Fuel Rail Pressure Gauge...16v
#1
Fuel Rail Pressure Gauge...16v
Is there a supplier that sells a bolt on permanent pressure gauge for the 16v fuel rail?
I have been having some start and running problems with the car and I thought it would be nice to have a pressure gauge permanently mounted on the fuel rail. I have seen several cars with them (can not recall if they were all 32v or 16v). Most of the gauges I have seen online seem to be the bottom mounted ones; the ones I have seen on 928's have a fitting at the rear. Also I would like to find one with the correct connector end or at least one with an adapter all from the same supplier.
I have been having some start and running problems with the car and I thought it would be nice to have a pressure gauge permanently mounted on the fuel rail. I have seen several cars with them (can not recall if they were all 32v or 16v). Most of the gauges I have seen online seem to be the bottom mounted ones; the ones I have seen on 928's have a fitting at the rear. Also I would like to find one with the correct connector end or at least one with an adapter all from the same supplier.
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Search for a thread from moderator emeritus Randy V, which shows the fire damage and documents the repair/restore challenges following the fuel pressure gauge failure. Some of our regular vendors still offer the gauge package, bu it's with a very hard directive that it's only for diagnostics, and shall not be left connected permanently.
My diagnostic gauge kit has a spare drilled-and-tapped rail cap from 928 Intl, a 1/4" brass tubing ferrule to mimic the function of the original ball bearing, and a standard 3" pressure gauge on a hose intended for GM 1/4-20 rail fittings. All-in less than $25, and much easier to read than the tiny 1" gauge that folks were mounting directly to the cap.
My diagnostic gauge kit has a spare drilled-and-tapped rail cap from 928 Intl, a 1/4" brass tubing ferrule to mimic the function of the original ball bearing, and a standard 3" pressure gauge on a hose intended for GM 1/4-20 rail fittings. All-in less than $25, and much easier to read than the tiny 1" gauge that folks were mounting directly to the cap.
#3
dr Bob, thanks for the heads up. Found the thread...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...gine-fire.html
20 pages! And to think all I wanted to do was find a part to connect a pressure gauge. Probably spending more time reading the thread than doing the work, lol.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...gine-fire.html
20 pages! And to think all I wanted to do was find a part to connect a pressure gauge. Probably spending more time reading the thread than doing the work, lol.
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Joe--
Fords and certain other makes have a handy Schraeder-type fitting on the rail for connecting a diagnostic gauge. Were I looking at possible solutions .and. happened to have one of the rails off for intake or injector service, I'd drill and tap the rail for one of those fittings. Then when I needed to connect the gauge, it would go right on with no muss or fuss.
The factory cap over the test port/end of the rail depends on a ball bearing to seal against the flared end of the rail. It takes a pretty interesting fitting to go on there and make the seal on the rail and provide a path for fuel to get to a gauge plumbed there. I used a stock cap, and replaced the ball bearing with a brass tube ferrule intended for 1/4" tubing. The ferrule slides over the exposed threaded end of the hose I use to connect to a gauge. I could as easily have used a Schraeder-type connector there, but it would have to have something to hold the ferrule in the right alignment inside the cap.
Pictures (one of these days) will save a thousand words describing the piece I dreamed up. In the meanwhile, I think Carl and Roger may still have their cap/adapter available.
Fords and certain other makes have a handy Schraeder-type fitting on the rail for connecting a diagnostic gauge. Were I looking at possible solutions .and. happened to have one of the rails off for intake or injector service, I'd drill and tap the rail for one of those fittings. Then when I needed to connect the gauge, it would go right on with no muss or fuss.
The factory cap over the test port/end of the rail depends on a ball bearing to seal against the flared end of the rail. It takes a pretty interesting fitting to go on there and make the seal on the rail and provide a path for fuel to get to a gauge plumbed there. I used a stock cap, and replaced the ball bearing with a brass tube ferrule intended for 1/4" tubing. The ferrule slides over the exposed threaded end of the hose I use to connect to a gauge. I could as easily have used a Schraeder-type connector there, but it would have to have something to hold the ferrule in the right alignment inside the cap.
Pictures (one of these days) will save a thousand words describing the piece I dreamed up. In the meanwhile, I think Carl and Roger may still have their cap/adapter available.
#5
Rennlist Member
Joe, I have one of Roger's gaiges sitting in a box in the garage I used to diagnose a similar problem a couple years ago. You are welcome to borrow if if needed. If so, shoot me a PM with your mailing address.