TXBenchRacer

Ok i posted a few things about this in a thread alt not happy at temp and i thought i would start a new one for photos and any questions about how seanr and myself did the wiring and what supplies we used.

First off the upgrade here are the specs

Output Voltage 14.8
Idle Amperage 200
Hot Idle Amperage @ 200ºF 180
Max Amperage 270
Hot Max Amperage @ 200ºF 250
Pulley 7 Groove Hard Anodized 6061 Billet Aluminum
Doesn't affect vehicles PCM, Check Engine Light or Charge Light Yes - w/ Supplied Adapter Harness
Stator Configuration 6 Phase Hairpin
Average A/C Ripple Current 3 Amps
Positive Output Stud Size 8MM x 1.25 Copper
Temperature Compensation Yes with 3-Step Thermal Protection
Rectifier 12 50 amp press fit diodes
Rectifier Heatsink Aluminum

This unit uses the factory mounting system and belt it WILL require a upgrade of the main leads to the starter battery and main junction point under the hood.
there is also units down the ladder so to speak but i figured if i was going to be a guinea pig i might as well shoot for the top that and my addiction to car audio doesn't work so well with the stock setup.

So everything is in we had to remake the 14 pin harness. It was crusty to say the least brittle wires worn spots and wires that the coating was turning gooey. The
factory main charge leads were all corroded inside from water seeping in over the many years it was a total redo but no big deal had the charge leads and harness done in a reasonable amount of time.

onto the testing to keep everything the same for cold test and running temp test everything was turned on vehicle at idle 750 rpm as follows

all lights on high
fogs on
all interior lights
hazards
front ac on high
rear ac on high
front and rear wipers on
spal 14 inch 10 amp draw
jl 900.5 and double din head unit on and playing at max competition levels
level and song same between tests

cold test results
alternator temp taken with thermal gun 71 f
front junction post 14.55 v
at starter 14.57
at batt 14.51


hot test car was ran on the highway and then driven around town in stop and go traffic to make sure everything was heat soaked and it was stinking hot today.

hot results
alternator temp 223.4
front junction post 13.89
starter 13.92
batt 13.90

as with the cold tests the vehicle was tested after having everything on for one min to allow max draw and run for 5 min with the lowest levels recorded.

While this may not be everyones ticket there are lower output ones available but this one is at the top of the food chain.

I am in no way affiliated with the company who manufactures this product I called them looking for the end all be all solution for my specific needs.


Now onto the photos!

Fogey1

This thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...mperature.html

These posts:
https://rennlist.com/forums/10687375-post37.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/10687629-post39.html

Ninespub

So what would an upgrade like this probably cost in terms of parts and labor? (Including the new charge leads, etc.) Inquiring minds wish to know!

BC

If it's smaller and lighter why not do it, no matter if you have a big honking radio or not.

TXBenchRacer

I'm sure SeanR will add in on this part but to do my exact set up I'd guess between 1,200 to 1,500 parts labor but I'd look to Sean for a more solid number. Also depending on the condition of your 14 pin.

The alternator alone is $650

BC that's the one thing I didn't do was a weaight comparison but I'd say it's the same if not a little over the stock unit
But is is smaller for sure no more hanging below the oil pan

LT Texan

So, I am interested in the upgrade cable and power lugs and your crimped.

Where you ran the new cable. Alt to starter? Alt to jump post. Jump post to CE panel. Batt to starter. Chassis to batt neg terminal. Engine to chassis.

BC

You can go the other way as well - more than one fuel pump, and running some water pumps for coolant in a boosted car, as well as extra fans - this would fit the bill well and we don't even have to talk about the audiophile stuff at all.

TXBenchRacer

alt to starter 0/2 gauge
alt to batt 0/2 gauge will fit in the factory rings and the body channel with a little coaxing
alt to abs junction 4 gauge
starter to main junction 4 gauge

no upgrade from the junction to the ce as of yet i have a thermal monitor on the main lead "wire loop for monitoring gas rc head temps with readout" into the ce
on a peak hold to see if it's heating under load but so far its looking good

the 0/2 cable is industrial welding lead cable very tough and extremely flexible also not bothered by solvents
the 4 gauge is Kolossus Fleks Kable

i used hooker audio connections gotta love that companies name crimped and soldered then heat shrunk all cables fed through fire sleeve and ends sealed with self vulcanizing silicone tape

i'll take some more shots of exactly where everything is running.

TXBenchRacer

i hear ya on that one bc

SeanR

Martin has it right as far as a guess on cost for all of it. $1300 to $1500.

I'll add this info to a thread I started about the 14 pin connector so it will be duplicated but here are some pictures on what this front end harness looked like. This one is a 90k mile car and in fantastic shape, the harness did not look like it needed replacing but since we upped the amperage by so much we pulled it anyway. Once we took the harness out we could see the actual condition of the wires. **** is the best term I can come up with. Externally it looked fine but here is the actual condition.

The sheathing down in the middle



The alt to 14 pin wire.



I'm afraid we are all going to need new harnesses soon, no matter how well the car is maintained.

LT Texan

Well I guess the 0/2 from the alt to the battery will be sufficient.

One of my problems is the voltage drop from the jump post and I need to determine if the cable needs upgrading between that and the CE panel.

And some other things.

How about pics of the stereo set up when you can.....

Koenig-Specials 928

What is the length of the cable from the alt to the battery?
Please and thanks

Mrmerlin

Just a few things to think about and add to your data collection while your testing.

I would suggest to use the IR gun on the battery to see cold and running temps before and after the new alt mods is done.

Do the same for the CE panel. This to catch any hi resistance connections and prevent them from melting the panel with the higher output alternator

I have found that higher charging alternators can boil the battery and cause the electrolyte to come out of the battery so a vent/drain hose is a good thing .
the battery is effectively insulated by the battery box.

Also to consider there isnt any fresh air ducting being used and this could spell and early demise for the new hardware,
as there will be lots of small stones being sucked into the alternator as its spinning ,
and is close to the road . so it could also be damaged by water splashing.

I have found a few non ducted alternators full of sand / stones and the internals ground up from the debris, things get worse when there are oil or PS leaks.

good luck with the new modifications

BC

http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en...care/charging/

Seems to me that he is well within the limits of most battery charging numbers. He has also explained that the case and the unit is made for good venting.

Ambient venting is fine with open cases like that one, and how much actual air is moving through that pipe anyway on the OEM unit? Not much. Its more like a pressure cooker, and it gets dirty and greasy anyway.

This unit is for people who have enough pride to fix the damn leaks Prior to installing such a nice piece.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Hi BC,
I accidentally installed my new OEM alternator without the fan. I found out that with NO airflow the alternator burns up in less than 20 minutes. I would conclude that quite a bit of air must move through the duct system for them to last 25 years with the cooling provided.
Open case designs work too.
Dave