Ducman82

ya, this is true, but man my AC is working SOOO well... :-)

Alan

Late pod motors do a half cycle only for up and just reverse direction for back down. Early motors do a half cycle for up - and then do another half cycle in the same direction for down. I don't think the motor was changed due to the condenser - too expensive of a solution. It's actually easier to align the up stop correctly and stays better aligned over time with the reversing motor - reason: there are specific up/down stop brackets with adjusters so the endpoints have precise locations.

Retrofitting requires a late relay. Late type (S4+) relays have 4 internal relays, while early style have only 3. The relay can is the same physical size and goes in the same place but has different connections. Lots of work to change this - probably more work & $$ than a new smaller/ different condenser would be.

Alan

SharkSkin

So is mine, FWIW.

If you have the same model condenser as Rob showed, you probably wouldn't lose much if anything by going to the style I have. My AC guru told me that a parallel flow type condenser tends to be more efficient than a round tube type and allows better flow to the radiator behind it. There are a number of reasons, like reduced cross-section in the flow path increases flow, while the oval shape means the air flows close to more surface area as it moves through, plus there is more surface area exposed to the coolant(multiple internal channels) and less tendency for the internal flow to become stratified. Some interesting reading on this here, and a pic below showing how the internal walls add surface area. In short, I bet the smaller condenser would perform at least as well as what you have.

Ducman82

i don't know what to say people......


I AM A PRO (crazy)

I converted a 1981 CE panel Headlight Relay base to one from an 87 AND the headlight MOTOR!!!!

WOOOOOOO

it was way easier that i thought it would be. most of the pins stayed the same, 2 sets needed to be swapped, a few spliced, and one small pin added...

YES!!!!!


now, the lights go all the way up, then they back down a tad. If i screw it up manually all the way it hits the "stop" section and bumps (clicks) back. I adjusted the motor so that the link bar slips on to both the crank arm and the light bar with no fuss....... thoughts?

Alan

Are the headlamp pods becoming detached from the carrier at the bottom of the travel ... I think that is the issue here..

Aan

Ducman82

nope! turned out i just id not have the "crank arm" adjusted right. i popped the lights up, loosened the arm and re attached while holding the lights up. Nice an aligned now.

SharkSkin

Awesome! So, this is wiring changes to make the later motor a drop-in replacement?

So, did you document the changes so you can share/revert/tell the next owner?

Sounds like a great mod, my main concern would be a subsequent owner trying to put the correct parts for the MY into there and tearing their hair out or worse, frying some wire.

Ducman82

i did write it all down and make a diagram. i was too lazy to take lots of pictures. the later motor for sure will be a direct drop in/swap now.

not to worries about any future owner problems. between me swapping the top portion of the CE panel from an early style fuse to later ATC fuses (makes life so much better) and my mega squirt conversion, any headlight relay issues would be cake.

SharkSkin

Ah, one of those...