Mark-87-951

In my my car wont start - still , I've noted that my battery ground is shot and the power line down to the starter is cracking as well. I've been searching online for info on batter cables and such and found that Bruce at Arrnworx has a battery terminal kit available. I'd have to buy a propane torch and deal with the learning curve, but if anyone has info on wire gauges and types to use, sources etc. Maybe I can put something together.

If someone has an Iceshark kit available even better, but I know the odds are slim to none on that.

PorscheDoc

Here is a post I made at clarks-garage awhile back, it will tell what sizes and materials I used, etc. If you read through all the pages, all the information and pictures are present.

http://clarks-garage.com/phpBB2/view...=battery+cable

BTW, Iceshark made some incredible kits, but IMHO they were WAAAAY over engineered for the cars, unless you are running a monster stereo system. You can make your own set for a lot cheaper (though you will sacrifice your time).

Mark-87-951

Thanks for the info. Are you still going to go through with the plans to make a replacement set with options on wiring type? I'd be all for that.

PorscheDoc

I keep thinking about it.....then I keep thinking about getting my engine finished and in my car, lol. I will look around and see what kind of supplies I have left over and what I would need to make a couple of sets.

theedge

IceShark used ExCELENE #1 wire for the battery to starter, the grounds, and the alternator to starter wires. Heres a link... The minimum at welding depot is 25 feet, thatll cover all those cables and should leave you some extra. I can measure my grounds and battery to starter, but my alternator wire is a different legnth since I have AC delete.

For the fiberglass sleeving, that can be had from here... Youll want the 1 AWG stuff, C1 grade is fine. It only comes in 100 foot spools, but $40 isnt too bad a price so you could probably split it with some people.

Cable organizer also sells the good heat shrink tubing that has adhesive in it. Ill measure what IDs you need later this afternoon.

A small propane torch is fine. One of the little hand held units thats sold in department stores and runs on butane would also work. I used a small torch that screws onto the green Coleman propane tanks for lanterns, that worked well (overkill tho). Youll probably need a roll of thick solder.

Ask Bruce if you can buy extra lugs beyond what comes in his kit there, youll need them for the other ends of the cables.

TRP951

or you could pm kwdrus he made me some battery cables and they are very nice they all run to the battery no starter to alternator wire

aeronautica86

This is an upgrade that is fairly common in the car audio world; its often called the "Big 3" refering to the battery - chassis, battery - alternator, and chassis - engine block wires. Most people will just run an extra length (adding to, not replacing stock wiring) between each of these points with 1/0 car audio wire.

Welding wire is sometimes used, but it is generally agreed that real car audio power cable is much better. The reason for this is that welding wire (usually) uses a neoprene jacket that is not as weather/oil/heat resistant as the PVC jacket used in car audio cable (from manufacturers like knukonceptz, stinger, kicker, JL etc). A second disadvantage to the welding wire is that it is not made of OFC (oxygen free copper), and will therefore oxidize fairly easily, degrading its ability to conduct electricity. Finally, most welding wire uses 30 gauge strands, whereas most good car audio cable will use 36 gauge strands, making it much more flexible.

The downside to the car audio cable is that it is more expensive, knukonceptz has an eKo 1/0 cable that they sell for $2.25/ft (just a tad more than the welding wire) and a Kolossus wire that they sell for $2.99/ft (the Kolossus wire, even though advertised as 1/0, is however, actually 2/0 gauge by american wire gauge standards), Kicker sells their hyperflex for close to $5/ft and Elemental designs sells their 1/0 for $2.50/ft, though there is a discount to get it at $2.00/ft.

If I were upgrading or replacing my stock wiring, I would certainly use either the Knukonceptz Kolossus or eKo cable, the Welding wire that was used for the iceshark kits, while more than adequate for its purpose and relatively inexpesive is outclassed by the Knu/ED/kicker cable which would be much better for use where extra electronics will be used. These can be found at www.knukonceptz.com or the ED can be found at http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/ind...?cPath=1_54_55. Knu and ED both also carry an assortment of battery terminals, fuse holders, ring terminals etc.

Mark-87-951

Thanks for all the info. I certainly have enough to make some if it should come to that.

skene

I got a ground cable made at Custom Battery Cables and am quite happy with it. It's a 2/0 cable, so I had some difficulty getting it through the firewall grommit, but it worked well. Idealy you want a 32" main with a 12" aux cable on it.

I thought of makeing up a set myself, but for the ~$40 with shipping it was a lot easier to just buy it.

shaheed

i replaced my ground wires earlier this year, bought some generic ones from pep boys, same gauge as the original, cost less than $20 and made a huge difference for me.

aeronautica86

I have a quick question, since I'm not all that familiar with the 944's electrical system in particular. I stole this image for the thread linked above, I hope you don't mind Doc. I am just curious to know where each of these connectors on the cables connect to, and approx. how long each piece is? Also, are these the only big/main cables in the electrical system? How about an alt to starter power or chassis to engine block ground?

PorscheDoc

Well, those are your main cables with the exception of the starter to battery cable. The ground cable has a lug that connects to the battery box, and on the back of the engine.
The starter to alternator cable has 2 large connections at each, and 2 small connections at each. The small connections do no actually run from the starter to the alternator, but rather they meet in the middle, and head up the firewall and clip in for you ignition at the brake booster.
The starter to battery cable is a straight shot, but then there are the accessories clump of wires that also will connect to the battery terminal.

potent951turbo

Can you not get factory cables anymore?

My car could probably use some new cables pretty soon.

PorscheDoc

Yup, you sure can. I put a new alternator to starter line on an 84 about a year ago, it had to come from Germany, and came with a price tag of around $275 IIRC.

Mark-87-951

Wow! on that price