GMark1

I'm trying to update my early style 1985 32v Cam chain tensioners to 928S-4 late style but can't seem to adapt the s-4 Banjo bolt oil feed pipe to fit the early 1985 Head , any input would be appreciated

GregBBRD

There were two custom oil lines for this "update" available from Porsche....now NLA.

I know others have heated and bent lines from an S4. I wouldn't recommend doing this.....

You might try 928 International and see if they have the pieces you need to accomplish this task (They do....but they may not know what the subtile differences are. The lines you need are probably thrown into a box full of S4 lines.....when I need them, I go over and hand pick the correct ones.)

GMark1

Thanks for the reply on the s-4 chain tensioner oil lines, I live in mass so can't stop by 928. Int, was there a part # for these pipes , I know you said custom from porsche but I noticed 85 cars have different part number than 86 cars for this oil line , will late 86 ones be right ones

ROG100

Tensioner Oil Pipe to make 87 tensioner work on an 85S3 - Cyl 1-4 928 105 213 03
Tensioner Oil Pipe to make 87 tensioner work on an 85S3 - Cyl 5-8 928 105 214 03

Call Mark at 928 Intl for used ones

rifitz

I just told Tom at 928 Int'l what I wanted to do-- he sent everything I needed-- no problems

davek9

I picked up used S4 Tensioners from 928 International however, no S3 to S4 oil pipes

Looking like I'll need to mod these to fit, any suggestions or anyone have any later S3 oil pipes laying around?

The Stock S4 oil pipes are on the left side of these pics, the Stock later S3 heads to S4 tensioner pipes are on the right.

As can be seen it the pic's the 5-8 side is relativity easy, only some small tubing bends required.
However the 1-4 side will require turning the Banjo fitting 90 degrees to make it fit.

davek9

Looking for advice on what solder to use, I'm thinking the same I use on Plumbing fixtures?

Here is the problem: the Pads are NLA for the older type Chain tensioners and also the Tensioners were upgraded on the mid MY86 to the type used on the S4's.
However the S3 heads are a bit different and require unique Oil Feed Tubes to use the S4 Tensioners.

The tube for the 5-8 head are still available (and not all that different) but the more complex 1-4 head oil feed tube is NLA.

My solution is to mod the S4 oil feed tube to fit the S3 Head and use the S4 tensioner.

As can be see from the previous and the pic below the S4 tube is longer then the NLA part and one banjo fitting needs to be rotated.
My solution would be to cut off the banjo and drill out the banjo and refit it onto the pipe and solder.

Thoughts and or recommendations please.
Thank you,

Dave

V2Rocket

Watching this thread for results...same situation.
That said, I (should still) have a pair of decent-looking original S3 chain tensioners...yours for cost of shipping, if you want them.

M. Requin

If the OP doesn't jump on this I certainly would!

davek9

I really do thank you for that offer, however it sounds like you have stock Older S3 and I'm looking for a working solution for the S4 upgrade so I can used them and also replace the old plastic.

I want to have fresh plastic and want to used the newer updated S4 tensioners as the original S3 had pressure and binding issues.

As for the oil pipes the Banjo bolt holes are a different size at the tensioner end and will not work on an S4 tensioner installed in an S3 Head.

The one's I have pictured marked as "S3" are the upgraded NLA part that were produced to do the S4 tensioner upgrade on '85 and early '86 and I only have one set left, thus using them to mock up a fix using the stock S4 oil pipe.

If you do have the NLA part (just the tube) then yes and I'll gladly pay you 50 bucks for one.

Thanks for the offer,

Dave

Lizard928

One can easily rotate the ends and use S4 oil tubes.
Some disagree, but I've done it numerous times without any problems. The lines show no fatigue or stress marks when done properly.
I do not and would not use heat as this will cause the solder to let go.

FredR

Presumably these things are brazed [silver solder]- is it really that difficult to have something like this fabricated? If some factory could make them surely a suitably qualified can knock something up.

I have see this type f issue previously in that artesans skilled in such arts are dying out in the western world- ironically we seem to have plenty of such characters over here would you believe invariably from the Indian sub continent. I had a problem with my custom fabricated radiator that needed modification. Took it down town to the industrial area, asked around and they sent to a back street shack with some old boy from Afghanistan who said he could do the job. Figured the item was useless without modification so what the heck. He took out a gas torch, produced an aluminium rod of some kind and five minutes job done- the bill?- $5. I was delighted, he was probably happy because he thought he had screwed a white man- a true win-win!

I suppose the issue over there is if you find someone who can do the job they probably charge an arm and a leg!

Rgds

Fred

davek9

Thanks for the replies and Info guys!

Also I found out that the part Roger listed for the 5-8 side doesn't work (too long) and sent them back so now I need to "reform" not bend both 1-4 and 5-8

Just wondering why no heat?
These appear to be both crimped and soldered.
I was thinking they were crimped in a jig to retain correct alignment and then soldered for sealing.

New S4 seem to run about 27 bucks each, hopefully I won't trash to many.

Dave

mikeb7

So are all your pics above of s4 pipes next to later s3 or early s3 pipes?

Are we suggesting here then that there is actually a 4th set of pipes that were once available out there (the upgrade/conversion pipes), in addition to early s3/85, later s3/86 pipes, and s4/87+ pipes?

If I have an 85 and am converting to later tensioners, what's my best starting point for modifying pipes? Modify my original 85 pipes, the later 86 pipes I'd found (but which you're saying don't fit either), or get a set of s4/87 pipes to modify? Do any have the correct twist (esp on the 1-4 side) so that the mods are mostly just a little length or clearance bend?

davek9

There are three types of Pipes:

1. Early S3 ('85-early '86) that fit the early style S3 Tensioner (banjo bolt holes are smaller on the Tensioner end) and the tensioner mounting bolts have fixed washers and won't fit into the S4 tensioners recess mounting holes.

These Early S3 Tensioners had issues and there were tech bulletins about modifications to solve oil pressure issues, binding and tappet clacking, also the chain pads are NLA and most of them are badly worn out that I find (grooved).

2. Later S3's (most 86.5) starting using the S4 Tensioners and the (special) Pipes were made to adapt these S4 tensioners to the S3 Heads.

From what I've seen if the 86.5 S3 has the updated S3 one-piece Cam cover bolts they usually have the updated S4 tensioners installed utilizing these factory pipes. However not all as some cam cover bolts were updated by dealers/others servicing leaking cam covers w/o touching the chain tensioners.

3. S4 Tensioners and pipes, new pad(s) are readily available and used Tensioners are too, however the pipes to adapt them to the S3 heads are not, and the factory supplied S3 to S4 pipes are NLA.

My Pic with the S3 and S4 (1-4) shows the later S3 pipe (NLA part) next to an S4 pipe, as can be seen they will require reshaping in order to fit the S4 tensioner onto an S3 head.

I'm seeking the best way to do it, "lizard928" says just do it w/o heat, at 27 bucks a pop new I haven't tried it yet, however I need to get it done on one of mine this weekend.