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#16 |
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Super User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,210
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Fabulous, just what I need, doing it next weekend!
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k |
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#17 |
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Petie3rd
Rennlist Member Join Date: May 2004
Location: Aurora Colorado
Posts: 7,593
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make sure that you have a an additional hole (small) drilled into the top of the catch can otherwise you will be pressurizing it and then when you remove the hose from the bleeder the fluid will push out from the pressurized bottle
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#18 |
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Super User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,210
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Thanks, duly noted.
jp |
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#19 |
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Addict
Rennlist Member Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Abbotsford B.C.
Posts: 4,896
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I used one of these and was not overly impressed with the pedal feel afterwards, and while I did everything the same, when I went back to the old 2 person method the brakes felt much much better after and I did see some air come out. But I was working on a practically dry system.
As to brake fluid do not run DOT 5 unless you flush everything out and replace all seals. You can however run DOT 5.1, 4 or 3 DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3, and 4 systems but has a much higher boiling point. I run wilwood 600+ in one car, and wilwood 675 in the other cars. I find that I have much better pedal feel and even with the 575 in the car, I experianced ZERO brake fade on a track that every other 928 that has run has seen fade. Good post btW Dwayne.
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Colin J JDS Porsche Western Canada Supplier. Don't steal, the government hates competition!1981 928S Euro, S4 bumper caps, 86 engine, currently undergoing MASSIVE changes. 1987 928S4 Auto 1987 928S4 5 speed They ALL have the porkensioner! |
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#20 | |
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Addict
Rennlist Member Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Sydney NSW, OZ. ex NZ, ex UK
Posts: 1,645
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Dwayne - you must be getting bored of the adulation by now. Usual in depth quality.
I was disappointed that havin bought 20ft of clear hose you didn't figure out a way of bleeding the brakes while sitting having dinner or watching TV LOL. Quote:
+1 to all that Liz. Good to dispel the confusion. |
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#21 |
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Super User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: zürich, switzerland
Posts: 2,222
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Great write-up
Did mine earlier this year with same Motive Power bleeder & dot5.1; pedal is really hard now. Only extra point I would add is do not use too much force when undoing the bleeder nipples; they are not hard to break... Maybe squirt them with some easing fluid an hour or two before you start. Marton |
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#22 |
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Addict
Rennlist Member Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sydney, Down Under
Posts: 1,354
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Nice write-up as ever.
When I did mine, I also bled the master cylinder - there's a bleed nipple on top of it, just below the reservoir, pointing up.
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Hilton '89 S4 5-speed - Guards Red, sunroofless - 157k miles '87 S4 5-speed - Grand Prix White, LSD, flip-up wing - 119k miles |
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#23 |
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Addict
Lifetime Rennlist Member Join Date: May 2001
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,533
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Nice write up.
The blue hose for the manual cars can cause a real mess and will blow off at around 15psi if it is fairly old. Sometimes first hand experience is NOT how you want to learn. Keeping it at 10-12psi and there shouldn't be a problem.
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John Veninger 1990 928GT 1980 928 6.4L(work in progress) Bent valve club! PCA National DE Instructor CVR-PCA 928OC Join Rennlist! "Don't worry about the world coming to an end today. It's already tomorrow in Australia" (Charles Schultz) |
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#24 |
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Petie3rd
Rennlist Member Join Date: May 2004
Location: Aurora Colorado
Posts: 7,593
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the reservour will come off the master with about 20 PSI, it launches like a rocket
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#25 |
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Addict
Rennlist Member Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: SC, USA
Posts: 78
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You are my hero.
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#26 |
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Addict
Rennlist Member Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Staffordshire United Kingdom
Posts: 803
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Dwayne, you the daddy! Thanks for another great write up!
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Bert '88 S4 auto - One of the fast ones......
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#27 |
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Addict
Rennlist Member |
I like the tips for removing the bleeder when finished. The way I do it is to lower the power bleeder over the fender until it rests on the ground; i.e. lower than the master cylinder. Then, when I gradually loosen the cap on the reservoir it seems to suck excess fluid back down into the power bleeder, and I only have to do a little final topping off to get the level correct.
Something others may have noticed too ... if you wiggle the bleeder screw the least bit while the fluid is escaping you can get a long string of tiny bubbles. I think these come from the screw vicinity and not from the lines, but I ran a ton of fluid through waiting for these to stop. Also, if you're bleeding after opening the system, like for example, re-installing a caliper, it can take a long time to get all the air out of the lines. I tend to overkill and buy too much fluid to be sure I get all the bubbles out. One other note, I believe it's true after opening the system, you are supposed to re-bleed after driving the car and engaging the anti-lock system a few times. Some air can apparently get trapped in the antilock plumbing and it has to escape out into the main lines in order to be bled out. No doubt, the Motive is a handy tool and beats the heck out of any other way of doing this job.
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1994 GTS Color 83E - Raspberry Red, Interior Black over Silver Gray Featured in the "High Heels & Hot Wheels 2010" Calendar by Pcar928fan |
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#28 |
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Rennlist Emeritus
Lifetime Rennlist Member Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Insane Diego, California
Posts: 13,933
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I'll copy this over to the 928 DIY forum.
(Dwayne posted this back in August )
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Randy V. San Diego, California '94 928 GTS - Midnight Blue Metal
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| Tags |
| 2005, 2008, 993, bleeding, brake, brakes, fluid, fluids, flush, flushing, fulid, mgb, o5, procedure, rabbit, sunnyvale, zx6rr |
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