majhopper

I removed my instrument pod some months ago while chasing a flaky oil pressure indicator. Re-installed and everything was OK. Two weeks ago I lost my turn signals and Hazards. I would get only a solid green turn indicator and no flasher.

Saw a post here on Rennlist about the WFS being fried due to removal with battery connected. I always disconnect (after once seeing a friend's wedding band melted into his finger) but it sounded plausible.

Pulled WFS from parts car and had my turn signals back. Then they went INOP again, but in a different way.

Long and the short of it is that I had flaky (loose) wiring on the WFS connector on harness. Fixed that but now have INOP turn signals and hazards - only the right side works.

It would seem that the replacement WFS is now fried as well.

Replacement switches are 60.00!

I was called out of town, took the switches, wiring diagram and multimeter with me. I had drilled the rivets out of the original switch so I could see what's in it.

The only components I can find inside that might "fry" are a 120ohm resistor and the bulb - both check OK.

The contacts look black but test ok with multimeter.

My question is what exactly has "fried" in this switch? I haven't opened the "stem" part that holds the bulb and plunges in - is there some sort of ballast or fuse inside of that?

I'd like to figure out a way to fix this, and failing at that, routing around it and doing without hazards. I just can't bring myself to spend 60.00 on a swtich!

Any ideas on what "fries" in these swtiches? Disassembly and re-assembly is easy enough, the rivets could be replaced with bolts.

Mrmerlin

I would suggest that you follow the wire harness back to the CE panel you will p[robably find a shorted wire , also check the tyrn signal switch for similar shorted wires.

Always ask your self what was the last thing i fixed and recheck your work.

majhopper

Mrmerlin,

I did find the loose wiring - on the connector coming off harness at pod - the connector to the WFS. That was probably caused by myself during the first (clumsy) pod removal/re-installation.

My 8 year old daughter and I have traced and checked anything related to flashers from pod to CE

When I first swapped the switch, everything worked great.

Now the switch is fried again because I didn't know those wires were loose, that has been corrected.

My question is what "fries" in these switches?

The only discrete components I can see (or that are shown on wiring diagram) are the bulb and a 120ohm resistor, both of which test fine.

I found one on eBay for 20.00 and bought it.

But after having now developed a good procedure for disassembly and reassembly of this switch, I would love to figure out how to actually fix it.

When I get the new switch I should be able to figure it out, having a known good quantity to test against. I was just wondering if anyone knew what exactly "fries" in this thing.

The idea of a "switch" frying really sticks in my craw. And I love a great mystery as much as a cheap fix.

Thanks for your reply Mrmerlin.

Mrmerlin

I dont know of the switches frying, however it is very possible that you have a shorted wire especially in refitting the pod, possibly on one of the hold down screws , or that the wires to the turn signal switch are possibly shorted
Look at removing the pod and checking the wires and their routing, look for wires with a shiny insulation as opposed to the sating finish, Shiny = overheated

majhopper

Mrmerlin, here is the thread I found about "frying" a WFS:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ghlight=hazard

It tracks with my experience, as everything worked great once switch was replaced, but went inop again after re-installation - the intermittent wiring must have caused this. I found the loose wiring after pulling pod again and hooking up all switches, pots and cluster assy to test/trace. I put power back to it and was working it over with the multimeter, when I grabbed the WFS assy it went "flaky" because of the loose wires. Fixed and confirmed to CEP.

So it does seem possible to "fry" one of these switches. I now get two distinct sets of symptoms - one with each of my switches. 100% repeatable and predictable, so it would seem that both switches are bad, but in different ways. Weird.

I just can't get my head around how a switch is destroyed. I am on the road right now, but will play around with them in car again tonight. Amazingly, during all of this, I have not blown a fuse or relay - yay!

Thanks again.

Mrmerlin

warning be careful testing.
The pod switches can and will ground out on their sides and if this happens with the battery connected you will have Lord Lucas filling the interior with smoke. The pod is made of aluminum and will ground out onto sides of the pod switches unless they are fully seated

majhopper

Turned out to be a dirty turn signal stalk.

I swapped for the one out of my parts car, which turned out to be even less functional. Now four sets of symptoms, with 2 Warning Flasher Switches and two Turn Signal Stalks. LOL.

Ran home to mama and did the only thing I know to do in situations like this and liberally hosed it all down with this:

Napa carries it.

I flooded the inside of the stalks and switches with this stuff while operating them, exercising the turn signal arm with particular vigor. All four parts are now functional.

I've been using this stuff for years on my wife's embroidery machines, where machine oil tends to atomize and move into areas housing electronics. Wish I had thought of it sooner.

I am now cleaning the entire Central Electrical Panel and associated fuses, relays and connectors with this, as a prophylactic measure.

Thanks for your suggestions MrMerlin.