Timing ??
#1
Timing ??
Purchased a non running non complete 1985 32v some time ago. Replaced fuel pump, fuel lines,fluids, TPS, MAF and a few other things. It started up and ran pretty decent.
Have come to do the timing belt & water pump and going by the notches on the cam sprockets it looks like the timing is off. Have crank at TDC and notches are as shown In pictures. Is it possible belt has jumped a notch or that it was fitted incorrectly before ?.
Have come to do the timing belt & water pump and going by the notches on the cam sprockets it looks like the timing is off. Have crank at TDC and notches are as shown In pictures. Is it possible belt has jumped a notch or that it was fitted incorrectly before ?.
#2
Looks like the previous wrench didn't get it right, or you don't have it at TDC. You should be fine though, yank the belt and do it right.
#5
Rennlist Member
#6
Drifting
If the marks are aligned at 0 TDC then the timing is about 15 degrees off (a few more on the LHS).
But that depends on the gears being original and never removed. As the mounting slots allow some leeway the timing can be accurate without the marks being perfectly aligned, depending on exactly what position the gears were installed.
But that depends on the gears being original and never removed. As the mounting slots allow some leeway the timing can be accurate without the marks being perfectly aligned, depending on exactly what position the gears were installed.
#7
Stratfordshark , 15deg is about right. With cam notches aligned the crank marker is between the 10 & 20 marks. The car ran pretty decent considering the last safety inspection was 2008. I just let it idle, and put it in drive & reverse to check transmission. Timing belt will be off tonight.Thanks for all the replys.
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#9
Rennlist Member
If the marks are aligned at 0 TDC then the timing is about 15 degrees off (a few more on the LHS).
But that depends on the gears being original and never removed. As the mounting slots allow some leeway the timing can be accurate without the marks being perfectly aligned, depending on exactly what position the gears were installed.
But that depends on the gears being original and never removed. As the mounting slots allow some leeway the timing can be accurate without the marks being perfectly aligned, depending on exactly what position the gears were installed.
The Gear "V"' notches don't mean a thing if the Gears are not indexed exactly on the Cams!
You need a PK 32vr to do it w/o removing the cam covers, else you could be making it worse.
Dave K
Last edited by davek9; 06-17-2015 at 01:23 PM.
#10
Rennlist Member
Timing ??
yes, my 78 ran great. it overheated due to failing thermo switch (I guess thar did it) so I blew a head gasket. when I started to dismantle the engine I noticed there was no way to lign up the camshafts at TDC. one looked like it was 30 degrees off. But it ran great and started at a flick of the switch. I wonder how that was possible
#11
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
As both gears look off about the same (advanced), I might think the belt was strung wrong or has skipped one tooth at the crank gear due to low tension.
One cam gear tooth is 7.5 crank degrees, one crank tooth is 15°. The slots allow for about a two tooth movement. For the notch to be somewhat lined up with the cams, the rotor bolt holes need to be centered in the slots (one hole is offset).
One cam gear tooth is 7.5 crank degrees, one crank tooth is 15°. The slots allow for about a two tooth movement. For the notch to be somewhat lined up with the cams, the rotor bolt holes need to be centered in the slots (one hole is offset).
#12
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
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Just drive it up here to Sean, and let him sort it out right. Cinch the tensioner a tad, and come on up. We'll have a pahtee and shoot some bang, bang.
BTW, I think it was strung wrong from the get-go. If it had jumped a tooth on the crank, I believe the tick marks would be to the LEFT of the blacking plate. In this case, they are to the right of the backing plate. Although, it could have certainly skipped backward a tooth during shut down.
Agree that using the Vr32 degree device is good investment, or if you can borrow/rent do that while you are in there. Check your crank seal for leakage. It's a be-otch to get at it later, and not much more work once the bits are off the shaft. Do not get the shaft - knowwhatahmean?
BTW, I think it was strung wrong from the get-go. If it had jumped a tooth on the crank, I believe the tick marks would be to the LEFT of the blacking plate. In this case, they are to the right of the backing plate. Although, it could have certainly skipped backward a tooth during shut down.
Agree that using the Vr32 degree device is good investment, or if you can borrow/rent do that while you are in there. Check your crank seal for leakage. It's a be-otch to get at it later, and not much more work once the bits are off the shaft. Do not get the shaft - knowwhatahmean?
#13
Thanks for all the replies & suggestions. The belt was slack, not even registering any load on the spring of the tension tool. I removed the tensioner and it literally fell apart. The rubber boot was rotten so the part which contacts the spring just fell out.
Water pump and tensioner parts due next week so plenty time to clean down there. If anybody in the Houston area has the Porken timing tool would love to rent/borrow it for a day or two. Thanks.
Water pump and tensioner parts due next week so plenty time to clean down there. If anybody in the Houston area has the Porken timing tool would love to rent/borrow it for a day or two. Thanks.
#14
Rennlist Member
What part of Houston are you in? I'm in Cypress and have the PK cam timing tool, and an extra flywheel lock for sale if you need it. We also have a Google Group of Houston owners that I can invite you too if you're interested, just send me a PM with your email address.