Delco alternator not happy at temperature!
#31
Drifting
I'm not sure you can get the alternator low enough with those spacers. It needs to be in a cool air stream, not swallowing the hot air that's passed through the AC condenser and the radiator. Heat conduction through the bracket from the block isn't nearly as big a factor as trying to cool the alternator with 200º+ airflow. The cooling hose and shroud make a huge difference.
Enough folks are doing the Delco and Motorcraft replacements that there's an emerging market for a vacuum-molded plastic shroud with a hose schnozzle on the back. Did any GM cars (Corvette??) duct cool air to their alternators?
Enough folks are doing the Delco and Motorcraft replacements that there's an emerging market for a vacuum-molded plastic shroud with a hose schnozzle on the back. Did any GM cars (Corvette??) duct cool air to their alternators?
#33
Rennlist Member
I purchased a high output delco alternator conversion from these guys. http://alternatorparts.com/cs130-alternator.htm They are built to withstand heat better AND better idle output.
They also have cooling kit if you need it.
Check your primary engine ground and battery ground. Make sure it's clean and tight. Your in dash volt meter gauge is generally off and NOT a reliable source for diagnostics and has no bearing on what you are actually seeing. Take a voltmeter and measure output at the battery and the front jump post and compare results. Also - if you can- measure at alternator. They should all be pretty close. Be careful at the alternator so as not to create a spark. Also - check the strength of your battery. Make sure it's holding atleast 12.5v or better charge after sitting for 24 hours.
Also - alternators are designed to NOT to produce full output all the time. They actually decrease in output. Cheaper alternators don't hold out as long as they have less rectifiers. Also, you never get the full rating an alternator says due to efficiency loss. So, try and get the highest amp alternator you can...
oh...and no modifications needed...
my .02..
They also have cooling kit if you need it.
Check your primary engine ground and battery ground. Make sure it's clean and tight. Your in dash volt meter gauge is generally off and NOT a reliable source for diagnostics and has no bearing on what you are actually seeing. Take a voltmeter and measure output at the battery and the front jump post and compare results. Also - if you can- measure at alternator. They should all be pretty close. Be careful at the alternator so as not to create a spark. Also - check the strength of your battery. Make sure it's holding atleast 12.5v or better charge after sitting for 24 hours.
Also - alternators are designed to NOT to produce full output all the time. They actually decrease in output. Cheaper alternators don't hold out as long as they have less rectifiers. Also, you never get the full rating an alternator says due to efficiency loss. So, try and get the highest amp alternator you can...
oh...and no modifications needed...
my .02..
#34
I've got a upgraded one coming by the weekend its not a delco or a motorcraft but i've been guarantied it will push out 14 volts and 200 amps at temp at idle and in it's upper range its 14.5 v and 270 amps.
its a down graded version of the twin 300 amp setup i've been running for the last four years on my duramax.
Once its on and tested myself or SeanR will give the low down.
its a down graded version of the twin 300 amp setup i've been running for the last four years on my duramax.
Once its on and tested myself or SeanR will give the low down.
#35
Rennlist Member
I've got a upgraded one coming by the weekend its not a delco or a motorcraft but i've been guarantied it will push out 14 volts and 200 amps at temp at idle and in it's upper range its 14.5 v and 270 amps.
its a down graded version of the twin 300 amp setup i've been running for the last four years on my duramax.
Once its on and tested myself or SeanR will give the low down.
its a down graded version of the twin 300 amp setup i've been running for the last four years on my duramax.
Once its on and tested myself or SeanR will give the low down.
When I was on my adventure looking for an alternator with those specs, it usually came down to lack of space, too much customization or lots of $$$$. The nice thing about the delco is that you can get a 140A alternator, that will fit with little to no customization for $120. It's hard to beat....
#36
Electron Wrangler
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Did they ask you about the application and talk about pulley ratios? The 928 runs the alternator slower at idle than many cars. Without this info it would be pretty stupid to make any kind of guarantee.
BTW 14.5v is a terrible idea for a 928 - especially at temperature - it would be a great way to boil and explode a battery... think again... GM etc cars that generate up to 14.5v have other ways of managing battery charging - all the way from undersized feed wiring (resistance) to remote sensing for the voltage regulator - We don't have this - the battery is very solidly tied to the alternator. Alternator/battery feed wires on these GM vehicles may be just 14AWG while on your Porsche they are between 8x and 17x bigger (even if a bit longer).
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 08-15-2013 at 02:29 PM.
#37
I hope you have a good guarantee on that because they lied to you ... It can't possibly be that good - though it may still be good enough (current generation) for your requirements.
Did they ask you about the application and talk about pulley ratios? The 928 runs the alternator slower at idle than many cars. Without this info it would be stupid to make any kind of guarantee.
BTW 14.5v is a terrible idea - especially at temperature - it would be a great way to boil and explode a battery... think again... GM etc cars that generate up to 14.5v have other ways of managing battery charging - all the way from undersized feed wiring (resistance) to remote sensing of the voltage regulator - We don't have this - the battery is very solidly tied to the alternator.
