Oil Filler Gasket and Thermostat Housing R&R - Page 2

heinrich · 01-28-2008, 11:22 AM

No need to pull the drains, unless you're changing coolant. Mike is right I was thinking your car looks awesome ... almost new in fact.

StratfordShark · 01-28-2008, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom in Austin

What would happen if you hadn't drained the engine block (i.e. only the radiator)? Could you take out the thermostat with bridge still installed and suction out enough coolant that way to avoid spilling a bunch when the manifold came out?

I asked a couple of days ago whether you had to drain rad, block or both to do this job.

Was advised that if you remove top hose from radiator and catch what comes out that will drain enough water out of the bridge to let you take it off.

When I changed my t-stat and seal I drained the rad first, and remember that you could see the water below the o-ring of the bridge but there was no water in the bridge itself, certainly not enough to drain out of the t-stat elbow.

I'm in the middle of intake job so don't want to risk any coolant getting in the oil filler or the front cylinders. If anyone thinks it's not safe to just drain via the top hose then I'll drain the whole rad.

Dwayne · 01-28-2008, 04:17 PM

I edited the post/procedure for leaving the crossbrace attached until after the car is lifted and supported on jackstands and added re-attaching the crossbrace before lowering the car. I believe this is a better procedure/order. THANKS for the comments/recommendations!!!

borland · 01-28-2008, 04:18 PM

Congrats on the new addition.

I could add, that you should have coated the coolant o-rings with a liberal amount of silicone grease for assembly.

This is a normal part of the top end refresh which you'll like need to perform regardless of milage. Removing the intake is quite easy.

01-28-2008, 11:22 AM	#16
heinrich 928 Collector Rennlist Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Seattle Posts: 16,084	No need to pull the drains, unless you're changing coolant. Mike is right I was thinking your car looks awesome ... almost new in fact. __________________ "Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it" ... '87 S4 5spd all leather 2.64 GZILLA 94 GTS taking years to resurrect. Proudly South African

01-28-2008, 04:17 PM	#18
Dwayne Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Ridgecrest, California Posts: 1,009	I edited the post/procedure for leaving the crossbrace attached until after the car is lifted and supported on jackstands and added re-attaching the crossbrace before lowering the car. I believe this is a better procedure/order. THANKS for the comments/recommendations!!! __________________ Dwayne 84 928 S, 'California', AT, Black/Tan, 144K miles, My DD 85 928 S, 'Iris', AT, IrisBlue/Tan, 12K miles, Wife's Baby Shark 86.5 928 S, 'Colorado', 5-Speed, Black/Tan, 137K miles, Belt Failure 87 928 S4, 'Oregon', AT, Black/Linen, 47K miles, No Sunroof!, My Next DD 87 928 S4, 'Virginia', AT, Cassisrot/Burgundy, 40K miles, No Sunroof!, Wife's DD 88 928 S4, 'Idaho', AT, White/Burgundy, 25K miles, Wife's Pampered Shark Dwayne's Garage: http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/

01-28-2008, 04:18 PM	#19
borland User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Camarillo, CA, USA Posts: 1,555	Congrats on the new addition. I could add, that you should have coated the coolant o-rings with a liberal amount of silicone grease for assembly. This is a normal part of the top end refresh which you'll like need to perform regardless of milage. Removing the intake is quite easy.