CO951

I did a search for allignment specs and didn't find much. I found these, but I'm not sure if the are for street or track.
Rear:
Toe: 0 +/- 0.08 degrees. Max. difference 0.17 degrees
Camber: -1 +/- 0.33 degrees. Max. difference 0.5 degrees

Front:
Toe: -0.17 +/- 0.08 degrees
Camber: -0.33 +/- 0.25 degrees. Max. difference 0.17 degrees
Caster: 2.5 + 0.5 - 0.25 degrees. Max. difference 0.5 degrees

I'm guessing these are street specs.
I'm looking for specs for street/track use for my '89 951.

ninefiveone

That's a street spec.

For track/street (more track than street) I run more camber. About 1.5 all around.

CO951

So just run more negative camber. That's easy enough. Thanks!

Sami951

I've been running with zero toe in front for few years now and it seems to work really well, still goes straight without problems but turns in just a bit faster.

In the rear a bit of toe in might be nice, depends on how you drive and if you have LSD or not - as it helps keep the rear end settled during hard braking. At the moment I've got -0.10 toe + LSD and it's very stable.

JET951

if you run standard bushings on the front control arms then i would run 1 mm toe in because on braking it tends to open up because of the play in the bushes.

jimbo1111

For a street track setup I went with 1.8 deg negative camber up front and 2.0 in the rear. Set the caster as far as it will go. Close to 3 degs. With a 1 mm toe in.

azmi951

Only on early offset cars since it has an inside scrub radius. on late offset cars the outside scrub radius makes toe in under braking. this is also primarily due to pneumatic trail of the tires.