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Thanks for all the inputs - been very busy with work the past couple of days. It's good to hear from Dubai944 that he's had a good expereince with the Ultra Mounts. They do appear to be very well designed and built, so the fact that they're failing almost instantly points to some external cause outside of a flaw with the mounts themselves. Dave Lindsey told me the tightness of the bolt when assembling the mount isn't critical; it just has to be snug. I'm leaning toward my problem, at least in the latest instance, being caused by my damaging the isolation piece somehow during the installation. I made the mistake of tightening the M8 bolts that attach the mounts to the mount struts before maneuvering the engine into place on the cross member - I should have left them loose, allowing me to align the bolt with the hole in the cross member and gradually lower the engine into position, and then tightening the M8 bolts once the main bolt was through the holes. I suspect that as I was struggling to lower the bolts into the holes, I ended up with the weight of the engine pressing on the mount at an angle, just enought to damage the rubber isolation piece, which then gave out completely after a few hundred miles of street driving.
They don't wear evenly because the engine torque puts uneven force on one side. I put aftermarket mounts in (not sure which) a little over a year ago and they are failing. I'll go OEM.
They don't wear evenly because the engine torque puts uneven force on one side. I put aftermarket mounts in (not sure which) a little over a year ago and they are failing. I'll go OEM.
Aftermarket as in semi-solid engine mounts like LR ultra mounts? Or regular rubber mounts with fluid inside them (close to OEM design)?
Aftermarket as in semi-solid engine mounts like LR ultra mounts? Or regular rubber mounts with fluid inside them (close to OEM design)?
No one makes hydraulic (fluid filled) for our cars anymore. You will have to get them from Porsche, and yes they are expensive compared to solid rubber. Sunset Porsche might have the best price.
I was dubious about OEM benefits until I started researching hydraulic engine mounts in general. Turns out there is actual science and engineering in them LOL. They really do work, the car has never been smoother. They were worth the money to me.
I'll know in a few days, but I'm hoping I've found the cause of my problem. I had a long talk with Dave Lindsey, during which he asked me if the word "LORD" was stamped onto the sides of my mounts' rubber isolation pieces. I told him I didn't know, but upon checking, saw that mine didn't. So he sent me a pair of new LORD isolation pieces, and they're clearly very different from the ones that keep failing in my car. The LORD peices are made of a noticeably stiffer rubber, it took more effort to press them into the mounts, and they are quite a bit taller that the ones that kept failing. Also, I was much more careful during the installation process, leaving all the nuts and bolt loose until I got the mounts' bolt threads into their holes in the cross member, avoiding putting any weight on the mounts until they were securely in place. So I'm crossing my fingers that my problem has simply been sup-par quality isolation pieces.
Last edited by Cloud9...68; 11-07-2020 at 08:37 PM.
As to the poster who suggested adding the solid trans mount, to my knowledge there isn’t one offered for 968. We had to custom made mine and I will try to post some pics.
I’ve had no issues with Lindsey semi solid mounts on my track car.
Cloud, your issues are sounding similar to when the front most bearing in my torque tube disintegrated. This is a problem that is common to the split tube design used in the 92 and 93 968 and track use can hasten the failure. Obviously I am responding under the assumption that you have yet to change over to a solid tube. The vibration broke darn near everything but the windshield. Don’t overlook checking it. About the only maintenance procedure is to remove the rubber plug at the front of the tube and insert something stiff but flexible. I use a piece of hard fuel line from an old CIS injection repair kit; a hardware store should have something similar. I’ll have to check and report back with the measurement. BTW, this cracked the oil pump pickup tube in the pan also. I’ll try to post those pics. I hope this helps
The torque tube (TT) front bearing can be seen through the split using a light and after removing the silver duct tape that usually covers the split, if it's still there.
This picture shows the front bearing insert that grips the drive shaft above the front bearing. This is not correct as the insert should be in the front bearing, not above it. The reason is the front bearing walked down the TT under operation due to the split widening and no longer holding the front bearing in its correct position. This then caused the front bearing unit to become angled to the drive shaft which then pulled the insert from the bearing. It only goes down hill from there.
You can also see that damage has stated to the drive shaft where the metal to metal contact between the drive shaft and bearing has worn off the drive shaft coating and corrosion is forming.
Good luck with your search.
Last edited by Constantine; 11-09-2020 at 09:01 PM.
10-30-2020, 03:02 PM
