Does anybody make two-piece rotors for the 951/968?
#16
Rennlist Member
Pretty certain that the S2 and 968 spindles are the same. Therefor this setup would work super well. https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-for-sale.html
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
That setup looks amazing, but nearly $4K (I'm sure it's worth every penny) is a bit extreme for just the fronts for what is nothing more than a practice track car I use for training between racing events in the arrive-and-drive series (in rented Radical SR1's) that I participate in. Oh, well, I knew this would be out of my price range. I've just been jonesing over the impressive two-piece rotor set-ups so proudly displayed behind the spokes of so many modern performance cars I see at the track.
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You could look at swapping to 996tt/997tt/gt3 front brakes (in ascending order of price and performance). The total cost is less than 4k, the parts and process are quite well documented and available from multiple vendors off-the-shelf, and you'll have that badass look that you need to win in the paddock.
Here is one example vendor (I'm not recommending them, no personal experience, but I do hear they are incredibly slow and unreliable on delivery.)
https://www.9products.com/category/1307/brakes
But you can reference the site to see what is involved - centering rings for front/rear rotors, rear parking brake extender if you want to keep the parking brake, and caliper adapters for front and rear. Then you just buy stock parts for 996tt from any dealer. Rotors especially are dirt cheap for 996/997tt, mine typically cost $100/corner or less. Some consumables are cheaper to run my 996tt than to run my 951...!
I have the VCI on one car due to class restrictions, not because of value. For a DE car with no restrictions, I would not choose them.
Here is one example vendor (I'm not recommending them, no personal experience, but I do hear they are incredibly slow and unreliable on delivery.)
https://www.9products.com/category/1307/brakes
But you can reference the site to see what is involved - centering rings for front/rear rotors, rear parking brake extender if you want to keep the parking brake, and caliper adapters for front and rear. Then you just buy stock parts for 996tt from any dealer. Rotors especially are dirt cheap for 996/997tt, mine typically cost $100/corner or less. Some consumables are cheaper to run my 996tt than to run my 951...!
I have the VCI on one car due to class restrictions, not because of value. For a DE car with no restrictions, I would not choose them.
Last edited by Sam Lin; 02-24-2022 at 04:55 AM. Reason: add link
#20
Rennlist Member
^^ What's going on with that hat & rotor? Something doesn't look so right.
#22
Rennlist Member
#23
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Just to be clear, at least for my case, my goal isn't to improve my braking performance, so I wouldn't want any larger diameter rotors than I currently have, which is 12" in the front (haven't measured the rears). I have 17 x 10.5 custom forged Signature wheels, with a 49 mm offset, which allows for the widest wheels I can fit on my car without using spacers, or modifying the fenders, beyond rolling their lips. I don't think a larger diameter rotor would fit with my wheels, plus my only real goal with this (besides the obvious coolness factor) would be cutting out a few pounds of unsprung weight. Larger rotors would be counter to that goal. What diameter are 996tt or 997tt front rotors? I suspect they're a lot larger than 12" (305 mm).
#24
Rennlist Member
2 Piece Rotors
2 Piece Rotors
Coleman will Custom Make them for you.
I have MO30 Spindles and I am having Coleman make me 14" Slotted Rotors that will mate up to the Lindsey Hub Centers
I was originally going to use 997.1 GT3 front calipers but have decided to just go back with 993TT fronts
For the rear I was going with Cup rear calipers and 996 Full Floating but due to the increased weight I an sticking with 944 Turbo Calipers with Slotted one piece
If anyone is interested I have the GT3 front Calipers, 911 Cup rear calipers with adapter bracket and a mock up set of rear 996 full floating rotors
Front calipers GT3 $1000 New Take-offs
Rear calipers 997 $800 New Take-offs
Rear Adapter Brackets for 997 Calipers $150
1 set of Racers Edge Camber Plates Used great shape $400.00
1 set of Racers Edge rear Shock Mounts $100.00 Used Good Shape
1 Rear Torsion Delete Bar Brand New Plack Powdercoat $1000.00
Max
225 573-0664
PS: I am happy to provide pictures and caliper part numbers
Coleman will Custom Make them for you.
I have MO30 Spindles and I am having Coleman make me 14" Slotted Rotors that will mate up to the Lindsey Hub Centers
I was originally going to use 997.1 GT3 front calipers but have decided to just go back with 993TT fronts
For the rear I was going with Cup rear calipers and 996 Full Floating but due to the increased weight I an sticking with 944 Turbo Calipers with Slotted one piece
If anyone is interested I have the GT3 front Calipers, 911 Cup rear calipers with adapter bracket and a mock up set of rear 996 full floating rotors
Front calipers GT3 $1000 New Take-offs
Rear calipers 997 $800 New Take-offs
Rear Adapter Brackets for 997 Calipers $150
1 set of Racers Edge Camber Plates Used great shape $400.00
1 set of Racers Edge rear Shock Mounts $100.00 Used Good Shape
1 Rear Torsion Delete Bar Brand New Plack Powdercoat $1000.00
Max
225 573-0664
PS: I am happy to provide pictures and caliper part numbers
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SeaCay (02-18-2023)
#26
The following users liked this post:
SeaCay (02-18-2023)
#27
Rennlist Member
The point here is a good one: "on my track car". This is not a question of "value", it is one of best available product for the application. I too have run this floating rotor 2-piece combo on my race car for 15 years and can't speak highly enough about them. One benefit is more attaching points between the rotor and hat than the 993TT setup. Adds confidence in a race application. Of course, this makes no sense as a setup on a street car. Just for comparison, my 951 makes north of 400 hp, is about 2400 lbs dry and we hit 170 at Daytona routinely. Stopping is, well, real important, over and over. Another quick point. I am NOT a fan of drilled rotors in track applications. Like it or not, hairline fissures will occur and, while cross-drilling can reduce temperatures, I'll take my rotors slotted-only for safety. Last point, racing pads are an obvious necessity (I use Pagid Yellow on my fronts) and fluid selection is critical (I started with Castrol SRF a decade+ ago and have never changed / if it ain't broken...). Pic is a bit old but shows the key elements of the setup. I've subsequently updated from M030 hubs to Racer's Edge impressively machined ones. Another excellent product if you're in the market. Quick pic of them also. Studs are 65mm stub nose from Paragon.