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I know this thread is going off topic, so I'll add my comment on the OP's SS backing plates, why SS, wouldn't aluminum (like stock) be the better/lighter choice?
Do like your effort though
I added 330mm Cayenne Rotors and S4 Calipers to my '85 manual, it does pull down hard now, however have to be careful w/o anti-lock on flat spotting the tires.
When I made the adapters for Wes I did it from his drawing. We both failed to note that the drawing was for a 12.5 inch Boxster rotor when in fact he was working with 13 inch rotors. The first pair of adapters did not work, so I made him another pair for the larger rotors. I still now have the adapters for Lexus Calipers to the 928 and using a 12.5 inch Boxster rotors. I don't know just how much benefit that might allow, but if anyone is interested in the first pair of adapters I made, they are available.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 12-05-2023 at 11:06 PM.
I know this thread is going off topic, so I'll add my comment on the OP's SS backing plates, why SS, wouldn't aluminum (like stock) be the better/lighter choice?
Do like your effort though
I added 330mm Cayenne Rotors and S4 Calipers to my '85 manual, it does pull down hard now, however have to be careful w/o anti-lock on flat spotting the tires.
Dave K
Originally Posted by Jerry Feather
When I made the adapters for Wes I did it from his drawing. We both failed to note that the drawing was for a 12.5 inch Boxster rotor when in fact he was working with 13 inch rotors. The first pair of adapters did not work, so I make him another pair for the larger rotor. I still now have the adapters for Lexus Calipers to the 928 and using a 12.5 inch Boxster rotor. I don't know just how much benefit that might allow, but if anyone is interested in the first pair of adapters I made, they are available.
Dave who made your adapters?
To all -am I correct in assuming that adapters are UNIQUE for each different caliper that you might use?? say it is a 355MM rotor but a Brembo 6 piston caliper vs a 4 piston - Different adapters
and adapters have to be VERY PRECISE so that the rotor travels in the exact space and angle that prevents excess rubbing/wobbling
How did this thread get away from backing plates to brake modifications? Doesn't the discussion about brakes need its own thread?
Yeah maybe we can make a separate Brake upgrade thread. Part of the same system though and I tried to let Banacek know in a nice way I thought this was a waste of time.
I am a welder (trade school TIG) and like to make things, (fabricator). This is the last item in the car I would try to reproduce.
Hi everybody, I have owned for 4 years a 1989 s4 manual that I use for week end trip around Norway but the main event is the usual summer trip down to Italy with wife, kid and luggage
On a Sunday morning spirited driving, alone, empty road and half a tank of gas or less breaking is okish but it could do better, in 4 years of owning the car I never was able to lock the tires.
With a summer trip ready car and family onboard I would definitely prefer to have better stopping power just for safety reasons especially on the german autobahn
Reading around i noticed that braided steel lines, proper pads and if possible an adjustment in the front rear bias seem to go a long way, I have seen that Goodridge G-stop brake line seem to be an excellent upgrade but I have some issues finding out which pads could be a proper solution for my specific situation, same for the valve that adjust the bias, need to find a source for it.
In the next weeks I have to replace the clutch pedal cylinder cause has a small leak which requires flushing the breaks and I would like to do all at once if possible.
It would be great if someone had some suggestion for my case :-)
Hi everybody, I have owned for 4 years a 1989 s4 manual that I use for week end trip around Norway but the main event is the usual summer trip down to Italy with wife, kid and luggage
On a Sunday morning spirited driving, alone, empty road and half a tank of gas or less breaking is okish but it could do better, in 4 years of owning the car I never was able to lock the tires.
With a summer trip ready car and family onboard I would definitely prefer to have better stopping power just for safety reasons especially on the german autobahn
Reading around i noticed that braided steel lines, proper pads and if possible an adjustment in the front rear bias seem to go a long way, I have seen that Goodridge G-stop brake line seem to be an excellent upgrade but I have some issues finding out which pads could be a proper solution for my specific situation, same for the valve that adjust the bias, need to find a source for it.
In the next weeks I have to replace the clutch pedal cylinder cause has a small leak which requires flushing the breaks and I would like to do all at once if possible.
It would be great if someone had some suggestion for my case :-)
forgot to say car is fully stock
If changing your brake master, change your brake booster at the same. That, new stainless lines, and some Hawk HPS pads and you'll be able to pick the brakes no problem. When I test drove my 81 Euro S it would barely stop. After replacing all of the above, it would lock the brakes even with the 235 and 275 new tires I was running and that was with the smaller brakes on the 81 Euro S compared to what your car has, so your braking should be just fine once the system is working as intended.
There is nothing inadequate about the S4 brakes and if you cannot get the ABS system to chime in then there is something not quite right. The stock pads take some beating, I used Hawk Street plus as they were called in the day and they felt great. The GTS caiipers and discs are a step up but they are not cheap. Stainless braided lines also help a bit. The rear bias valve is only really needed if you intend to do some track work and the 33 barg bias valve helps facilitate trail breaking some.
If you are going to do the work yourself make sure you have a Power Bleeder system- I pump mine up to 15 psig and pump up if and when it drops to 10 psig.
12-05-2023, 03:39 PM
