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Old 09-26-2016, 10:31 PM
  #16  
martinss
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I had a problem with a number of gauges and lights acting strangely after I reinstalled the pod on my '88.

The gas gauge pegged at Full even when empty, and the temperature gauge would peg if I turned on the side lights. I found that the ground wire pin in the leftmost ribbon plug was pushing out. It had never been properly seated even from the factory as the marks on the ribbon showed; see the sixth connector from the left in this picture - it has just a small dent where the pins from the plug engaged (btw #'s1, 11 & 12 are not used in an '88)

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When I went back to look at the connecter, the corresponding terminal had pushed out of the back of the plug. My diagnosis was that it had been partly out since new, but was pushed all the way back when i reinstalled. Once it was reinstalled all affected circuits then worked.
Old 09-26-2016, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by martinss
I had a problem with a number of gauges and lights acting strangely after I reinstalled the pod on my '88.

The gas gauge pegged at Full even when empty, and the temperature gauge would peg if I turned on the side lights. I found that the ground wire pin in the leftmost ribbon plug was pushing out. It had never been properly seated even from the factory as the marks on the ribbon showed; see the sixth connector from the left in this picture - it has just a small dent where the pins from the plug engaged (btw #'s1, 11 & 12 are not used in an '88)



When I went back to look at the connecter, the corresponding terminal had pushed out of the back of the plug. My diagnosis was that it had been partly out since new, but was pushed all the way back when i reinstalled. Once it was reinstalled all affected circuits then worked.
Amazing. You must felt like you won the Lottery. I know I would have!

As for all good things, I will wait until I feel a bit more refreshed before tackling this quagmire again. I will deoxit, rub it with an eraser and double check the connections again.

I have also noticed that a pod is for sale in Hamilton (listed on Kijiji) and will see what condition this is in and perhaps go that route. Time will tell.

I really appreciate your taking the time to share this. +1
Old 09-27-2016, 11:45 AM
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Well, I can say that it's getting more curious... While driving it this morning, I turned the lights off and the tach added an extra 1000 to the rpm. In addition, the oil pressure guage is no longer pegged at the max but rather shows 3 bars now.

I may go the route of a replacement guage cluster as I have found one at an affordable price. At a minimum, I will remove it, re-install and report. Hopefully this weekend.
Old 09-27-2016, 04:03 PM
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I would still clean all grounds - then double check. The various grounds can affect many things, for instance, the ground in the rear by the spare tire can affect speedo/odo/tach. This is a no cost step.
Old 09-27-2016, 06:15 PM
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Wisconsin Joe
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It worked before, right?
And all you did was take it out, change the bulbs and put it back?

I'm guessing you didn't get good contact somewhere (or multiple "somewheres") when you put it back together.

Take it back out, clean up all the contact points on the plugs. Cleaning the contacts where the gauges take their signal off of the plastic is probably a good idea too.

If you found the pod removal/install difficult, pull up Dwayne's writuep. There are links to it in the "New Visitor" sticky. After doing it a few times, it gets easier.
Old 09-27-2016, 07:54 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe
It worked before, right?
And all you did was take it out, change the bulbs and put it back?

....
no Joe - as I read his OP, he has had electrical gremlins all along, including with the cluster. He needs a deeper dive. It does not sound like the typical last thing done, although that may have certainly exacerbated the problem. OP, please correct if I am wrong.
Old 09-27-2016, 09:55 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by curtisr
Sigh, my long-lived love affair with my '82 may very well be coming to an end.

After a well-researched rehearsal, I removed the pod in order to have a look at the lights in the dash panel and, of course, replace the ones that were no longer working. To my mind this would be all of them as the interior light fuse was fine, and I am sure that they had worked before but it just wasn't lighting up my life.

I've owned the car for five years now and have experienced much in the way of electrical gremlins playing havoc with my wits but no amount of effort was going to see me through this. It got worse and not better. Now it's not just the dash lights but the gauges too. While I'm sorta used to having the gauges--in turn--work today but not necessarily tomorrow I wasn't prepared for what seems like a complete reversal (in fortune).

