Fuel rail gauge adapter
#3
Burning Brakes
My opinion is that nobody should use those things. I think they are a fire hazard. But maybe that's just me. One sees plenty of them when one looks around...
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I could just run some poly tube inside the cab to a gauge, right? LOL JK
I just need to see my fuel pressure to set my FMU correctly. Then it will most likely come off. I don't like the look of the fuel rail without the cover on it.
I will call Carl to see if he will sell me just the adapter without the gauge.
I just need to see my fuel pressure to set my FMU correctly. Then it will most likely come off. I don't like the look of the fuel rail without the cover on it.
I will call Carl to see if he will sell me just the adapter without the gauge.
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#9
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Stopped selling them - I sleep better at night 8>)
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#10
Chronic Tool Dropper
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If you plan to use it for testing only, more power to you. There have been several fires reported from failures that resulted in fuel spray in the engine bay. That's why you aren't getting guidance on the fittings.
#13
Chronic Tool Dropper
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It's not quite that easy. The original fitting depends on a steel ball bearing to mate up with the flared end on the fuel rail, providing the seal. The threads are straight onto the rail, so there's no sealing available from them. Some foilks have put layers of Teflon tape on the rail threads, hoping that would be enough to seal. It might be "good enough" for a quick pressure test on a cold engine, but not suitable for longer-term use, like using it to support FMU tuning under extended load.
I drilled and tapped a stock cap to accept a very common GM fuel pressure test connector, and use a commonly-available gauge on a short hose when I need to check fuel pressure. The GM fitting uses a 1/4-28 straight fitting, and I added an o-ring where the hose now butts up against the cap. Inside the threaded rail cap, a 1/4" brass tubing ferrule sits over the stub of the fitting that passes through the cap, effectively replaceing the ball-bearing duty while allowing fuel to pass through to the gauge port.
Theoretically, since the ball bearing does the original sealing at the flared end of the rail, you could easly drill & tap your existing rail cap, then install it again with the original ball seal after testing is done. Theoretically. For me the cap was cheap and an easy add-on to a parts pick-up from 928 International, plus it gets used on others' cars a lot more often than on mine, so having a dedicated piece in the gauge kit made more sense for me.
I drilled and tapped a stock cap to accept a very common GM fuel pressure test connector, and use a commonly-available gauge on a short hose when I need to check fuel pressure. The GM fitting uses a 1/4-28 straight fitting, and I added an o-ring where the hose now butts up against the cap. Inside the threaded rail cap, a 1/4" brass tubing ferrule sits over the stub of the fitting that passes through the cap, effectively replaceing the ball-bearing duty while allowing fuel to pass through to the gauge port.
Theoretically, since the ball bearing does the original sealing at the flared end of the rail, you could easly drill & tap your existing rail cap, then install it again with the original ball seal after testing is done. Theoretically. For me the cap was cheap and an easy add-on to a parts pick-up from 928 International, plus it gets used on others' cars a lot more often than on mine, so having a dedicated piece in the gauge kit made more sense for me.
#14
Nordschleife Master
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You should NOT just tap the cap nut. You must seal on the flange inside, hence the ball bearing inside.
There are many ways to do this. I took a fitting from my fuel line test kit and drilled out the cap to accept it. Sort of like a ferrule. It has a quick change end that seals so I can just pop the fuel pressure gauge on whenever I need too.
There are many ways to do this. I took a fitting from my fuel line test kit and drilled out the cap to accept it. Sort of like a ferrule. It has a quick change end that seals so I can just pop the fuel pressure gauge on whenever I need too.