kevincnc

Well I'm not sure if this will help or not, but will be doing some testing in the next few weeks. This was a practice part to test with. The last picture shows the setup on the mill. I used a 2-3/4" hole saw and slotted the opening .400" wide for a 3" tube squeezed down to 2-3/4" high by 3-1/4 wide. Fixturing took a lot longer than making the hole. I'll fill in where necessary and hold it in place with epoxy, then see if it was worth the trouble.





EDIT: If you're wondering why, this will go with my stealth MAF and larger turbo in an effort to reach 300 WHP & TQ and quick-as-possible spool up with an engine bay that looks like stock

cas951

I've been wanting to do this for sometime. Looks great. Keep us posted.

FRporscheman

I like it! What kind of filter do you use?

What is the cross-sectional area of the snorkel (at either end)? If it is less than the cross sectional area of your 3" circle (7.07 sq in) then that needs to be opened up as well.

kevincnc

I have a K&N, and yes the snorkle needs opening up too, working on that next.

cas951

I bet there's a market for this. Specially the ones that has the stealth MAF kit's. Now i'm in search of the lower portion of the airbox. Anyone has one for sale?

Alpine951

I have read some info on Autospeed.com inthe past that having the end of the pipe inside the airbox have a bellmouth opening is beneficial to air flow also. Checkout Autospeed as there is a ton of free info on there regarding having this on the inside of the airbox.

kevincnc

Thanks I'll check that out. I wanted to flair it out like the stock opening, but haven't figured out how to do that because it has to be inserted from the flange end. I guess I could put a split in it and squeeze it down to get it in after flairing if it's going to make a noticeable difference.

M758

One issue you may have is that the stock airbox has a bell mouth in that spot. It helps the air flow smoothly out of the AFM in to the box. This set-up leave you with straight edges on the end of the there and that may cause turbulence and a disruption in air flow. So you may get more air, but it if it stalled it may actually flow less.

rcatherton

You may be able to take advantage of the full filter area by moving the opening toward the center to open up the corner of the airbox that is now cut off by the inlet resting against the side of the airbox.

kevincnc

Yes it's starting to look like it needs a bellmouth. I'l do that and then slit it to get in, shouldn't be a big deal. Thanks guys, I'll post another picture when it's done.

kevincnc

I wanted to put it in straighter, but as it rotates in it would be cutting into the stepped part of the bottom ot the airbox. I can make it shorter, but was thinking that being longer would help smooth out the airflow better before it reaches the MAF sensor.

kevincnc

It's still need a little detailing but this is about the best I could do by beating on it with a hammer. The bottom gaps will be blended into the tube in with JB Weld for a smooth transition like the stock opening. After testing if it needs more of a bellmouth I might have to make some sort of a form.

M758

Well short of doing and engineering analysis to determine the ideal shape that looks good.

kevincnc

Thanks Joe. John says that I should be able to see if there is turbulence by looking at the analog signal on my new Vitesse Piggyback. As soon as I hook it up I'll try that. Opening up the snorkle is turning out to be a bit more of a challenge than the airbox.

Landjet

Kevin
You might try a shop that makes custom exhausts to get your bellmouth. I know from past trips to the muffler shop they can expand the ends to go over larger pipe so they may have something to press into the end to help get a nice radius. Just a thought.