubber in reverse!! So, I removed the exhaust prepping for the auto tranny swap...

Needless to say, life took over, family problems/financial problems and the 928 just sat in the garage under a car cover. Approx 2 years ago, I jumped the car and she cranked right up!! (I know a big no-no). Well, life is better now but I'm at a crossing point w/the Shark. Do i sell or do i fix?

Soooo, I need some motivation to at least get her cranked again...I gotta make sure she can start either way. I'm at a point where I know I will never get the cash back that I invest or have invested, but I still need to do something! So I dig in the parts bin and found the following treasures:

New Plugs
New Plug Wires
New Fuel Pump w/Check Valve
New Fuel Filter
Oxygen Sensor
(2) New Oil Filters (wow)
15w40 Delvac Oil (need to buy this 8 qts)
New fuses (all sizes)


The following I replaced:

Cap/Rotor/Coil - Replaced about 4 years ago.
Ignition switch - Replaced last year.
Fuel Pump Replay - Replaced about 3 years ago (Think I have a spare)

I plan on pulling plugs adding a lil wd40 to each cylinder, letting it sit overnight and then rotating the engine manually(CLOCKWISE). Then after replacing all of the above, buy a new battery and crank! Is there anything I'm missing before the crank, besides a fire extinguisher.

PS.. I have pics but I need 2 shrink 'em! Will post them soon..
Also, my car has the following sticker on the radiator (This Porsche Serviced by Scobey Rogers III), anyone have any idea if this was a dealership at one time?

Pics..

dr bob

Flush the old fuel from the tank and replace with new BEFORE you even try to start. Old gas varnishes everything unless some Stabil or similar conditioner was used prior to storage. You'll find out quickly if it's been in there too long-- old gas smells funny.

The WD-40 would be a good idea if you were worried about the rings sticking in an iron bore. It won't hurst anything and might help. You'll get better comfort from pulling the plugs, and putting motor oil in the cylinders. Do the hand cranking to move the oil around. Then crank with the starter motor, plugs still out and ignition disabled, to pressurise the oil system and the bearings before there's combustion load. New oil would be a plus, and you may wish to change it again after an hour or two of running.

Check all the other fluids including the trans fluid before you start the car. Your failure description says B2 piston is broken, a repair that you can do yourself with the trans in the car. Part is a common M-B piece. Search here on Rennlist for more details. New trans fluid and a clean pan and filter before starting so old crud doesn't pump through the trans.

New battery, no jumper cables please.

Keep us posted on your progress!

SolReaver

Hey fellow addict...yea hearing that exhaust note gets a lot of us. you are doing a "Wake up" and a general "refresh" search the forum for similarly situated individuals and you will find lots of good info.

Think about a timing belt and a general engine refresh. I know, I know it is a non interference engine. However, I heave heard that the belts "set" or something to that effect and you run the risk of traumatizing your waterpump as well as increasing your workload if you keep running on an old belt. Besides, there is a lot at the front of the engine that will need to be checked out while you are in there.

Yes, all the fluids, with the possible exception of the trans fluid. The trans work will prob drain most of that. Pull the rims and inspect the brakes. These cars go really well and need adequate braking. Suck out the old brake fluid with a turkey baster and add fresh stuff. Drain all of the old coolant since you might want to take out the radiator to do the TB anyway this is not a big deal remembering the two bolts that drain the coolant in the block. I like the orange aid Audi coolant. Whatever you use,it should be phosphate and silica free. Mix with distilled water.

Safety note: early 928s had some sort of ball joint issue I am not totally familiar with. Something about a failure that could be potentially catastrophic...If I had your car..I would look into it before driving.

Motivation? I try to budget quality time with some good tunes and top it off with refreshment It is amazing what you can accomplish if you work with direction and organization. Keep a log book of hours and general notes to stay organized. If you don't have a set of manuals...get one. If you haven't read the 928 sticky on RL...read it. Make a punch list or To do list and dig in. dedicate at least a few hours every week. It is amazing what you can do with just that. Find fellow enthusiasts in your area and offer to help. Or, ask for their help. The pictures are good, but a 928 person actually looking at your car can give you a much better appraisal. Neworking can be a real time and money saver as well as helping you stay on target.

Grounds...clean em. Fuses and relays...clean em. Fix it, Don't sell it. It is worth a LOT more as a runner than a project. Get it moving and then drive it. These things hate to sit.

fraggle

It will be expensive. Remember that these cars were at the top of the market when new.

It will be time consuming. Take solace in the fact that these cars were still built mainly by hand. You will be able to work on it.

