Dan Martinic

I suspect my MAP sensor --that supplied with Rogue / LR A-Tune-- needs replacing.. yet I can't find which one it is. The sticker on the back is long worn out. Can anyone help identify it?

Thanks, Dan

Dan Martinic

Update: got the info GM 3-bar... but the OEM has these tabs in the receptacle that don't match the plug supplied by LR

Looks like I'll get an aftermarket version.. probably what they supplied anyway

Golden Hands

Buzzed so not 100% sure what you are saying. However that does look like a GM MAP sensor. Maybe you can get the correct GM 3 pin plug for it? We used to sell those MAP sensors and they do come in different max press readings. I recall the 2 BAR, 3 BAR and maybe even 5 BAR. All absolute pressure of course.

Mike G.

944M3

I have A-Tune as well. I just took a look at my MAP sensor and it has no marker on it. So I can’t confirm the brand.

But can you tell me what your symptoms are? Meaning, why do you think your sensor is bad. It’s got me wondering if I have a bad sensor as well. I’m having an issue building boost in higher RPM. Thought it might be my Tial wasgate opening to soon, but wastegate seems to be ok (I pulled it and tested).

It’s my understanding the MAP sensor takes over from AFM above a certain RPM. Can anyone confirm this. I can’t seem to find any documentation around A-Tune inner workings.

Thanks in advance.

Toolbelt0

I replaced the map sensor a few years back. It's a GM 3 bar and they are available all over the internet. Ebay has them cheap but it's probably best to get a GM oem, because the Chinese knockoffs might have reliability issues. I replaced it because of hesitation and some crazy loss of spark issue on the onset of boost. It solved the problem.

Droops83

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/produ ... ts_id/1584

Here you go, trusted source.

Dan Martinic

There are some indications that the A-Tune Map sensor as supplied by LR is an aftermarket; I only say this as the OEM ones (Delphi or ACDelco) have these keyed tabs for the plugs. Knock-offs don't seem to have them, and neither does the original supplied A-Tune MAP that I got.

Some of these knock-offs are super duper cheap like $10 and I would imagine they don't last very long. I've had my MAP installed about 4 or 5 years of daily driving.

I wanted a replacement fast and managed to get a Walker replacement yesterday. It's construction is similar to the current Delphi OEM except no tabs. So far, the issue has not returned.

My symptoms were a very intermittent "jerking" hesitation--quite violent but fast.. so quick sometimes the tach didn't even drop.. but clearly a cutting out of (probably) ignition or fuel. It would happen very randomly though never after first start & drive of the day (ie. not to work but possibly any time afterwards). A couple of times it got so bad that upon WOT, it would not boost and would bog down as if fuel or spark was radically being pulled.

Also, during these episodes, idle would get a bit uneasy.

These would be short episodes. Before & after, car would run absolutely perfectly.

A few days ago, as a period of problem was happening, I pulled over and started to wiggle a bunch of connections. It was only when I moved the MAP sensor--hanging off the wires by the firewall as per the classic A-Tune install pics--that I noticed a little change in idle tone.

When I got home, I pulled out my multimeter and "back-probed" the MAP wires (I have very thin needle-like probe so it doesn't do much damage to the insulation there). I got a nice steady 5v from the red wire but the green signal wire was showing all kinds of weird readings: sometimes a steady 1.6v as it should at idle, sometimes 3.0v, sometimes 0.6v, etc.. moving the sensor a bit caused big fluctuations. It all seemed very weird, not solid.

I will update if the new one solves the issue.. will take a few days of driving to confirm.

If you are having issues building boost but don't have any weird hesitation / jerking / missing, I would look at your boost control setup. If stock CV, maybe test that. If you have an aftermarket boost control, make sure it's working properly and all lines are still properly connected.

Dan Martinic

Your issue sounds about same as mine. I hope my replacement sensor has solved it!

Note that GM OEM supply (Delphi) currently have these weird tabs in the plug receptacle that would not accept the green A-Tune plug as supplied by LR in 2018-19. The made-in-China Walker replacement I got doesn't have the tabs.

ORIGINAL A-TUNE MAP PLUG:



CURRENT DELPHI OEM GM 3 BAR SENSOR (Tabs don't match)

944M3

Yup I hear you. I pulled my Tial wastegate and replacing the 3/16 hose with 1/4 fittings and hoses. I’ve already tested and set the manual boost controller and wastegate in dual port mode. Wondering if the thinner hose was kinked going through the firewall.

need to put it all back together now.

it’s cool though, this process helped me understand how all the wastegate components worked together. Some confusing and sometimes wrong information out on the web, especially around dual port.

Toolbelt0

You can also buy the plug and solder the wires, if you want to use the OEM.

Dan Martinic

Second day of driving and the issue hasn't returned.

I'm curious why the originally supplied MAP sensor would fail in less than five years? Is it a really cheap knock off? Something to do with the installation?

Found this technical drawing that suggests install should be pointing down so that condensation doesn't contaminate the sensor. Could the suggested mounting be the problem? If so, where can I put it so that it "points down" AND is above the source point for the line? Mount it on the underside of the hood??




Originally suggested A-Tune MAP install location (pic from old Rogue A-Tune site):

968to986

This is all very interesting. My A-Tune has been working great for close to five years of part time driving. It’s installed just the way you show, so maybe I should try to adjust that before it’s too late. I hope you got the problem solved.

Dan Martinic

Issue looks to be resolved

I would suggest anyone with a MAP sensor to check them every now and then.

Who knows how long my A/F ratios were wonky until they got so bad to cause outright cut outs!

Toolbelt0

Glad you found the problem. I installed mine above the KLR computer and installed a tee on the KLR vac/ Boost line. The failure on the original provided sensor, seemed to be, that the epoxy the factory used on the seams had cracked.