fuel injectors not pulsing Starved for fuel I have fuel pressure
12-27-2012, 07:54 PM
#31
I do get some power to the OTHER two terminals on the injector relay with the key on.
I do not see any panel plug X , but all the connections on the CE seem in place, which one is X?
I do not see any panel plug X , but all the connections on the CE seem in place, which one is X?
12-27-2012, 08:08 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
I think last one on right of row of plugs along bottom of CE
It should have magic marker X label on side. Those electrodes need to be seated well
It should have magic marker X label on side. Those electrodes need to be seated well
12-27-2012, 08:41 PM
#35
I see three sensors in or around the water bridge.
1. Temp II sits directly on top of the water bridge
2. Another one directly to the left of the temp II
2. Another one directly behind the temp II
1. Temp II sits directly on top of the water bridge
2. Another one directly to the left of the temp II
2. Another one directly behind the temp II
12-27-2012, 11:01 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
Test figures.
Gotta have good contact with the electrodes.
The CD set and WSM has lots of troubleshooting info, where this came from.
Describes what this switch does.
Another thing that can go wrong is short in one injector wire boot, which takes all out.
No shortage of other potential causes, but this is one possibility.
Gotta have good contact with the electrodes.
The CD set and WSM has lots of troubleshooting info, where this came from.
Describes what this switch does.
Another thing that can go wrong is short in one injector wire boot, which takes all out.
No shortage of other potential causes, but this is one possibility.
12-28-2012, 01:02 PM
#38
Tested Thermo Time this morning. Terminal to ground on both sides of the sensor yield 0.00 (it jumps at first, then settles to 0.00)
Terminal to Terminal yields 0.00 with no movement at all.
Would this cause my start and stumble and die ?
Terminal to Terminal yields 0.00 with no movement at all.
Would this cause my start and stumble and die ?
12-28-2012, 07:15 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
If the electric coil inside the thermotime fails, then the injector can flood the engine according to LJet info in CD set. There is a very good description of the innards of the thermotime switch in that docment.
So, with no voltage(edit: resistance) terminal to terminal, you know thermotime must be replaced, whether the total root cause or not. This is a common issue. When mine caused no starts, I didn't have noid light against which to determine if other 8 injectors where somehow interupted, so I can't confirm. LJet has some cool little features according to what I read, but not sure about this. There are some interupt features for safety in accident that, pure speculation here, that might be triggered by a failed start. Our experts here concentrate on LH Jet, and I"ve found scarce references to actual LJet operation in archives, so we are on our own here.
Regardless, order the temp time if you believe the terminal to terminal open ohm value.
Did you find X plug to check injector feed wires at the CE panel.? I check for corrosion, then replug, then press each individual electrode into place using a mechanics pick.
Am also wondering about your ground under the air valve, possibility of big vac leak, and possible short in injector boots (which will take them all out). Also possible short or disconnection of AFM.
The history of car stalling with removal of foot from gas pedal is also concerning.
Next time you try starting it, put something like a length of heater hose in AFM barn door to hold it open.
Jumper ignition relay and see what you get.
Sorry to not be definitive. I've trial-errored, along with moderate reading, but haven't mapped all issues and reactions of the system.
So, with no voltage(edit: resistance) terminal to terminal, you know thermotime must be replaced, whether the total root cause or not. This is a common issue. When mine caused no starts, I didn't have noid light against which to determine if other 8 injectors where somehow interupted, so I can't confirm. LJet has some cool little features according to what I read, but not sure about this. There are some interupt features for safety in accident that, pure speculation here, that might be triggered by a failed start. Our experts here concentrate on LH Jet, and I"ve found scarce references to actual LJet operation in archives, so we are on our own here.
Regardless, order the temp time if you believe the terminal to terminal open ohm value.
Did you find X plug to check injector feed wires at the CE panel.? I check for corrosion, then replug, then press each individual electrode into place using a mechanics pick.
Am also wondering about your ground under the air valve, possibility of big vac leak, and possible short in injector boots (which will take them all out). Also possible short or disconnection of AFM.
The history of car stalling with removal of foot from gas pedal is also concerning.
Next time you try starting it, put something like a length of heater hose in AFM barn door to hold it open.
Jumper ignition relay and see what you get.
Sorry to not be definitive. I've trial-errored, along with moderate reading, but haven't mapped all issues and reactions of the system.
Last edited by Landseer; 12-29-2012 at 06:20 AM.
12-28-2012, 08:14 PM
#40
If the electric coil inside the thermotime fails, then the injector can flood the engine according to LJet info in CD set. There is a very good description of the innards of the thermotime switch in that docment.
