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My final batch of parts showed up yesterday. Sterling shamed me into replacing all the bearings, not just the one, as an "ounce of prevention", so they're here now. TOUCH WOOD....I think I've got everything I need. Installed the front shocks last night. Just wanted something done....and parts out of the way. This showed up in my thread today....
My final batch of parts showed up yesterday. Sterling shamed me into replacing all the bearings, not just the one, as an "ounce of prevention", so they're here now. TOUCH WOOD....I think I've got everything I need. Installed the front shocks last night. Just wanted something done....and parts out of the way. This showed up in my thread today....
No sense in changing one of the bearings that are not rated properly. not to mention one was really bad in your video, and since it wasn't doing anything all of the driveshaft force was on the other one. Glad you decided to do them. 1.5 & 2" PVC with caps works well for getting the bearings seated properly. I did the rear most bearing in the carrier, and then the front bearing on the shaft, then the carrier pressed onto the driveshaft and the very front bearing last onto the driveshaft.
Replacing the all the bearings and cleaning out the tube ensures you wont be back in there for a while.
It sucks to have to do this but it would really suck to put it back together to find that 2nd rear bearing was close to going bad and be back in there in 3-6 months. now all we have to worry about, is "were the driveshafts balanced?"
The bearings on mine were for a stock shaft and RPM said they were the right spec. But I don't want to drop everything out of the car again anytime soon...so....in for a penny at this point. #therightcall
What bearings are you guys replacing them with?
I replaced the 2 larger ones with Timken 9108PP
The smaller one that was a rattler as well was a KBC. I replaced that with NTN 6010 LLBC3 that was readily available in Canada
What bearings are you guys replacing them with?
I replaced the 2 larger ones with Timken 9108PP
The smaller one that was a rattler as well was a KBC. I replaced that with NTN 6010 LLBC3 that was readily available in Canada
I'll send it to you privately. I'm not doing any more free consulting or beta testing products he sells as complete solutions.
Note the piece of the very thin folder cardboard. Room for it on the passenger side but when you pull it out on the drivers side you feel resistance. Why does it have to fit so close? Plenty of room. Yet another part of the kit that wasn’t made correctly. The mounts allow the trans to move around and while carl told Algave that the trans moved towards the rear under force that (rearward) would drive the trans right into this bracket.
So in overall:
Torque tube was full of cutting and drill shavings
Wrong torque tube bearings
Shifter mounted in the wrong place
Driver side trans brackets needed work
Rear center bracket bar needs to be cut off repositioned and re-welded
Looks like who ever made the tube cut or ground too much off one side of the bend in order to weld flush......They should have made a new bend and started all over rather than trying to save a $4 piece of tubing.
Looks like who ever made the tube cut or ground too much off one side of the bend in order to weld flush......They should have made a new bend and started all over rather than trying to save a $4 piece of tubing.
They also could have just welded the two plates 1/2 inch further to the rear. I noticed in your pics, at one point you were tracing out the the flat parts of the center bracket. Have any digital copies? It might just be better to move those back and it also makes it easier for the ebrake cables. It appears to be too far forward anyway
Unfortunately, the templates I made are packed away in a storage POD. I know you don't want anything to do with Carl, but the least he could do is send you a new replacement.
Unfortunately, the templates I made are packed away in a storage POD. I know you don't want anything to do with Carl, but the least he could do is send you a new replacement.
I’m guessing he would refuse since he gouged me for 4 water jet cut flat pieces of aluminum and would not just sell me just the one that I needed. Not even worth trying.
Here is a shot of the main center bracket, bar that goes from side to side. There is plenty of room for it to be relocated, so I'll have a local shop cut it off, and relocated it. Since the finish appears to be a textured spray paint, It will be easy to touch up when a new bar is added.
Here is a good pic of the outrigger on the drivers side. It was a really good way to add stability to the passenger side brackets as only one of them had a locating pin. I still don't understand why one could not be added to the drivers side, not for stability, but for an installation aid.
Here is some really good hardware that I used in the past. This is a new set that was sent to me by the manufacturer. I had their original hardware, (as one of the early adopters) and the cir-clips are a one time use. I called them to order some new ones and even though my original purchase was in 2006 or 2007 they noted that my hardware was the original black oxide finish and the cir-clips were different due to the exacting tolerances. They sent me a new set of bolts and cir-clips at no charge. I didn't ask them to. They just told me the original hardware had issues with the finish and they wanted me to have the latest stuff. That is how a vendor takes care of their customers. These won't go in until I'm 100% certain the trans won't be coming out again.
Those locking fasteners are very cool. I've seen them before, but never used them for anything. Seems like a perfect application where you don't want something working loose from vibration.
Those locking fasteners are very cool. I've seen them before, but never used them for anything. Seems like a perfect application where you don't want something working loose from vibration.
They work really well. I put them through quite a bit of abuse and they stay put. Very nice design, and the customer service was fantastic. It wasn't splashed all over their website. If you have good customer service you don't have to brag about how many satisfied customers you have, because they do it for you. (like this post) I actually just called to buy the replacement clips. I could have figured out what size I had and probably bought them online cheap, but I decided to support a company that has good products.
Last edited by Bigfoot928; 05-20-2020 at 10:05 PM.
They work really well. I put them through quite a bit of abuse and they stay put. Very nice design, and the customer service was fantastic. It wasn't splashed all over their website. I actually just called to buy the replacement clips. Could have figured it out and probably bought them online cheap.
In the long races (24 Hours of Daytona and the 12 Hours of Sebring) we had to drill the stock bolts and use safety wire to keep the C/V bolts from coming loose. This worked fine, as long as you didn't have to change an axle or a transmission.
I would have loved to have these, back then.
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
Quick update. It didn’t fall apart when I started it...so I’m double checking and nutting and bolting, Hang the exhaust, check ride height and off for alignment. I’ll post another video when I can hear the TT in neutral. I didn’t have the shifter handle on and was trying to get it in reverse and not cut my hand. Once I put the handle on even muscling it past the lockout wasn’t hard.
05-14-2020, 02:27 PM
