jwillman

The AC compressor belt was not installed when I got the car. I have since pulled the compressor as it was a greasy mess. So here is my current state:

1. Top rigid line on condensor broke off at the condensor and is still attached to the line connected to the compressor. System had no pressure before removing line and compressor

2. Wiring harness on top of engine that connects the throttle switch to the compressor clutch is missing- new one coming from Roger.

3. HVAC control switches loose - new switches on order.

4. Blower works on all speeds when lower switch is in defroster position. Air comes out of center vents and defroster vents at same time.

5. No fan control in any other vent position.

I read Wally P's HVAC guide but don't find these symptoms

I have another compressor in a spare parts box that came with the car.

Big question is do I replace using R134 or stick with R12. I know I need toi replace receiver dryer and other bits and from what i have read choice of orings is freon dependant.

I will post some pictures once I figure out what model compressor came off and what I have in the box. I also need to test the clutch.

Thanks in advance!!

Erik N

Propane

blown 87

Do not put Propane in your car, only Lump charcoal will give it the real deal.

Flush it out VERY well, use new parts, not a old compressor, put a big vacuum pump on it, with fresh oil in the vacuum pump, let it run for 20 hours or so.

Take it all back apart and flush with Wurht bulk break cleaner, use at least half a gallon, repeat the vacuum, then charge with oil and fill with R12.

If it is a rear ac car, you need to make sure the rear valve is open when you flush and pull vacuum.

Good luck.

tmpusfugit

Jim, those are the symptoms for a bad blower relay. (XXI) IIRC

Tom in Austin

Isn't the issue on R134a changeover permeability of the hoses? People talk about 'barrier hoses' being used with the new refrigerant.

Maybe the worst case keeping the existing hoses is just having to add more 134a from time to time?

dprantl

The HBNR green o-rings will work with R12 and R134a, so you can put those in regardless of which refrigerant you choose.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

hacker-pschorr

Considering r134 is now being phased out (at least in Europe), why would you change to it?

dprantl

I would think because R134a is still cheap and readily available. HFO-1234yf is not, at least not that I know of around here. R12 is 3 times as expensive as R134a and can be a pain to locate/buy lately.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

hacker-pschorr

If the system is fully functional (free from leaks) that shouldn't be an issue. It's not like you have to fill it up on a regular basis like gas.

Considering some of the issues coming about about r134, IMO it's a crazy idea to voluntarily switch.

txhokie4life

Mount Piezo Electrics on your headliner with solar cells on roof -- as the sun scorches, use the
solar energy. one side hotter than hades -- the other side is cooled.

M

blown 87

Some of the trade rags are saying the replacement for 134a is going to be 100/lb and will only be sold in 30 LB containers.

I hope this is one of the don't believe what you read things.

andy-gts

all these changes for good of the environment.......one volcano spewing does more ozone damage than all the cars on the road for 10 yrs (1990 -2000) in the world....

whats that saying ......figures do lie and liars do figure...

andy

blown 87

They should have added "politicians profit" to that statement.

SeanR

The price of 134a has almost tripled around here since last year. I actually purchased R-12 cheaper than I got 134a for last month. Glad I stocked up on it.

jwillman

I have not seen such debate since the last motor oil thread.

Thanks for the input.

I swapped relays but had no change in the fan operating only in defroster position. I do have full range of control, hi to low fan though!

The pics below are of the compressor that came off the car, Bosch and the other of a different stlye compressor and what looks to be an 1980+ compressor bracket.

The Bosch compressor pully will not spin but the spare compressor spins freely with no noise. Not sure if the Bosch should spin or if it indicates a problem with the clutch.

So I assume my current lines should be rebuilt but would the fittings be compatable with the spare compressor? All comments welcome. Let me rephrase, most suggestions will be welcome!

Thanks