Landseer

Ken did create a system whereby the 16V car is converted to 85 cam gears and the gears can be adjusted with a tool similar to the 32V'r called the 16V'r. I have inherited this setup from Jim Doerr, who was an early adopter of the economical go fast stuff, along with a variable pressure fuel regulator. I think it was written about 10 years ago or so here, and it was apparently the stuff back then, short of a DR supercharger kit.

For exhaust, the MSDS headers into a Y and a single was loud and strong.

For those with 16V Euro LH Jets, did John Speaks devise a way to shark tune them? I know he made some kind of mod to the LH jet brain for the euro along with a timing change button, cause I inherited that setup too.

Point is there was some effort back when the 16V cars were more the center of attention, must be in the archives here.

mark kibort

this is a Ljet car. the best he can do is just install the 4.7euro motor and enjoy with all the Ljet fixings left alone.

Mongo

There are some who have dropped Megasquirt into these cars with successful results. The car runs better and gained more power due to a more efficient fuel management system.

Holley released a standalone EFI called the HP. I am curious to know how user friendly it is compared to MS3 or Microsquirt.

mark kibort

anything to get rid of the AFM will yeild about 15hp. However, you have to look at the hassle factor. the AFM does a great job for getting the car to run clean and reliably. dont know if the standalone is the answer for HP gains.

I cant imagine a better system for fuel efficiency with the AFM. it works very well and is incredibly reliable.

Jetdriver69

As mentioned before and if your state allows it, get rid of the Cat, install 85 exhaust manifolds, y pipe it with a O2 bung, Borla SS cat back exhaust.

Delete all emission piping, aux electric fan, viscous fan, air pump and install any number of aftermarket electric puller fans. I sold all the extra parts which paid for my new electric fan.

Advance the timing a couple of degrees.

I did all the above on my old 82 and it did make a difference, but it is still an underpowered 4.5L no matter what you do. Besides it just looks fast sitting there anyway.

Mongo

Mark, look up Rogue Tuning in the 944 forum. They did an MAF conversion for 944 8v NA cars that was/is highly successful.

I don't see why anyone else here cannot do it who is knowledgeable in PROM creation and voltages.

123quattro

I guess what I wrote could be confusing. What I meant was I'll sell the engine and exhaust for $3000. Not the car with the engine.

danglerb

85/86 manifold rarely sell for more than $200, any new header is going to be more than twice that amount due to very very very very small market. The factory ones are stainless, they don't seem to wear out, nether do the early cast iron manifolds, again tiny market for replacement.

The only real issue with them is that you end up with a 2" gap on one side because the 85/86 heads have the exhaust ports an inch forward on one side, and an inch back on the other vs the old 16v heads, which means a custom Y or H to the cats, or some kind of spacer, which IMHO is too expensive. Its pesky enough I've been tempted to have them copied without the offset so they fit a 16v, but that quickly gets expensive.

Landseer

The fitment question seemed scary at first.
Solution for me in three different cities has been to find a local independent muffler guy who makes a living patching rusty exhausts in situ. That guy always gets a kick out of modifying the downpipes a tad to fit or bending/fitting some a custom piece or two.

danglerb

Two cents on power;
Most of the changes will have zero effect below 3500 rpm, the torque on a US motor and a Euro motor are about the same, only the top end HP goes up.
This isn't NASCAR where a trick worth a few HP give you an edge. Less than 10% increases you won't notice after a few weeks, hence the appeal of louder mufflers.
Figure out what you really want in terms of power, or just make a budget, spend it, and try to be happy. Changing your mind costs about as much as starting from scratch.
Take all dyno results with a huge grain of salt. Roller dyno's are not made to measure anything in absolute terms, just one run vs another, not actual HP or torque, which all of them estimate with little accuracy.

danglerb

I've got a real good muffler shop near me, and they can kludge up an adapter for not that much money, but more than $50, this is SoCal. The catch is that I would really like to do it right, but haven't decided what that is yet, so my Euro with the 85/86 manifolds has a messy Y to the cat for now.

mark kibort

I did it and used (tried it) and it was a complete mess. I even made an adapter for the mustang maf. the voltages are diff, so the thing didn't work. sent it all back.

mark kibort

clearly the early cars get a boost on power from beginning to end with headers exhaust change. its like the hp curve was shifted up 10hp top to bottom. cams were the only thing that gave and took.

Mongo

You need to find a MAF with the same voltages and have a PROM specially programmed to handle the different values and airflow. To me it sounds like you did the MAF swap rather than using a chip to compensate.

As a quick note, look for a MAF with a voltage range of 0-7.5v or 0-8. The 928 L-Jet's voltage range is 0.9-7.5.

mark kibort

yep, that was the voltage diff issue. but the maf came with the kit and said would work... our system (ljet) needs the higher voltage, and the 944 system is motronic , and works off a lower voltage.. it was a mess , so just send it back.
but i have a nice adapter that will make the US ljet air box fit on a MAF and bolt to the stock U!
anyone interested. nice piece.. 50$ to have made.