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Ready to install my engine what other items look at before going into the engine bay

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Old 04-18-2014, 03:19 PM
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Livio928
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Default Ready to install my engine what other items look at before going into the engine bay

Here is a list of items I have done/replaced to the engine:

Rod bearings
Crank
Crank bearings
lapped cylinder walls
Rebuilt Heads and gaskets
New cam tensioners
GB fuel hoses
silicone vac lines
crank sensor
knock sensors
Full Intake refresh c/w intake spacers
fuel injectors
oil pan spacer
spark plugs
spark plug wires
'O' rings everywhere
Oil pump service
OB style oil pick up
new clutch hose
OEM motor mounts
exhaust manifold fasteners and gaskets
new exhaust c/w 'X' Pipe (to be installed after engine in place
fixed wiring harness connections and wires
Porkensioner
Water Pump
Gaskets throughout
TB
Hoses if not in almost new shape.
Sharkvent

Need the following:

small starter for Oil pan spacer
SuperMAF for 2 stage VCB supercharger being installed
Need to determine state of Clutch specs

Will be looking at A/C and HVAC after installed unless better to do it now.


It has been 4 years since I started the process. Should the Master Cylinder and booster be serviced replaced? Were working fine when removed the engine. Anything I should do before shoehorning it back in?

Last edited by Livio928; 04-18-2014 at 03:25 PM. Reason: additional items added
Old 04-18-2014, 04:13 PM
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FredR
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Good luck with the install- you deserve a good result. I would ensure the motor is running well before fitting the supercharger-doubtless your plan as well.

Regards

Fred
Old 04-18-2014, 05:15 PM
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Imo000
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The MC and the booster are fine. You had the car in a heated shop, I would't worry about it.
Old 04-18-2014, 06:17 PM
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Adamant1971
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What about the coolant resevour? Much easier to deal with when the engine is out arent they?

I would service the clutch master and brake master before the engine goes back in. Rebuild kits are cheap, and then you know they are 100%

Good luck.
Old 04-18-2014, 06:21 PM
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dr bob
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If you plan on changing the AC hoses to support leak-free R12 or R-134a use, get them rebuilt now while the access is easy. One is long and wraps around the pass side of the engine bay. If you need to remove it and take it to a shop for rebuild with new hose, it's almost impossible to do it with the engine installed. For sure replace the o-rings at either end of the fuel cooler while you can easily get wrenches on it. Get the seals at the expansion valve and probably the expansion valve itself too, while lines are loose in clamp at the rear the engine bay.

The steel Y-pipe for coolant on the right fender wall is a rust-through item on undermaintained cars. Check yours and decide if t needs replacement. Much Easier to do that now with the engine out. Regardless, the coolant hoses between there and the reservoir, there and the heater, are much easier to change with the engine out.


Power steering hoses are easy to work on now. Replace any that are original.


Clean Everything Really Well.
Old 04-18-2014, 07:27 PM
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17prospective buyer
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Follow up on it when you do it. I'd like to put mine back in soon and am in the same boat.
Old 04-18-2014, 11:21 PM
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jeff spahn
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Originally Posted by Livio928
Here is a list of items I have done/replaced to the engine: Rod bearings Crank Crank bearings lapped cylinder walls Rebuilt Heads and gaskets New cam tensioners GB fuel hoses silicone vac lines crank sensor knock sensors Full Intake refresh c/w intake spacers fuel injectors oil pan spacer spark plugs spark plug wires 'O' rings everywhere Oil pump service OB style oil pick up new clutch hose OEM motor mounts exhaust manifold fasteners and gaskets new exhaust c/w 'X' Pipe (to be installed after engine in place fixed wiring harness connections and wires Porkensioner Water Pump Gaskets throughout TB Hoses if not in almost new shape. Sharkvent Need the following: small starter for Oil pan spacer SuperMAF for 2 stage VCB supercharger being installed Need to determine state of Clutch specs Will be looking at A/C and HVAC after installed unless better to do it now. It has been 4 years since I started the process. Should the Master Cylinder and booster be serviced replaced? Were working fine when removed the engine. Anything I should do before shoehorning it back in?
Am I the only one who saw "lapped cylinder walls? With what? You do know this block requires a VERY SPECIAL process to hone and polish the cylinders dont you? Am I missing something?
Old 04-18-2014, 11:54 PM
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17prospective buyer
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Jeff i wouldn't really call it special, just uncommon and less accessible, less overall experience with the process. If more engines were made this way it would be a standard process just like honing regular blocks.
Old 04-19-2014, 10:38 AM
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Livio928
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn
Am I the only one who saw "lapped cylinder walls? With what? You do know this block requires a VERY SPECIAL process to hone and polish the cylinders dont you? Am I missing something?
It was done as per the factory procedure with the special paste by an experienced 928/944 mechanic familiar with Alusil blocks. We decided that the block didn't need to be machined with the Sunnen machine and a lapping would be sufficient. This in spite of the fact that another fellow 928 enthusiast thought that I could hone it and lap it myself with a standard Princess Auto (Cdn version of Harbour Freight) honing tool. Actually the pasting procedure is not very difficult if you know what you are doing.

I was wondering who was going to catch that one. Good on you. You can claim your prize within 24 hours by driving up to Canada and pick it up from my shop which is closed on the Easter holiday weekend
Old 04-19-2014, 11:13 AM
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LT Texan
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Brake master, clutch master and slave replace or rebuild most definitely.

I rebuilt my a/c hoses and replaced o-rings with the engine out.

Upper a-arm r&r if needed with new shocks while the engine is out.

Good luck!
Old 04-19-2014, 11:14 AM
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LT Texan
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rebuild torque tube too.

Shifter ball cup.
Old 04-19-2014, 01:22 PM
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worf928
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Hall sensor?

Blue hose from reservoir to clutch master.

The high-pressure a/c line from condenser to fuel cooler.

Coolant overflow tank.

Never easier to get a SuperBearing rebuilt TT from Constantine.
Old 04-21-2014, 10:48 AM
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Livio928
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Originally Posted by Imo000
The MC and the booster are fine. You had the car in a heated shop, I would't worry about it.
Unfortunately, I left it outside all this winter. Is it the hydroscopic effect that will allow the water to freeze in the containers and ruin the seals that is the problem? With these kits, is it just changing the seals and o rings? Not familiar with the procedure.
Old 04-21-2014, 10:53 AM
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Livio928
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Originally Posted by worf928
Hall sensor?
Yup done.

Originally Posted by worf928
Blue hose from reservoir to clutch master.
is this the special hose that Greg B makes? if so Yup.

Originally Posted by worf928
The high-pressure a/c line from condenser to fuel cooler.
Got to look into that one, but I think it looks pretty good from my recollection.

Originally Posted by worf928
Coolant overflow tank.
Will look at it.

Originally Posted by worf928
Never easier to get a SuperBearing rebuilt TT from Constantine.
Is it necessary on a 5 spd?
Old 04-21-2014, 11:17 AM
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Imo000
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Originally Posted by Livio928
Unfortunately, I left it outside all this winter. Is it the hydroscopic effect that will allow the water to freeze in the containers and ruin the seals that is the problem? With these kits, is it just changing the seals and o rings? Not familiar with the procedure.
No, the water will be disolved in the fluid so it shouldn't be a problem. Most rebuild kits have seals and springs in then so changing then out is ewasy if you can grt the part out.


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