Jchiodi

mike, me too on that pic! Somehow during my refresh, I've ended up with a hose, I can't remember where I pulled it from, and the par number says its a power steering hose!

it has a one way valve athe end of it, (PVC?), but I think I have all the other hoses done right. I'll take a pic of it, and how I have the oil breather lines tomorrow and post em.

Jc

Leon Speed

Today I removed the radiator and inspected the TB. So easy to write down, takes a long time doing it for the the first time.

I wanted to remove the radiator in order to clean it and clean between the radiator and A/C condensor. Was a little worried about causing leaks to the oil and ATF fittings. I did manage to turn the lower right (ATF) coupler a few degrees before the hose came loose, so I have to check if it caused a leak. The lower ATF hose swivels so need to be rebuilt. The upper ATF hose doens't swivel but seems awfully soft.

Removing the radiator however was well worth it. Tons of debris and leaves fell out from the radiator and from between the radiator and the A/C condensor. I also noted that the engine oil from the radiator and hoses looks pretty dark and somewhat sludgy. I refreshed the oil earlier this year, but it seems this is old oil.

After removing the radiator








Radiator mystery





The timing belt looks ok, I measured the tension at exactly the upper edge of the Kempf tool. I measured as far towards the middle as I could and noted that measuring at one or two teeth towards the cam gear sends the indicator out of the window. The belt was retensioned after 3k KM four years ago, the Porsche mechanic told me he set the tension at 5.25 (I nodded as if I knew what he was talking about but had no clue ).

I measured the timing at +1 degree advance for 1-4m and + 2 degrees for 5-8. I have no idea what advancing the timing does for performance, but there it is. First time I use Ken's nifty tool and I must say it is so easy to use, it's brilliant.

Checking tension







Checking timing










I installed the flywheel lock tool (thanks Schocki for the loaner!) and tried to free the crank bolt, but no go. I will need more leverage but I'm afraid to break something. Continued tomorrow.

No immediate questions, other than: am I doing it right? See anything I didn't notice?

NoVector

Aryan - Good job pulling the radiator, in addition to cleaning out all the crap, it will give you more room to work later when you do the water pump and stuff.

Before you really lean on the breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt, for the flywheel lock, use longer bolts than ones that hold the cover. You will want to use longer bolts to compensate for the thickness of the lock. If you don't and it strips the threads AND comes out... it would be more *** pain than I can imagine

Hard to tell but looks like you will also need to replace your front main seal and oil pump seal as it looks like you have a leak somewhere up ther. It's in Dwayne's (excellent) write up--not hard to do at all.

Hate to ask becuase of the other cam gear thread, but how do your gears look?

jeff spahn

If you can get a 3/4" drive impact gun in there your crank bolt with come right off. If not, get a 6' length of pipe to put over your 3/4" breaker bar. I used my low profile racing jack's handle. Was perfect. Remember to put some anti seize on the end of the crank before you slide the harmonic balancer on to make it come off easier the next time. Also be sure to put it on the right way and not backwards (lots of people have done this.) Before you take it off, make the outside "out". Clean it really well while you have it off so the numbers are easier to see also.

Leon Speed

Bruce, I came prepared with longer bolts for the fly wheel lock. I didn't come prepared for the crank bolt though, I only have an 1/2 breaker bar. Need to take a trip to the store. I was plannimg on replacing the main seal and oil pump seal, but the leak you see (kind of hard to see in the pics, it's a dark garage in the winter) is the tensioner. I tried to refresh the tensioner oil this summer and was happy to see it took oil, only to mop up a fair amount from the floor later. The gears look ok but under a flash they look like bare metal. I have to get them out in daylight to be sure, but I assume they're done, ka-ching!

Jeff, thanks for the pointers. Didn't think about the anti-seize but it's a good idea. Did you put some on the crank bolt as well? Getting a 3/4 now, time to bust a bolt.

Leon Speed

Well, that was short. Two stores and no 3/4 available. Need to order one online.

Bilal928S4

Just use a 1/2" with a long cheater bar, it will work fine.
Bilal

NoVector

^^^ +1 The worst that can happen is you'll bust your extension. Trust me, I'm the king. My record is 5 in one evening on a rear axle nut

jeff spahn

I put a little bit of antisieze on the crank bolt after I cleaned it in my ultrasonic cleaner. Wanted just a bit for thread lubrication and exact torque value. I got within 3 ft lbs. Close enough.
Since you are there. Get rid of the tensioner and get a porkensioner. Peace of mind.

Leon Speed

Too late, 3/4 on the way

Good to know about the anti-seize.

T_MaX

1/2 in. drive with a 1 1/8 box end wrench as a cheater bar worked for me.

Leon Speed

Well, 5 seconds with a 3/4 ratchet and and extension pipe, and it was off. A/C pulley and balancer came off easily.

I think I found a bigger problem











The small roller spins freely, the large roller stops spinning after half a revolution.

Furthermore, a bolt is missing from the tensioner, one is missing from the water pump and somebody broke the mount for the lower bolt on the left TB cover. What is it with people??

On the upside, the water pump pulley is nice and tight, and no scraping sounds or feel. The belt looks very good as well.

Question: is the wire for the tension warning system original or is it home made?

Mrmerlin

the wire looks original,
I think you may be missing the washer for the tensioner spring use the PET to put the correct parts together ,
you aLso need new pivot bushings as the roller isnt looking like it should

Leon Speed

Thanks Stan, I vaguely remember reading about that washer commonly missing. What do you mean by it isn't looking as it should? How should it look? Thanks.

Mike Frye

Pic of '85 engine

Sorry, this is the only one I've got and I had to hack it together because it was too big to scan in one piece too.

Not very good for what you might need.