ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

So I finally got the old wastegate out. ThenI find that the thread on the Tial body is competing with the thread of the adapter on the dump side. I cannot "tighten" the bolt on these two mating surfaces because the thread on the Tial body is one revolution out of sync to the plate! No matter what I do, the bolt will not tighten up to the plate

Are you guys aware of this?? You may potentially have a non sealing Tial !!

When the gasket is NOT used it aligns correctly and is tight and contiguous. When gasket is used the thread continuity is off. Pissing me off. Seems the engineer did not account for this the development phase.

So, The only way to remedy this is to bore out all the thread on the Tial body so it doesn't compete.....

Unless i'm doing something wrong. Anyone know? sorry bout the rant, gonna go now and get some Tequila and shut down the garage. GRRRRrrrrrrr

Noahs944

Sounds to me like it is the gasket that needs boring, not the tial w.g... no?

Droops83

I vaguely remember this now that you mention it. The solution was simple---enlarge the holes on the wastegate slightly, which eliminates the threads.

Remember, the adapter plates are a custom, homemade solution to allow the Tial F38 to bolt up to a 951 exhaust system. And the F38 comes from the Tial factory with threaded holes. Make it work!

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Well, now that I think about this, The whole idea here is to place static pressure of one component onto the other. this cannot happen if both components have thread. Depending on orientation of the bolt, the component away from the head of the bolt needs to have thread, but not the component near the head of the bolt. Otherwise, you can torque your bolt down and it would be torquing the bolt to its immediate component thread and not to the component you are trying to fasten.

I will need to rim out/bore out the thread to the Tial. Incidentally, the other flange on the Tial, the one that connects to the valve side, has NO thread. No problems here........

Tom M'Guinn

Post some pictures.

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

That bolt is torqued to 15 lbs. yet I can stick a brake-Klean straw in there by flattening the tip. If I take straw out the metal gasket moves side to side by about 1mm

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

So, it seems the 15lbs force is between the head of that bolt and the threads on the flange of the Tial. When the bolt bottoms out it does NOT tighten that adapter plate by 15 lbs. It tightens to ZERO lbs.

Droops83

Like I said above, just drill out the threads in the wastegate flange and be done with it!

Tom M'Guinn

If both the wastegate flange holes and the adapter plate holes are threaded, then you'll never get the bolts torqued. Sounds like Droops has the simplest solution.... I have a 46mm so slightly different, but I have mated flanges welded onto the stock pipes to eliminate the adapters.

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Ok, thank you guys. I hadn't read anything about reaming out the threads on the Tial. I was thinking I was doing something wrong but after a quick study, and with your help, it seems the situation is elementary obvious. Also, I hope this will help others who may be looking to do the Tial installment

cheers!

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

So I took a rat-tail file to each of the holes with thread, made my way all around, now bolt goes in and out and tightens plates appropriately. Yay!!

Quick question: I had an appointment made to couple months ago to get the front of the car treated with clear-bra film in a couple days. The Tial is in and I have not redone the vacuum hoses because I haven't gotten an electronic boost controller. I will be ordering one soon. If I keep everything stock, am I able to run the car a few blocks to the appointment? Guess I would re- connect the vacuum hose to the top port or the side port? Will I fubar something even just driving a few blocks?

thanks in advance

Tom M'Guinn

It depends how you drive the car in those few blocks. Cap off the vacuum ports and keep the boost gauge needle well to the left of the "1" and you'll be fine. If you (or they) floor it, however, you may be learning how to replace the head gasket soon.

GPA951s

You can run just a simple air regulator, if you want.. cheap Thats what I am Running... I pretty much adjust it once and forget about it ...

Droops83

Run the hose to the lower/side port, which acts against the wastegate spring, and leave the top port open. That way the wastegate will open at the rated spring pressure and you won't have a vacuum/boost leak.