Leon Speed

This winter I will be doing a TB refresh, top-end refresh and install Dave's Shark Vent. Hope I don't mix up the parts

When I bought the car in 2007 the TB was renewed. The top-end, no clue, could be original.

The plan is to tear down the front first, to see what parts I need for the TB refresh and order them. Then on to the top end refresh, already have those parts. Install the Shark Vent, then do the TB and button things back up. Hopefully in time for the new driving season.

This is my first time, so bear with me. Progress will be slow because I will be doing this between work and family.

In this thread I will post my findings and questions. Here are the first ones.

Start


Air pump and A/C


Engine harness


TB right



So, my questions:

How do I know when the radiator hoses are done? Mine look (and feel) pretty good.

I noticed in Dwayne's thread the A/C tensioner bracket sits behind the air pump tensioner bracket where it attaches to the block. On mine it is the other way around. Which is correct?
Also, when I removed the bolt, two threads from the block were wrapped around the bolt. I tried to screw the bolt back in to the block, but it didn't grab easily. Should I chase the threads with a tap? Anyone know the thread and pitch?

The engine harness is resting on the air pump, which causes the harness to rub on the pulley. How is the engine harness routed from factory?

The TB runs pretty close to the front of the driver side sprocket. From other pics here on Rennlist it seems the belt mostly runs close(r) to the front. Is mine in line with normal or is it too much to the front?

Bertrand Daoust

Take your time and everything will go well.

1) Radiator hoses: If they look and fell good I would not change them.
2) Can't help you on the brackets right now. Don't remember. I would need to go to the garage and have a look. I'm sure others will know that.
3) Yes re-thread it with a tap. Don't know the size unfortunately.
4) The engine harness is suppose to be attached to the support that holds the spark plugs wires. We can see it at the right in your third picture.
5) I would say that this is normal. If I remember well , mine was about where your's is.

While you're there, clean everything around.

Good luck.

Bertrand Daoust

Just notice that the harness is attached to the bracket. Maybe the harness is a bit to mutch to the left.
Just loose it and move it to the right a little bit.

Herman K

The bolt #9 is M8 x 22 (long) if the AC belt has been adjusted in the past the bolt by accident can get exchanged for the shorter ones that hold the ac bracket and threads get stripped out like you found on your bolt.

Make sure the right length bolt 22mm gets in there

Herman K

In this drawing it's #17 and 8 that may have been exchanged

Bertrand Daoust

Maybe this photo will help a little bit.

Mrmerlin

for your radiator and other cooling hoses look carefully at the insides where they connect to the water bridge,
all of the outlets have a small pin that sticks up this is to prevent the hose from slipping off the outlets look for damage to the hose internals from this pin if the hoses are soft then get new hoses.

The timing belt needs to have new pivot bushings installed on the tensioner pivot bolt, thats why it is running close to the front edge of the pulley, also replace the water pump with a new Laso pump.

The lower anchor point for the AC /air pump will probably need to have a medium depth timecert installed,
if you pulled out the bolt and it had threads then the hole is probably going to fail.

NOTE as an aside to drilling, instead you can get a longer threaded bolt cut off the head and double nut the remaining threads,
then clean out the hole with acetone then clean the threads then use JB weld and put the threaded bolt into the hole with the JB weld and let it cure,
then you will have a stud to bolt the brackets to and they will be secured with a nut and washer dont overtighten the nut or it will pull out of the boss make sure that you have enough threads to put on both brackets and finish off with a nut and washer, I have made this repair a few times and it works , drilling a new hole would really be a last resort as there isnt much metal to work with.

The engine harness will need to be run under the right hand timing cover and just above the air pump then fixed with a clamp to the top of the lifting hook then fed to the hot post connector

Bertrand Daoust

Just took a look at both brakets on my car and the A/C tensioner bracket sits in front of the air pump tensioner bracket just like yours. It would be hard to reverse this without bending the air pump bracket.

Leon Speed

Betrand, thanks for the insight and the pic. Great for reference! It shows the engine harness zip-tied to the air pump bracket. Also, thanks for confirming the bracket positions. I found a pic in the WSM as well showing this to be the correct way.

Herman, the bolt is a 22 mm. PET is a bit confusing since on the page for the air pump it shows a M8x22 mm bolt, and on the page for the A/C it shows a M8x28 mm. I don't get what you're saying in your second post - the pivot bolt is an M10 and the bracket bolt an M8?

Mrmerlin, thanks for the many pointers. The hoses are not soft, but seem to be original with signs of wear. The timing belt was done four years ago together with rollers but no reference to bushings in the receipts. I find out how it looks soon. Regarding the anchor point for the A/C and air pump brackets, two threads came out. If the bolt has a 1.25 mm pitch than there is 2.5 mm of thread missing. I measured the depth of the bolt hole and it is 24 mm. Both brackets are 6 mm, so a 22mm bolt only uses 12 mm of 24 mm available. So a longer bolt should work as well right?

NoVector

Aryan - Will you be rebuilding the stock tensioner or swaping to the Porkensioner? If you were considering the Porkensioner, now's the perfect time to do it--and you can save at least 2 euro by not buying the roller bushing

Tried to look at your link to see more pictures, but the album requires a password(?)

Good luck!

Leon Speed

Bruce, I will be rebuilding the stock tensioner as I prefer to have a tension warning system. I know, don't need one with the porkensioner

Thanks for the heads up on the pictures, it should work now.

PC-85-928S

anyone have an engine pic like that for an 85?

Mrmerlin

Aryan if you can thread a bolt into the AC bracket hole all the way then there is a chance the hole will take a bolt..
BUT since threads have come out it will be a weaker connection.

I would at this point get a longer threaded bolt , cut off the head and JB weld it into the girdle hole, this way you will have used the max bolt threads and made the stud as strong as possible with no further thread damage

Landseer

sorta

Mike Frye

I've got one from the front. Let me scan it and post it tomorrow (in a new thread)