KenRudd

+1

Garage and car look familiar!

DonS

Being a belt-and-suspenders type of guy I always try to take it a step further and use two additional jack stands (in addition to the first four) AND leave the jack at the other end just barely touching but ready to take weight. Also, two of the four have the base at a 45* angle to the car to prevent lateral tipping.

Finally, once all is in place I test the lift by (gently) pushing the car in both directions to assure myself that it's on solid footings. Some may disagree with testing but it gives you a very secure feeling about how the lift has set. If you can't move it by trying then it very probably isn't going anywhere if it's bumped. I'd still do this on any lifting mechanism.

checkmate1996

Folks, I bought this this scissor lift about five years ago for $900. Best $900 I spent. Many of the local 928 members have seen in it action and or had their cars on the lift themselves. It works great and I wouldn't hesistate a second to buy another one. I've even removed the TT with this lift. Simply, use the lift to raise the car and then place 4 heavy duty jack stands under it or whatever else floats your boat.(I personally bought 4 3 ton 18"-44" jackstands so I can raise the car to any height. Worked great for removing the tranny). You'll have all the space you need. There isn't anything on this car that can't be done with this lift.

auzivision

I'm pretty sure a car properly set on 4 well built stands is going to be awfully hard to knock off.

I’ve tried pushing hard and giving a it few hip checks and it doesn’t budge.

Then I either take the wheels off and store them under the or leave a jack in the up position just short of carrying weight.

david928

If you use ramps on the front end, then the tires, though lifted vertically, are still in contact with the ground and provide lateral stability against any accidental bumping.

axis of evil

low cost alternative

aaddpp

Mike, thanks, thats a nice looking setup looks like it gives about 19 or 20" of clearance to work. Similar to what I use, but at less weight and cost. Only draw back is that it does not allow you to tackle some of the wheels off work.

Dave

aaddpp

Thanks all for the feedback / suggestions. Obviously a lift is the preferred option (jealous of the sweet lift Rixter !!!), but that will need to wait a while. In the meantime, my preference is obviously for something a bit a bit wider, and with fewer moving parts, but if I can't have that then Dr. Bob, your recs for some jack stands with additional supporting blocks may be put to good use.

Always appreciated,
Dave

Fogey1

Awww ... it's no fun if you don't give us a link - or at least a name to Google.

Boganspeed

Those timber stands gave me an idea.... So we knocked these up out of some scrap at my mate's workshop.
Approx 400mmx400mm base and gives 300mm lift under the tyres.
Put some angle iron on the front stands to stop the car moving as well as the hand brake.
Super stable and has given me plenty of room to work underneath the car.


Best of all, they only cost me a bacon, egg and cheese toasted sandwich and an Iced Coffee.

linderpat

Hmm. I don't trust that design. I prefer wood for these types of lift systems.

Boganspeed

I'll let you know if it falls on me

shmark

Jack stands are very stable when properly used. I always get the car up on them, check everything and give the car a good hip check before trusting anything. With the stands right, it won't budge. Then I put the wheels under the car for an added measure. Not living in earthquake country, I guess I don't worry as much as you left coasters. I've been thinking about one of those scissor lifts since my garage is way too low for the two-post I really want.