Now:

a) none of the dash lighting is working. The idiot lights are good (thank goodness) but there is no illumination. I hope that tying the potentiometer lines together will fix this. This goes for the switches (lights, fog lights, etc) as well.

b) the voltage indicator worked perfectly at first and the next day it doesn't work at all

c) the gas gauge is now pegged at 4/4 where it used to be stuck at 1/4

d) the tachometer doesn't show anything until I am going down the street. It seems to be off (low) by a thousand or more

e) the speedometer is also showing a much lowered number: 60 miles an hour shows up as 30 mph.

f) the mpg gauge isn't registering anything now

g) the coolant temperature starts and stays pegged at max, and

h) the oil pressure is also reading max whereas it used to work properly.

Naturally, I checked the electrical connections to make sure each had the correct orientation and placement and I think I returned everything as it was.

It's just that I so DO NOT want to remove the pod again!!!

Suggestions are more than welcome. I'll be in the garage waiting.
I have no idea how many clusters we've removed, in my shop....literally hundreds.

One of the really quick things you learn is that the act of removing and re-installing will almost always leave you with additional problems that you did not have before....and getting another cluster will only open up another can of worms.

You're going to have to toughen up some, to get your "928 mechanic shoulder patch".

And BTW....you need to pay attention to what the people are telling you, here.

You've got a funky ground.
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:19 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by linderpat
I would still clean all grounds - then double check. The various grounds can affect many things, for instance, the ground in the rear by the spare tire can affect speedo/odo/tach. This is a no cost step.
One of the first things I did was clean the grounds and used contact cleaner (deoxit) on a variety of connectors including the fuel sending unit male and female connections. This did not bring about a change. To be honest, I have as yet not touched the ones on the engine block.

Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe
It worked before, right?
And all you did was take it out, change the bulbs and put it back?
Yes and yes. The gauges did work correctly from the getgo; however, the speedometer (and, as a result, the mpg meter) became intermittent after a couple of years and now that is also the case for the voltage indicator.

Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe
I'm guessing you didn't get good contact somewhere (or multiple "somewheres") when you put it back together.
Probably??? I reached up under the pod and pushed/wiggled the three male connectors that I could reach after it was apparent that things weren't behaving as they should.

Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe
Take it back out, clean up all the contact points on the plugs. Cleaning the contacts where the gauges take their signal off of the plastic is probably a good idea too.
Wilco.

Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe
If you found the pod removal/install difficult, pull up Dwayne's writuep. There are links to it in the "New Visitor" sticky. After doing it a few times, it gets easier.
My source of 'hand-holding' and inspiration was this: http://928intl.com/tips/Instrument%2...epair%20II.htm
Old 09-27-2016, 10:31 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
One of the really quick things you learn is that the act of removing and re-installing will almost always leave you with additional problems that you did not have before.
That's not very encouraging but I believe it.

Originally Posted by GregBBRD
You're going to have to toughen up some, to get your "928 mechanic shoulder patch".
That's funny! I, too, have likened this to getting a Boy Scout badge and the possibility of not being successful has certainly crossed my mind...lol!

Originally Posted by GregBBRD
And BTW....you need to pay attention to what the people are telling you, here. You've got a funky ground.
Makes sense. There may be some disagreement in earlier posts but, I have seen what happens when there is insufficient voltage going to relays/fuses.

I will rest, regenerate and make time for this. On the weekends.

Thank you--and everyone--for the kindly, helpful advice. You're all the best.
Old 09-27-2016, 10:37 PM
  #25  
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Curtis,
You mentioned those three male plugs that you wiggled: iirc they each have two little clips that hold them secure into the female plug. They break off easily and may have been broken/missing before you touched them. When you take out the pod again, easy to check the clips. If one is missing, you may not be getting a secure connection. I had to put a drop of hot glue on the end of one of my plugs to keep it seated properly. Easy enough to pick off the glue for servicing but strong enough to hold the plug secure.

