951Porschiste

I'm in the process of installing the LR injector and knock sensor harness. The included instructions say to plug the new wires into DME pins #14, 15 and KLR pins #11, 12, 13.
My question is how do I remove the existing metal plugs in the DME and KLR connectors? I figured there must be an easy trick to this but I guess I'm just too thick to figure it out.


Below is a close-up picture of the KLR connector showing the metal plugs for pin # 11, 12, 13. I'm able to move them up and down a little bit but they seem to be catching on something.

jimbo1111

Why are you removing them? Aren't you suppose to just tap into the line?

Tom M'Guinn

I don't know about Lindsey's products, but normally you need to cut and splice into the wire themselves, rather than replacing the little metal pins in the connectors. Unless Lindsey gave you new pins to put in the connector (something like the pic below), there is no way to "plug in" a piece of wire into the back of an assembled connector like that.

Also, the insulation on that white wire looks a bit torn. Might want to inspect that closely to make sure the wires are no fraying.

951Porschiste

The LR harness wires come with the metal pins already on them. So again any trick to removing the old metal pins from the plastic connector?

Here's a picture of the wires provided by LR:

Tom M'Guinn

Wow, nice product!

The pins in the picture you show are held in place with little barbs on the other side. They made special "pin extractors" to get them out, but sometimes you can push the barbs in with needles, etc. See an example of multi-purpose extractors here:

http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html

951Porschiste

Thanks for the link. BTW I ordered some new 3-way female plugs for the Speed and reference sensors from EagleDay.com last week. I wonder how long it'll take to ship up here to Canada. In the meantime, I'll try and find this special "pin extractor" at the local electronics store.

kwdrus

The connectors on the LR wires are not installed correctly. the crimp closest to the insulation should actually be crimped over the insulation. It make for a much stronger union, but it will still work.

951Porschiste

Problem solved!

To remove the metal pins from the plastic connector, you need a special tool that will disengage the "locking tab" (see arrow in next picture):



I went to the local electronic store (ex-Radio-Shack, they are now called "The Source by Circuit City" in Canada) and could not find an adequate tool. So I decided to fabricate my own using a 1.5 mm allen wrench which I tapered down (see next picture) using a Dremel rotary tool.



Once I had the modified allen wrench, I tend inserted this tool down the little plastic valley of the connector as seen in the next picture. This disengaged the "locking tab" and then I just had to pull on the wire to take it out.



And Voilà! Problem Solved!

Tom M'Guinn

Nice work making your own pin extractor. With you could make one for me so I could get the pin out of my broken Zeitronix connector. It's only 3mm, and none of my local electronics shops have an extractor small enough -- and I live in the heart of Silicon Valley...

testarossa_td

Thanks for the write-up.
Beautiful MACRO shots! Can't beat the Nikons for Macros.
I used an xacto jewelers set of screw drivers for extracting my pins.(second to the smallest I think)
It is equipped with 0.7mm, 0.9mm, 1.2mm, 1.6mm, and 2.0 mm.



Some I think have used bobby pins(search..)

951Porschiste

I had a set of these at the office. I just did not want to come in to the office on a Saturday!

Macro shots: Nikon D70s with 105 mm Macro lens and ring flash.