PC-85-928S

Can anyone describe a Volvo engine mount install on an 85 with engine out?

namasgt

Bolt the motor mount assembly to the engine block (4 bolts for each mount), but slightly loose. Then lower the engine until the bottom motor mount bolt (stud) touch the top of the cross member. You don't want to drop the engine completely on the cross member, you want to be able to wiggle it from under nit. Go under the car and try to guide the bolt into the hole in the cross member.

Ducman82

BINGO ^^^^^^^^

jeff spahn

I am such a retard. When I had my engine out I couldn't get the engine to go over the mounts. I ended up dropping the crossmember. Never occurred to me to put the mounts on the engine and then lower onto the crossmember. Gads!

davek9

Yep, you can't really anything until it all settles down, maybe good idea to loosen and retighten the two nuts to the cross member after x # of miles.
Just a thought

PC-85-928S

Does the Volvo specific hardware = bolts?
Anyone know the size?

Ducman82

the ones i got from roger came with nuts and washers

Vilhuer

Ones I have came with M10 nylocs instead of M12 all metal locknuts in original factory mounts.

dr bob

Doing the mounts on the Kelanel car last weekend, we tightened the top studs into the engine brackets first. I used the impact for this step to get into the lockwasher some, followed by the torque wrench for final tightening. Then the bottoms were set a little loose in the crossmember so there was a little wiggle room, still snug enough to keep the lower finger plate indexed on the locating pin on the mount itself. Then engine brackets bolted up carefully, crossmember set in place and bolted, and finally tightened the lower nuts.

With the engine out of the car, mounting the top brackets to the engine will work, but the lower finger plates will need to be fitted with the bottom mount studs just above the crossmember, or maybe taped or zip-tied to the mount in advance of lowering the engine onto the crossmember. There will be fingers in potential pinch points going in this way, something I'm not a big fan of.

x98boardwell

Great write up and easy to picture doing it.

On that note, anyone have pictures of them doing any of these things for guidance?

The crappy part is I have to lower the rack to gain access to the lower bolts on the MM, I was hoping with the motor out I wouldn't have to loosen anything else. I will try and put them on the motor I'm guessing unless others have mounted them back on the cross member and done it that way.

Thanks for any insight that you may have!

Cheers,
Bryan

Mrmerlin

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...vo+motor+mount

x98boardwell

I read through that entire thread, it was very helpful but other than your pictures with the cross member out I didn't have many other references. So, that's why I asked on this one. Can't have too many photos... tackling this one in the morning. I already have the Volvo mounts from Rog

Wisconsin Joe

Dwayne's writeup?

Tons and tons of pics.

http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/MotorMounts.htm

x98boardwell

Thanks. Since the motor was out it was pretty easy. I did decide to put them back on the car. There is some movement and shouldn't be too hard to get he bolts in once the motor is back in.

SRaouf

Thanks for this. Helped a lot when putting my engine back in with the volvo mounts this week with a few embelishments;
- I also kept the mount top nuts loose until everything was slotted in place
- I used duct tape to hold the finger plates to the mounts rather than lose a finger as my girlfriend was in charge of raising/lowering the engine crane. I also had to bend the finger plate hooks a bit as I think the volvo mount is larger than stock.
- When I first slotted the motor mounts into the cross member the back of the engine was still too high to mate with the bell housing. however before tightening the top nut placing a jack under the front of the engine and raising it slightly allows the engine to pivot on the motor mounts. By making small adjustments to both the engine pivot angle and the height of the bellhousing/torque tube I was able get them roughly to the same height.
- to get the bellhousing to mate fully with the engine I used the bottom bellhousing bolt holes. Do not be tempted to use the M12 bolts to line the drivetrain up as you risk stripping the aluminium threads. Instead I used a smaller dia M8 threaded rod with nuts on each end to push the bellhousing towards the engine. As M8 is smaller than the hole it allows allows the bellhousing to move a bit and align properly
- With everything aligned I only then tightened all the nuts. Engine sits rather high (The bonnet only just clears the oil filler cap) but Im hoping it will settle a bit over the next few days