All other advise superseding, but still an easy item to check
Old 09-27-2016, 10:50 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Ladybug83
Curtis,
You mentioned those three male plugs that you wiggled: iirc they each have two little clips that hold them secure into the female plug. They break off easily and may have been broken/missing before you touched them. When you take out the pod again, easy to check the clips. If one is missing, you may not be getting a secure connection. I had to put a drop of hot glue on the end of one of my plugs to keep it seated properly. Easy enough to pick off the glue for servicing but strong enough to hold the plug secure.

All other advise superseding, but still an easy item to check
​​​There was no distinctive click so I removed the female connectors and double checked them against the write-up. Still when you know that there will be jostling and pulling I feared the worse. That's why I tried wiggling them best I could.

Thanks for the hot tip.
Old 09-27-2016, 10:59 PM
  #27  
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No worries. And my mistake, the little clips (fingers) are on the white female side, and grab onto the black male plug. Hope you find the source of the gremlin, it can be frustrating but there is great help in this forum and I suspect you'll laugh and love the car again when you find it.
Old 09-27-2016, 11:08 PM
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Thanks, Ladybug. I really appreciate your input and everybody else's. It is not my intention to waste people's time, effort and interest.
Old 09-28-2016, 08:21 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by curtisr
One of the first things I did was clean the grounds and used contact cleaner (deoxit) on a variety of connectors including the fuel sending unit male and female connections. This did not bring about a change. To be honest, I have as yet not touched the ones on the engine block...
Clean ALL of them.



Yes and yes. The gauges did work correctly from the getgo; however, the speedometer (and, as a result, the mpg meter) became intermittent after a couple of years and now that is also the case for the voltage indicator.
Contacts degrade over time. This sounds typical.



Probably??? I reached up under the pod and pushed/wiggled the three male connectors that I could reach after it was apparent that things weren't behaving as they should.
Not trying to be snarky, but this isn't something that "jiggle the handle" will fix.


My source of 'hand-holding' and inspiration was this: http://928intl.com/tips/Instrument%2...epair%20II.htm
That's a good one, but Dwayne's are the "Gold Standard."

Originally Posted by curtisr
​​​There was no distinctive click so I removed the female connectors and double checked them against the write-up. Still when you know that there will be jostling and pulling I feared the worse. That's why I tried wiggling them best I could.

Thanks for the hot tip.
There won't be any "click." The locking levers swing in and pull the plug in tight. If they aren't there, the chances of poor contact are high. Dwayne has pics that show them.

Originally Posted by curtisr
Thanks, Ladybug. I really appreciate your input and everybody else's. It is not my intention to waste people's time, effort and interest.
You aren't wasting my time...

I am

I've gotten help when I needed it, and I try to "pay it forward." As long as you keep listening (or at least pretending to) and following the suggestions, I'll keep throwing them your way.

Keep plugging away at it. This sort of thing can drive me straight up the wall.
But the satisfaction when it finally gets sorted out is worth it.

At least that's what I keep telling myself.
Old 09-30-2016, 07:10 PM
  #30  
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Progress!!!

First: I cleaned the (already clean) grounds here, there and everywhere including the multi-pin connector next to the jump post (and I do NOT mean to be snarky--I have been amazed at how little it takes to stop the flow of 12v) which, by the way, I am proud to say that I'm still in possession of its cover!!!

Secondly: Deoxit (contact cleaner) to the rescue. I gave the connections on the gauge assembly a good spray and wipe.

Anyways, I fired her up and hoped for the best. Nothing.

Kept her running and reached up into the pod and gave the right-most connector a wiggle and push. Bingo! They all came to life and stayed where they should be. Outstanding.

As for the remaining lights, I suspect that the pentiometer is done and so I will remove it, tie the lines together (as it were) and find a replacement.

Thanks one and all for your insight, guidance and willingness to help a brother out. That's the difference you folks make.


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