s4 engine removal/bearings
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Racer
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s4 engine removal/bearings
87 s4 auto. i have read many of the threads here, looking for thread that discusses engine removal step/step guides and replacement of bearings.
after talking to merlin, it appears that i need to remove my engine and put it on a stand to replace main bearings. i have crankendplay out of spec. i get about 1mm of movement clunk to clunk.
i was in the mist of replacing hoses, timing belt etc when i put off removal of rusty exhaust bolts. when i finally got to the crank endplay, found a bowed flexplate.
found very fine barbs on oil drain plug.
i can turn engine by hand no problem.
when doing endplay check, flexplate still slightly bowed after several days and bolt removed, 8mm spline is showing. before removal of bolt 10.5mm showed.
after talking to merlin, it appears that i need to remove my engine and put it on a stand to replace main bearings. i have crankendplay out of spec. i get about 1mm of movement clunk to clunk.
i was in the mist of replacing hoses, timing belt etc when i put off removal of rusty exhaust bolts. when i finally got to the crank endplay, found a bowed flexplate.
found very fine barbs on oil drain plug.
i can turn engine by hand no problem.
when doing endplay check, flexplate still slightly bowed after several days and bolt removed, 8mm spline is showing. before removal of bolt 10.5mm showed.
#3
Your best bet would be to get the work shop manuals and follow those directions.
#4
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additional note...when you all are measuring endplay, .4mm is very minimal to the eye, i.e. almost no movement at all. that is the reason for the dial measure. when i pry my flywheel fore and aft, i can measure the movement by using a caliper, and it is about 1mm of movement.
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additional note...when you all are measuring endplay, .4mm is very minimal to the eye, i.e. almost no movement at all. that is the reason for the dial measure. when i pry my flywheel fore and aft, i can measure the movement by using a caliper, and it is about 1mm of movement.
So are you using a dial micrometer or a caliper? If you are using a caliper, you cannot rely on it. You really need to use a dial micrometer. but if Stan says it's out of spec, then it is.
Here is my short how-to guide on pulling a motor.
1. Disconnect ground strap in rear
2. Remove hood
3. Disconnect everything from the engine
4. Order pizza and beer and invite friends over to help pull the motor
5. Pull engine
6. Installation is in reverse.
#6
Race Car
huh?
So are you using a dial micrometer or a caliper? If you are using a caliper, you cannot rely on it. You really need to use a dial micrometer. but if Stan says it's out of spec, then it is.
Here is my short how-to guide on pulling a motor.
1. Disconnect ground strap in rear
2. Remove hood
3. Disconnect everything from the engine
4. Order pizza and beer and invite friends over to help pull the motor
5. Pull engine
6. Installation is in reverse.
So are you using a dial micrometer or a caliper? If you are using a caliper, you cannot rely on it. You really need to use a dial micrometer. but if Stan says it's out of spec, then it is.
Here is my short how-to guide on pulling a motor.
1. Disconnect ground strap in rear
2. Remove hood
3. Disconnect everything from the engine
4. Order pizza and beer and invite friends over to help pull the motor
5. Pull engine
6. Installation is in reverse.
#7
Racer
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s4 engine removal /bearings
understood. i guess my main question, besides disconnecting everything are some tips and tricks.
for example, tie up points and what people have used to balance engine, removal from bellhousing/tt, someone wrote that there is one cable to watch out for that you can only see after you lift the engine several mm.
how the engine mounts are set up are there any bolts to disconnect on the mounts.
so some remove a/c or other pulleys for clearance issues?
these are the type of advice i was hopeful to get from guys that have pulled these engines before.....thanks.
for example, tie up points and what people have used to balance engine, removal from bellhousing/tt, someone wrote that there is one cable to watch out for that you can only see after you lift the engine several mm.
how the engine mounts are set up are there any bolts to disconnect on the mounts.
so some remove a/c or other pulleys for clearance issues?
these are the type of advice i was hopeful to get from guys that have pulled these engines before.....thanks.
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#10
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I pulled my radiator and it gave a lot of extra room to work with.
No need to balance anything. Disconnect the upper bellhousing bolts (toughest to get at, but doable with a box-wrench). There are a couple of bolts tied to the motor mounts.
Also, Contrary to the WSM, don't pull the fuel injection harness. Instead, disconnect from the injectors and lay it up on the windshield. Use wipers to hold it in place. Front harness can come out with the engine (I think).
That's about it. Oh... there is a vacuum line on the automatics that can hang things up. It snakes along the upper bellhousing if memory serves.
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What he said about the crank bolt, especially if you have the special tool. MUCH easier this way then with the motor on a stand. I found that out the hard way.
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s4 engine removal/bearings
special tool for crankbolt? i have a flywheel lock if thats what you are referring to, i tought just a 1 1/16" wrench or 27mm will do for the crankbolt.
so i assume all belts stay on, so timing is not an issue. timing belt stays on and cams are in sync with belt.
removing tt from flywheel is just the flex plate bolts, and i guess there are some sensors up there. in order to get to the motor mount bolts, does anything have to be taken off down below, i.e. drop rack etc?
so i assume all belts stay on, so timing is not an issue. timing belt stays on and cams are in sync with belt.
removing tt from flywheel is just the flex plate bolts, and i guess there are some sensors up there. in order to get to the motor mount bolts, does anything have to be taken off down below, i.e. drop rack etc?
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anyone remove the girdle and main bearings? i have read on this forum that very hard to do with engine in car, although one mech did it in canada, although he might be very experienced and most are not. wonder what is involved with actually opening up the oil pan and girdle and replacing the bearings...thrust bearings etc