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3.0 race crank? ebay opinions

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Old 12-08-2004, 02:49 AM
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ehall
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Default 3.0 race crank? ebay opinions

just as posted. Whatcha think? I want a 3.0 crank for a stroker rebuild, for purely street use. Opinions? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
Old 12-08-2004, 03:01 AM
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dualblade
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from what i understand, if you're going to have the crank lightened (as that one is), you should lighten the rods and pistons as well. could be wrong tho so i'd wait for some other replies
Old 12-08-2004, 08:12 AM
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Bri Bro
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I wouldn't use this for street only. Alos, consider the source.
THIS IS A RACE PREPARED ITEM, ANDERSON MOTORWORKS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE RESULTING IN THE USE OR INSTALLATION OF THIS ITEM. THIS ITEM IS NOT WARRANTED FOR WEAR OR BREAKAGE UNDER ANY OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES.
Old 12-08-2004, 08:37 AM
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remeber that if you put this in a 2.5 block WITHOUT Carillo rods ( or similar) you will have to machine the lower girdle/block area because factory rods will hit. I also believe that the factory threads from 1 and 2 rods will hit the oil pan, though just barely. Are you going to use Mahle 2.8 pistons or pistons from Tom Charlesworth?
Old 12-08-2004, 09:34 AM
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Can't you just machine the oil pan?
Old 12-08-2004, 09:48 AM
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The oil pan is thin and IIRC from fast951, at least three or four threads have to be ground off on the factory rod bolts.
Old 12-08-2004, 10:05 AM
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You did see the core required part? Could be $1500!
Old 12-08-2004, 10:30 AM
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Has anyone ever seen data from "real" tests to indicate ANY performance gains from a lightened crank on the 951 (with the 6800rpm top)?? Knife edging, might help with a wet sump setup (951)..

In my opinion, the 951 is considered a low rev engine, I doubt there are any gains from lightening the crank.

If anyone has any test data (before and after), please share with us. I would love to be proven wrong on this. I always want to see the before and after, so should you!!! (many items are being sold that have ZERO performance value).

I'm not saying this is a "bad" crank. I just want to see actual concrete repeatable data.
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:46 AM
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They are a lot easier to carry around....
I would not use one on the street, on the track I wouldn’t count on a real HP gain - just quicker rev change rate and less aeration of the oil.
I agree with John (fast951) - the lightened crank concept has been way over hyped, there is not a significant difference is measurable output. Also – if you use a lightened crank with a light flywheel and pressure plate you will get a really annoying street set up – every street light will be a test of clutch slipping skills and stalling the engine will be a common problem unless you slip the clutch a lot.

Chris White
Old 12-08-2004, 10:48 AM
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ehall
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I really never had an intention to buy this. i just wanted opinions. Still do. Much like the one above.
Old 12-08-2004, 10:58 AM
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ehall
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Also, how, or why would they sell this so cheaply? Just start low to get bids? I emailed them to see what their price would be for a standard 3.0 crank, if they have one. No reply yet.
Old 12-08-2004, 11:49 AM
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I think cross-drilling the crank would be better overall - less likelihood of the spun #2 bearing failure that way. Knife-edging costs more and does less.
Old 12-08-2004, 11:55 AM
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ehall, look at the auction - it's for the knife edging service only - crank is not included in that cost. You either provide your own or you pay their core, which I'd bet is over $1500.

It's also Anderson Motorworks, who I wouldn't let go anywhere near my car or parts after the royal screwing they gave Dave.

Sam
Old 12-08-2004, 01:54 PM
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The purpose of the crank counterweigths is to balance out part of the forces the piston movement causes. If you lighten these then the forces on the crank will be higher. For a race setup, this will probably not make any difference but for a street car it could cause durability problems.

Tomas
Old 12-08-2004, 05:51 PM
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Anderson does NOT have a particularly stellar reputation in 944 circles. They've been known to make some really good products, but also quite a few lousy ones that have failed. It sounds to me like they tried to crank (no pun) out too much too fast and quality suffered based on the horror stories I've seen / heard of. Maybe they are using different machine shops now or something. . . dunno. I've seen enough "bad" stuff of theirs to safely say they're not going near my cars. I don't want to talk trash about them since they might be fine now. If you want more info - PM Danno. He'll tell you ALL KINDS of interesting things about them.


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