toofast928

Started this winter project and I'm more than halfway. Haltech is a friendly EMS with great support. Offering 3D fuel maps and ignition maps, plus correction maps.
And enough outputs to control accessory's like: engine fans, stall saver, shift light, ect. ECU input control like knock control and A/C turn off at desired RPM/MAP level.
The reason why I'm converting is obvious to every L-Jet engine. To get rid of the intake restriction of the AFM, and for me to go to a larger injector. Also looking forward to controlling the timing, adding more advance without ruining the idle quality.
Haltech uses the same GM sensors that Megasquirt uses, makes things little easier. The cost of the Haltech is more than Megasquirt but much less than MoTec.

1. First thing to do is obtain an accurate RPM signal. With the blower crank pulley there is no room for additional tone ring. I chose to send the 1982 MTM flywheel to Mike S. and have him install a Motronic 60-2 tone ring.

2. My 5.0L hybrid block already has the hole for the “Reference Sensor” prt# 944.606.115.00. 4.5-4.7 block could be carefully drilled to accept the sensor.
a. Note: 85-86 block uses a sensor spacer. I made my own spacer by using four 5/8 flat washers, total spacer size .328” thick. Air gap sensor to tone wheel gap is .030” (Porsche spec is .031”)

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3. This became a surprise step. If you are working with a 78-82, the lower bell cover is shaped such that the new tone wheel will contact the boss for the upper slave cylinder bolt. I grinded 4mm and used a stud. Or you could locate a 1983 bell housing and 1983 slave cylinder.

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4. Preparation Steps and 36# Injectors Pintle Cap Conversion:

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Throttle Position Sensor and TB Adapter.

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This is another surprise step. Removing the casting in the plenum. The rear cylinders have to be getting 50 more CFM now! Also tapped the bottom floor of the plenum where this casting is molded. Best place to tap into "dead air" for the MAP Sensor.

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4 Wire O2 Sensor for closed loop.
Wide Band mounted in the other downpipe. Wide Band will output 0-5 volts to Haltech for datalogging only. (notice Roger's X-Pipe mounted on 16V)

BC

Great stuff tony. Your new injectors - no barbs. Are you changing the whole rail assembly from barb to something else or using conversion pieces?

Fabio421

Cool thread. Which Haltech did you get and how much was it?

Lizard928

Looks like a fun project!
It looks like I have another 928 (86 with 89 engine) to convert to MS in the very near future.

blau928

Tony,

Just trying to help, as so many have this mistake on their design of X pipes that have an ECU that uses 1 sensor on a V8.

The sensor needs to be in the middle of "X", or after it, or the sensor will not be able to read the gases on the opposite bank of cylinders.. This will give you false (incomplete) readings, and also if the cylinder bank that is not monitored by the active sensor is running erratically, you will not see it. Further, the wideband will monitor one bank, and give data records for that bank alone, and the other bank will be monitored by the 4 wire.

If you are using a dual Lambda capable ECU, then you can have one sensor per bank before the "X" as it is setup currently, as each sensor will monitor one bank of cylinders.. (MY MOTEC has this capability, not sure about your Haltech ECU)

I have not setup a Haltech, but if it has dual sensor capability, then use it for a much more accurate tuning and driving setup. Unless of course you will run in open loop all the time...

You should place both sensors in the middle of the "X", if using one for the ECU, and one to datalog. Then, you will have both the 4 wire, and the wideband giving you readings from the same source with readings from the entire engine..

Again, Sorry for the blabbing, just trying to help...

Cheers, and good luck with the setup..

mark kibort

you must have missed this step with the holbert car conversion to dual disc. older bell housing needed to be grinded down like you see, but you dont need to grind off the entire area, just angle the grind to get the casting out of the way of the timing ring.

nice job! Scot, Im sure, looking closely at this! we need to get him out of the Ljet AFM. I think there are kits around, and he should do that. we have all the physical parts we need, (air box from a euro, and an adapter tube to the Ljet inlet TB area.

thanks for posting

mk

BC

Oh, nevermind. I see the fuel rails. And now I remember the thread about them.

toofast928

Thanks for the support guys. Now continuing with step 4, hardware installation. This is the #1 reason converting to Haltech. AFM vs MAP sensor system.

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The throttle body U received a-lot of attention. Needed a way to attach blower tubing to the engine. Also welding the tube to the U gets rid of one o-ring. Notice the Air Temp Sensor.

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Knock Sensor and Knock Sensor Spark Box. Spark Box conveys to Haltech knock is occurring. Haltech retards timing, amount of degrees and recovery to what I input.