So, with no voltage terminal to terminal, you know thermotime must be replaced, whether the total root cause or not. This is a common issue. When mine caused no starts, I didn't have noid light against which to determine if other 8 injectors where somehow interupted, so I can't confirm. LJet has some cool little features according to what I read, but not sure about this. There are some interupt features for safety in accident that, pure speculation here, that might be triggered by a failed start. Our experts here concentrate on LH Jet, and I"ve found scarce references to actual LJet operation in archives, so we are on our own here.
Regardless, order the temp time if you believe the terminal to terminal open ohm value.
Did you find X plug to check injector feed wires at the CE panel.? I check for corrosion, then replug, then press each individual electrode into place using a mechanics pick.
Am also wondering about your ground under the air valve, possibility of big vac leak, and possible short in injector boots (which will take them all out). Also possible short or disconnection of AFM.
The history of car stalling with removal of foot from gas pedal is also concerning.
Next time you try starting it, put something like a length of heater hose in AFM barn door to hold it open.
Jumper ignition relay and see what you get.
Sorry to not be definitive. I've trial-errored, along with moderate reading, but haven't mapped all issues and reactions of the system.
So, with no voltage terminal to terminal, you know thermotime must be replaced, whether the total root cause or not. This is a common issue. When mine caused no starts, I didn't have noid light against which to determine if other 8 injectors where somehow interupted, so I can't confirm. LJet has some cool little features according to what I read, but not sure about this. There are some interupt features for safety in accident that, pure speculation here, that might be triggered by a failed start. Our experts here concentrate on LH Jet, and I"ve found scarce references to actual LJet operation in archives, so we are on our own here.
Regardless, order the temp time if you believe the terminal to terminal open ohm value.
Did you find X plug to check injector feed wires at the CE panel.? I check for corrosion, then replug, then press each individual electrode into place using a mechanics pick.
Am also wondering about your ground under the air valve, possibility of big vac leak, and possible short in injector boots (which will take them all out). Also possible short or disconnection of AFM.
The history of car stalling with removal of foot from gas pedal is also concerning.
Next time you try starting it, put something like a length of heater hose in AFM barn door to hold it open.
Jumper ignition relay and see what you get.
Sorry to not be definitive. I've trial-errored, along with moderate reading, but haven't mapped all issues and reactions of the system.
I do not see any X plug, so if you happen to have the location on the CE panel, that would be helpful (or how many wires present in that plug, color,etc..)
The brief history with the gas pedal and dying, makes me think ground somewhere.
If there is a short at one of the injector, would that injector not read 12v?
Will try with the barn wedged open, tackle the ground under the air valve, check the caps on the vacuum for leaks in the V , order the Thermo time and see what happens!!!
We will get it!
12-29-2012, 06:33 AM
#41
Rennlist Member
Here's the pinout for CE panel plug X for 1984 USA.
Its the plastic plug at the far right, bottom of the CE panel.
You would need to remove the lower piece of the wooden cover for clear access.
X 1 L-JetronicTerminal 11
X 2 Injector Signal to 1/2/5/6
X 3 Injector Signal to 3/4/7/8
X 4 L-JetronicTerminal 29
X 5 L-JetronicTerminal 10
X 6 L-JetronicTerminal 1
X 7 L-JetronicTerminal 4
X 8
Both cam cover grounds need to be clean.
Its the plastic plug at the far right, bottom of the CE panel.
You would need to remove the lower piece of the wooden cover for clear access.
X 1 L-JetronicTerminal 11
X 2 Injector Signal to 1/2/5/6
X 3 Injector Signal to 3/4/7/8
X 4 L-JetronicTerminal 29
X 5 L-JetronicTerminal 10
X 6 L-JetronicTerminal 1
X 7 L-JetronicTerminal 4
X 8
Both cam cover grounds need to be clean.
Last edited by Landseer; 12-29-2012 at 07:22 AM.
12-30-2012, 06:17 PM
#42
Just another update as continue to chase the no-start.
X at the CE panel is in good condition all plugs seated and tight.
Both injector grounds have been removed and cleaned , both appeared to be in good shape with minimal cleaning needed.
Wedged barn door open ..
Still same results.
Going to check for fuel pressure tomorrow , while it does start for a second then die, I assume the FP is fine, but just want to rule it out I guess. I know there is spark..
After that it's all electrical I guess..
X at the CE panel is in good condition all plugs seated and tight.
Both injector grounds have been removed and cleaned , both appeared to be in good shape with minimal cleaning needed.
Wedged barn door open ..
Still same results.
Going to check for fuel pressure tomorrow , while it does start for a second then die, I assume the FP is fine, but just want to rule it out I guess. I know there is spark..
After that it's all electrical I guess..
12-30-2012, 07:00 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
Might be a good idea to pull the covers and confirm timing gears and harmonic balancer and rotor are all still on their marks.
And noid light should be firing.
And noid light should be firing.
