928fan4life

What is the best way to store the bottom end of an engine for long periods of time? I have a rebuilt bottom end of an engine (no heads or cam towers on it yet) just new seals and piston rings. I probably won't get to put it into a car for another 8 - 18 months as other projects have come up. Should I be cranking it over manually so the pistons don't sit in one specific position for too long of time?

Mrmerlin

add some 30 wt oil to each bore and crank them slowly,
cover the cylinders so dirt wont fall into the bores

928fan4life

cool, thanks for the info. I have the whole engine block covered in a garbage bag so dirt dosent get into it.

FBIII

Good idea with the gargage bag. But I would also try and place it in an area that is the driest and least humid. It would probably be a good idea to keep it off the floor.

Speedtoys

I use these for my things that I wanna keep dry.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...o?code=FROOGLE

Bag it, toss in a packet, seal it.

I keep em in the car(s) as well during winters here.

Andy E.

If your 8-18 months eventually become 8-10 years, you should definitely consider using a more stabile gel-like solvent-based inhibitor such as cosmoline or other similar chemicals.

928fan4life

What is cosmoline and where can it be bought?

I have the engine block stored on the engine stand. The winters are cold and dry but come spring I will remove the garbage bag and wrap it in one of the breathable car covers so no moisture can build up.

RKD in OKC

What I would do...
Wrap it air tight in 4mil plastic, thicker and more durable than a garbage bag. Toss in one of those desiccant packets. Seal it up with that clear box tape. Make sure as little air as possible. The less air the less water to muss things up and mess with the oil that should be already coating things. Store so the bag does not get punctured.

Should be fine for a very long time like that. Any other coatings or extra oil will just be more difficult to clean up when un-bagged. You don't want it to breath, water in the air is your enemy.

dr bob

Marine engines here get a thorough spray with a marine preservative like CRC 6-56 (IIRC), available from boat stores. Spray it all over in and out, bag it with a vapor-tight bag, and add a few --dried-- dessicant bags inside. (dessicants absorb moisture as soon as they are exposed to air, so either barnd new opnes or bags you've baked in your electric oven or toaster oven for a day to get them dried out again. Gas ovens sometimes seem to add moisture, at least where I live.

Vapor-tight bags are used when fumigating houses, and are also sold as "drum liners" at janitorial supply stores. Drum liners are a lot thicker, making them more durable but harder to keep sealed. Use strong plastic tape to gather the ends of the bag, and then actually seal the ends/edges with the same tape. Most regular trash bags are far from moisture- or vapor-proof long term, in spite of what the TV ads show.

backnblack

I have used this stuff in the past and it work pretty well.
http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com...06.html?ref=42


Cheers
Matt