Alan
Did they ask you about the application and talk about pulley ratios? The 928 runs the alternator slower at idle than many cars. Without this info it would be stupid to make any kind of guarantee.
BTW 14.5v is a terrible idea - especially at temperature - it would be a great way to boil and explode a battery... think again... GM etc cars that generate up to 14.5v have other ways of managing battery charging - all the way from undersized feed wiring (resistance) to remote sensing of the voltage regulator - We don't have this - the battery is very solidly tied to the alternator.
Alan
Why yes it is a good guarantee I've dealt with this company for a long time on many projects and not once have i been let down. When they say it will put out x amount it does.
Yes we discussed pulley sizes rpm at idle etc.
14.5 a bad idea? never once have i had a issue boiling over a battery I've built iasca and db drag setups with up to 4 alternators each making 350 amps and 15 volts running zero gauge supply lines those like this one are internally regulated and as they see demand they will increase output.
This is not your typical alternator or off the shelf part this is a segment conductor design with a rectifier that is mounted onboard the alternator and consists of 12 50 amp press fit diodes three internal fans and everything wrapped in a billet case
But in the worst case if it doesn't make the cut then it will get sent back and another will take it's place. That would be the joy of working with a company you know and trust.
#38
Looking forward to see how well this works. The other stuff that TxBR has done is seriously impressive, I have zero doubts that this will fall in line with the rest of the projects he's done.
#39
here is a little sneak peek and some specs
Output Voltage 14.8
Idle Amperage 200
Hot Idle Amperage @ 200ºF 180
Max Amperage 270
Hot Max Amperage @ 200ºF 250
Pulley 7 Groove Hard Anodized 6061 Billet Aluminum
Doesn't affect vehicles PCM, Check Engine Light or Charge Light Yes - w/ Supplied Adapter Harness
Stator Configuration 6 Phase Hairpin
Average A/C Ripple Current 3 Amps
Positive Output Stud Size 8MM x 1.25 Copper
Temperature Compensation Yes with 3-Step Thermal Protection
Rectifier 12 50 amp press fit diodes
Rectifier Heatsink Aluminum
Output Voltage 14.8
Idle Amperage 200
Hot Idle Amperage @ 200ºF 180
Max Amperage 270
Hot Max Amperage @ 200ºF 250
Pulley 7 Groove Hard Anodized 6061 Billet Aluminum
Doesn't affect vehicles PCM, Check Engine Light or Charge Light Yes - w/ Supplied Adapter Harness
Stator Configuration 6 Phase Hairpin
Average A/C Ripple Current 3 Amps
Positive Output Stud Size 8MM x 1.25 Copper
Temperature Compensation Yes with 3-Step Thermal Protection
Rectifier 12 50 amp press fit diodes
Rectifier Heatsink Aluminum
Last edited by TXBenchRacer; 12-07-2014 at 03:32 AM.
#41
Electron Wrangler
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I hear you - but I still don't believe it. However my guess is you will never be able to really test it to those specs - so as long as its good enough it won't really matter.
14.5v at high temp.. Well we'll see. The stock alternator will always derate substantially in high ambients due to its (over aggressive) temperature compensation. But it even starts out at more like ~13.8v with stock regulator.
Alan
14.5v at high temp.. Well we'll see. The stock alternator will always derate substantially in high ambients due to its (over aggressive) temperature compensation. But it even starts out at more like ~13.8v with stock regulator.
Alan
#42
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I had a thread on here somewhere detailing a switchover to Delco- I used the stock shroud with some simple sheet metal adapters...search for posts by me if you are interested...
#43
Drifting
here is a little sneak peek and some specs
Output Voltage 14.8
Idle Amperage 200
Hot Idle Amperage @ 200ºF 180
Max Amperage 270
Hot Max Amperage @ 200ºF 250
Pulley 7 Groove Hard Anodized 6061 Billet Aluminum
Doesn't affect vehicles PCM, Check Engine Light or Charge Light Yes - w/ Supplied Adapter Harness
Stator Configuration 6 Phase Hairpin
Average A/C Ripple Current 3 Amps
Positive Output Stud Size 8MM x 1.25 Copper
Temperature Compensation Yes with 3-Step Thermal Protection
Rectifier 12 50 amp press fit diodes
Rectifier Heatsink Aluminum
Output Voltage 14.8
Idle Amperage 200
Hot Idle Amperage @ 200ºF 180
Max Amperage 270
Hot Max Amperage @ 200ºF 250
Pulley 7 Groove Hard Anodized 6061 Billet Aluminum
Doesn't affect vehicles PCM, Check Engine Light or Charge Light Yes - w/ Supplied Adapter Harness
Stator Configuration 6 Phase Hairpin
Average A/C Ripple Current 3 Amps
Positive Output Stud Size 8MM x 1.25 Copper
Temperature Compensation Yes with 3-Step Thermal Protection
Rectifier 12 50 amp press fit diodes
Rectifier Heatsink Aluminum
#44
That and well to be blunt the stock alternator sucks.
at idle full ac on high headlights on and fogs and i see 10.9 volts at the batt
#45
Rennlist Member