When you are done - actually you never will be - you will have a car so rewarding to drive and own, you won't want anything else. You will have a hobby to share with dozens, if not hundreds of individuals on the same wavelength as you. Those who drive saturns to work won't understand you. Most women will consider you slightly insane, but not dangerous. You'll slowly absorb all sorts of obscure 928 related knowledge. You'll find the slight distain the 911 crew of the 928 confusing as your skills and experience gives you appreciation for all things mechanical and german. Your daily driver will degrade as more resources are dedicated to the altar of the 928.

The journey will be as rewarding as the desination. Go get started.


This is why I pulled my S4 motor.

Tampa 928s

I would use some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders. I used it on all the cars, my sons motor when apart, I soaked the cylinders for a couple of days and the carbon came off with a paper towel helps lower compression from the build up. When your done place some rags over the holes and turn the motor over or you will get a shower.

dr bob

Tampa's point is good. For those playing along at home, Marvel Mystery Oil is a mineral-oil-based high-detergent lubricant that is identical to ATF in almost all properties. The mineral oil base means it will mix well with gasoline fuels so the detergents can do a job on injection pieces, where ATF will sometimes ash or coke around overheated parts. For almost any use for Marvel Mystery Oil other than as a fuel system additive, ATF is a cheaper and equal substitute. Good point also on the towels over the plug holes to avoid the spray. That also keeps stray stuff from getting drawn into the chambers.

fomanchu

I will take my time and devote a few hours a week and keep a log. I've done so much work over the years, it would seem a waste just to let her go.

I will try to find the Marvel Mystery oil this week and try to spin the engine manually. Thanks for all the advice. I will keep you posted of my progress!

bigmac

Plan on coming to Sharks in Hell this August. See you there.

Mac

fomanchu

1st off, thanks to all for the advice, this is truly a great site. I've been working on the shark off and on for the last month, taking my time and slowly doing things in a methodical order so that the joy of the BWAAAHH will be that much more appreciated! So far,I have done the following:

Drain Gas -
Install new fuel pump/check valve
Install new filter
Install new plugs
Install new wire
Install new battery
Install new negative battery cable (old was was suspect)
Replace fuses
FI Relay

Previously Done:
Install new ignition switch (2008)
cap/rotor/coil (2003)
Thermo Time Switch (2003)
Temp Sensor (2003)
Ballast Resistors (2003)
FP Relay (2003)

Oh..also I found 13 pages of records/reciepts of past purchases from Devek,928gt,Pelican Parts and 928intl! Wow, I was very meticulous at record keeping (****)!

So, after cleaning negative/positive battery cables and the ground cable under the passenger side (Per WallyP's write up), doing the marvel mystery oil and turning the engine (clockwise) and installing all the above, shaking the installing fresh gas and taking a deep breath..I turned the key and ...nada! It cranks..sputters and dies when I release the ignition switch from the start position.

Ok..i was mentally prepared for this! So i find my cd with the 928 manual in pdf, buy the Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Mgmt Manual, grab my trusty multimeter and begin troubleshooting! I decide that the FI relay has never been changed, purchased one, installed and the same results.

So..lets see, spark, fuel and air..all cars need these things! So i buy a noid light to check injectors, buy spark plug tester and all checks out fine (nice sparks). Next, I move the crank to TDC and very that cylinder one is at the top, but the rotor is not pointing to cyl 1 on the cap(???). Also, Im gonna check the Thermo II/temp again, since they've been in the car for 5 years, even tho' its been stored inside and will replace the green wire by the distributor since its no longer green and track each vacuum line down.

Also after reading past posts, what is the possibility of the crank sensor going bad?

Sorry for such a long post, but Im trying to give as much info as I can to help with the troubleshooting.

Thanks again!

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

See what voltage you have at the 15 terminal of the coil (positive terminal) with ignition on. I may be wrong but I don't think the 82 has a crank position sensor.

fomanchu

J.Kenzie,

I have 3v and the 15 terminal of the coil and ground...Thanks!

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

3V is low end of acceptable. I get 4.8V. It took me a while to trouble shoot my resistors/coil. You might double check you voltage at jump post with ignition on, also check the voltage at the 0.4 Ohm ballast resistor input side (the one with a single wire) with ignition on.
Good luck

fomanchu

Ok..will check that now..

fomanchu

While retesting voltage at coil (which is still between 3v to 3.5v) I smell something burning..at first I thought it was the coil, but after further investigation, its the ballast resistors. Also, im getting very low voltage at the positive terminal on the passenger side of the car. Im gonna remove the ballast and do some add'l testing.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

I had something similar. My 0.4 Ohm resistor was extremely hot. It is bypassed when the ignition key is in the start position. On my car the double lead on that resistor was shorted to ground. My problem was internal to the starter motor solenoid/switch assembly. You may have a short there or in the wiring.
Also low voltage at the jump post with a new battery suggests a partially drained battery (hidden current drain, I left my hatch ajar) or continuity problems from battery to starter to jump post.