Rear support bar.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Rear support bar.
I see a company is selling a 'rear support truss', that mounts between the C pillars, above the rear seat back. Is a bar mounted there, going to make much difference to the shells rigidity?
#3
Rennlist Member
I made a custom one and connected it to where my rear seat bolts were. I noticed the difference immediately. A friend of mine who was following me on a twisty road kept commenting on how flat my car was too.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
#6
Three Wheelin'
From a practical point of view i dont see how this helps in any way, there is really no “ side load” there.. just the shock mounts.. sure the torsion plates are close but the are for the vertical load..
i think if it made any difference the turbo cup cars would of had something like this. The engineers felt compelled to build in a front strut tie bar right into the chassis, but they overlooked this?
i think if it made any difference the turbo cup cars would of had something like this. The engineers felt compelled to build in a front strut tie bar right into the chassis, but they overlooked this?
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
The Cup cars had a proper roll cage, so didn't need a bolt in bar there. It seems to be a known thing on some other makes though, so as it would cost me next to nothing I'll give it a try. I wouldn't pay $250 for one, or fit it between the seat belt mounts though.
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#9
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
In 2006 or so I essentially made one of these on my car.
I got some ~5/8" OD rubber hose and cut 3/4" long pieces and put those on the "pegs" that the rear seatback would latch do. Then I spanned the two posts with a piece of steel pipe ~7/8" OD and 5/8" ID (have to take the seat pegs out of the car, install the pipe between them, re-bolt the pegs to the car and then adjust the pipe a little). The pipe compresses the rubber hose "bushings" and fits snug.
My purpose was just to keep objects in the trunk from sliding forwards since I had removed the rear seat.
I got some ~5/8" OD rubber hose and cut 3/4" long pieces and put those on the "pegs" that the rear seatback would latch do. Then I spanned the two posts with a piece of steel pipe ~7/8" OD and 5/8" ID (have to take the seat pegs out of the car, install the pipe between them, re-bolt the pegs to the car and then adjust the pipe a little). The pipe compresses the rubber hose "bushings" and fits snug.
My purpose was just to keep objects in the trunk from sliding forwards since I had removed the rear seat.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
In 2006 or so I essentially made one of these on my car.
I got some ~5/8" OD rubber hose and cut 3/4" long pieces and put those on the "pegs" that the rear seatback would latch do. Then I spanned the two posts with a piece of steel pipe ~7/8" OD and 5/8" ID (have to take the seat pegs out of the car, install the pipe between them, re-bolt the pegs to the car and then adjust the pipe a little). The pipe compresses the rubber hose "bushings" and fits snug.
.
I got some ~5/8" OD rubber hose and cut 3/4" long pieces and put those on the "pegs" that the rear seatback would latch do. Then I spanned the two posts with a piece of steel pipe ~7/8" OD and 5/8" ID (have to take the seat pegs out of the car, install the pipe between them, re-bolt the pegs to the car and then adjust the pipe a little). The pipe compresses the rubber hose "bushings" and fits snug.
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blade7 (07-13-2023)
#14
Three Wheelin'
If you want to go a step further, a bolt-in roll cage is a thing. I installed an Autopower 1/2 cage in my '86 951 about a dozen years ago, and the most noticeable effect was any hint of hatch squeaking was immediately eliminated due to the localized increase in torsional rigidity. There are articles here and elsewhere about adjusting the hatch pins---the Only944.com hatch pin inserts are a great product.