Stuff to make for the 928? TIG welding?
12-17-2011, 09:49 AM
#46
a bud here at the Sandi Labs gave me some Inconel and a few scraps of Ti.... wow.... thats some wicked stuff. very VERY finicky.
I got the Lincoln due to the Dynasty millers being a billion dollars. i learned on the 350 at school and loved the millers, but i was spoiled with water cooling and an small torch head. so i found this Lincoln 225 and added a water cooler, very nice set up.
I got the Lincoln due to the Dynasty millers being a billion dollars. i learned on the 350 at school and loved the millers, but i was spoiled with water cooling and an small torch head. so i found this Lincoln 225 and added a water cooler, very nice set up.
12-17-2011, 10:30 AM
#47
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I agree that Miller has a stellar reputation, but they are really expensive.
I am not ready to even think about a hand control, plus they are expensive.
I am not ready to even think about a hand control, plus they are expensive.
While you are learning, set the balance to 55% penetration, 45% cleaning. This will give you a nicer looking weld with less skillz.
The 250DX is still a very good machine, and stay with Miller, they are WAY better IMO.
Dont be afraid to crank it up, and then just vary it with the pedal after. Its better to pound the heat in FAST and get it fully up to temp and then back off (not easy with hand controls).
And so many people focus on the stacked dimes look, but as you seem to already know, it is NOT important at all. Focus on a strong weld first. Then focus on making it look how you want.
Ducman,
have you tried to weld inconel yet? How does it compare to Ti? I have to get some Magnesium filler rod for trying to weld it. But I find aluminium a breeze (easier than thin stainless!).
The 250DX is still a very good machine, and stay with Miller, they are WAY better IMO.
Dont be afraid to crank it up, and then just vary it with the pedal after. Its better to pound the heat in FAST and get it fully up to temp and then back off (not easy with hand controls).
And so many people focus on the stacked dimes look, but as you seem to already know, it is NOT important at all. Focus on a strong weld first. Then focus on making it look how you want.
Ducman,
have you tried to weld inconel yet? How does it compare to Ti? I have to get some Magnesium filler rod for trying to weld it. But I find aluminium a breeze (easier than thin stainless!).
12-17-2011, 11:46 AM
#52
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I also grind my tungsten for aluminum, which some say is a no-no, and others say do it on a non inverter machine, but for me is sure seems to help.
I am using a 1/16 thoriated tungsten,, with a pointed and flatened end.
I want to get some 2.5-3 inch SS pipe to try, what thickness is normal for exhaust on a 928?
The pulser should help on that.
I have welded some .050 thick SS and it welds so good, not much of a issue doing that.
As a side note, one of the things I had to do when getting my aircraft mechanics license was gas weld chrome molly tubing (not that hard) and gas weld aluminum, very, very hard for me to do.
Glad I do not have to do that again.
I am using a 1/16 thoriated tungsten,, with a pointed and flatened end.
I want to get some 2.5-3 inch SS pipe to try, what thickness is normal for exhaust on a 928?
The pulser should help on that.
I have welded some .050 thick SS and it welds so good, not much of a issue doing that.
As a side note, one of the things I had to do when getting my aircraft mechanics license was gas weld chrome molly tubing (not that hard) and gas weld aluminum, very, very hard for me to do.
Glad I do not have to do that again.
12-17-2011, 11:49 AM
#53
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We have blue laws here in Georgia, being smack in the middle of the Bible belt, so I have some cans of beer for a Sunday in case I run out of bottles.
As a side note, they finally let the people vote on
Sunday sales, so in a year or so that will not be a problem any more.
12-17-2011, 11:49 AM
#54
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To me the hand control is tough to use but sometimes you are welding in a position that doesn't lend itself to a foot pedal. In those positions a finger control may be the best solution. If you do decide to go w/ hand controls at some point, look at the ones that use a large "track style" control instead of the small dial. It's alot easier to manipulate the track style with gloves on.
Last edited by Fabio421; 12-18-2011 at 08:32 PM.
12-17-2011, 12:45 PM
#57
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I also grind my tungsten for aluminum, which some say is a no-no, and others say do it on a non inverter machine, but for me is sure seems to help.
I am using a 1/16 thoriated tungsten,, with a pointed and flatened end.
I want to get some 2.5-3 inch SS pipe to try, what thickness is normal for exhaust on a 928?
The pulser should help on that.
I have welded some .050 thick SS and it welds so good, not much of a issue doing that.
I am using a 1/16 thoriated tungsten,, with a pointed and flatened end.
I want to get some 2.5-3 inch SS pipe to try, what thickness is normal for exhaust on a 928?
The pulser should help on that.
I have welded some .050 thick SS and it welds so good, not much of a issue doing that.
I prefer a 1/8" Tungsten myself. Also grinding is fine to sharpen the tungsten, but DONT flatten it. Leave it as sharp as possible, for all metals! If a ball forms when welding DC that is fine, but dont focus on the size of the ball, if it remains small (high penetration vs cleaning), that is fine. If it grows much larger than the tungsten rod itself start again or you risk it falling into your weld, that is not fun! When it comes to grinding the tungsten though, make sure the lines run parallel to the tungsten rod, not perpendicular!
And use the 2% Thoriated for everything. If you change from aluminium to steel just remove the ball off the end. If you go from steel to aluminium, you dont need to do anything. Forget the pure tungsten for aluminium its garbage.
If you want more penetration with aluminium use a argon helium mix.
Yes Millers are more money, but after having used Lincolns, I would save the extra money and buy the miller! That is why I have a Synchrowave 350LX. And yes the liquid cooled torch is a god send!!!! I want an inverter machine, but when I get one, it will be liquid cooled, and it WILL be miller.
12-17-2011, 01:40 PM
#58
If Greg doesn't mind- I have a question- are Hobart as good as miller for thier units? Mig or tig?
12-17-2011, 05:28 PM
#60
i have always had better luck with pure (green) with Aluminum. right now I'm playing with a cerated (orange) for stainless. i can't wait to do a full stainless exhaust. just need to find a local shop that will sell me the pipe.