Don.

I've been meaning to check the dual plate clutch on my '86 to see if its properly adjusted, and I noticed that some of the bolt heads are blocked by the headers/cat. Do you have to remove the cat/exhaust to get the housing cover off or is there some special tool/trick to it? I can imagine a specially angled combo wrench that could get those off. All the shop manual says is "some models may need to remove the catalytic converter". I've been loathe to remove the cat, as I've heard that you may need to remove the entire exhaust to avoid destroying the exhaust hangers. Anyone BTDT recently?

-Don

GlenL

No specific experience with the cat problem. Mine drops between the pipes.

I have figured out how to get the cover off more easily over time. Not sure if this applies to your model, but what the heck:

* Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the clutch hose to the oil pan.
* Loosen the two bolts that are at the forwards cover corners a half inch.
* Remove the other four cover bolts. (all 13mm)
* Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the slave to the housing.
* Pull the slave away from the housing and get the shaft out, gently.
* Tie a rope from the starter to the sway bar so assembly will not hang on wires
* Remove the last two cover bolts. Leave starter attached.
* Let starter and cover hang from sway bar. Or just prop it up if the car isn't too high.

"Installation is the reverse of removal."

The main reason I do this it that I don't have to disconnect the slave cylinder. No brake fluid drains out and no clutch bleeding is required. Also, the hard line to the clutch runs in front of the upper bolt for the starter making that hard to get off beforehand.

A 13mm socket with built-in swivel is handy for a lot of things on this car. I use on to get around the pipes on this job.

John Veninger

You need to loosen the aftermarket headers if you have them. Most cars need the exhaust disconnected to get access.

Don.

Thanks Guys, it looks like I'll have to disconnect the exhaust and get one of those swivel sockets.

-Don

Jim bailey - 928 International

Don there should be no need to look at the clutch IF IT IS WORKING correctly . If it is slipping under load or dragging not disengaging there is a problem but the assembly is designed to self adjust and compensate for wear . Looking in the inspection hole near the slave cylinder for years 78-82 the clutch is worn when the arm first is visible through the hole . 1983 and newer it is worn when the front edge of the arm reaches the end of the hole all the way forward ....The cover should come off with stock exhaust in place .

Don.

Hey Jim,
The clutch is working but I just want to make sure the two plates have equal clearance. I've heard that can have an effect on clutch feel. I can feel the clutch start grabbing about 1/3 of the way off the floor, but it doesn't really kick in til about 2/3 of the way up. Sometimes under heavy throttle I get fooled and think the clutch is fully engaged only to find out that dumping it the last inch or so causes the car to jerk a little bit. Through the inspection hole the clutch slave seems to get getting the appropriate amount of deflection, and the clutch is relatively new (few thousand miles old). The clutch is tens of thousands of miles old on my 911 but the engagement point is razor sharp. I know the dual plate clutch is different, but is it unreasonable to expect a clear engagement point for it? Or is that just the way these clutches feel?

-Don

GlenL

I'll venture an opinion:

It sounds like your clutch is OK. The adjustment is to eliminate dragging. That's where the disks never stop touching the plates. If you can get into reverse cleanly, you don't need to adjust them.

If you want a more crisp feel, maybe try bleeding the clutch. This is notably tricky and is not as easy as brakes. Check the email archives and www.nichols.nu for details.