Ferrari F40 Style Extration Vented Lexan Rear Hatch Screen - Testing the water
01-14-2008, 02:53 PM
#61
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Many thanks Tom. I may need some pics from the inside looking at the glass firewall baffle and also a closeup of the angle of the vents and how well they are cut out which I'm sure will be a case of perfection.
Cheers,
Mark
Cheers,
Mark
02-14-2008, 01:02 AM
#63
Racer
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Sounds good! Kind of the idea behind this one...
Pics of the build at http://www.lemcomotorsports.com/Jacky.html
Pics of the build at http://www.lemcomotorsports.com/Jacky.html
02-14-2008, 01:22 AM
#64
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Interesting race peices. Just to clafiry, did you say the weight of the rear piece will be 3.7 kg or 6.54 lbs? And, the material is scratch proof?
You may want to give the size of the slider some consideration. It looks like it may be small for my preference.
Keep up the good work and keep us posted.
You may want to give the size of the slider some consideration. It looks like it may be small for my preference.
Keep up the good work and keep us posted.
02-14-2008, 10:32 AM
#65
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3.7kG is about 8.2lbs...
3.2kg is about 7.1lbs...
6.54lbs equates to about 2.98kg
I wasn't sure if you were asking if 3.7kg equated to about 6.54lbs or not; -not trying to 'correct' you or anything, but just wanted you not to have the 'wrong' numbers...
Keith
3.2kg is about 7.1lbs...
6.54lbs equates to about 2.98kg
I wasn't sure if you were asking if 3.7kg equated to about 6.54lbs or not; -not trying to 'correct' you or anything, but just wanted you not to have the 'wrong' numbers...
Keith
02-14-2008, 11:02 AM
#66
Three Wheelin'
Matt,
Do you know if you had any issue of back fumes entering from the rear with those vent holes? I know it's all about the back pressure, so I was wondering if you had experienced it with your application.
This could really help FUTURE with his work...it might help those of us with Lexan already installed in our coupes, too!
Do you know if you had any issue of back fumes entering from the rear with those vent holes? I know it's all about the back pressure, so I was wondering if you had experienced it with your application.
This could really help FUTURE with his work...it might help those of us with Lexan already installed in our coupes, too!
02-14-2008, 11:59 AM
#67
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Thanks for the math typo correction. A kg is roughly 2.2 lbs (i think), so 3.7 x 2.2 = 8.14 lbs.
Very good weight. Especially if it is scratch proof and still somewhat flexible.
Very good weight. Especially if it is scratch proof and still somewhat flexible.
02-14-2008, 12:37 PM
#68
Rennlist Member
Would be neat to see some wind tunnel specs or even simulated specs on this screen with the different spoiler types that are available. This is an idea that is long overdue and I give you the utmost respect for all of your hard work mate.
Also, what is your source for the spoilers you are using, they look great with the paint matching the body colour.
Also, what is your source for the spoilers you are using, they look great with the paint matching the body colour.
02-14-2008, 03:50 PM
#69
Rennlist Member
Matt,
Do you know if you had any issue of back fumes entering from the rear with those vent holes? I know it's all about the back pressure, so I was wondering if you had experienced it with your application.
This could really help FUTURE with his work...it might help those of us with Lexan already installed in our coupes, too!
Do you know if you had any issue of back fumes entering from the rear with those vent holes? I know it's all about the back pressure, so I was wondering if you had experienced it with your application.
This could really help FUTURE with his work...it might help those of us with Lexan already installed in our coupes, too!
02-14-2008, 05:47 PM
#70
Burning Brakes
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sorry for the delay, I have been in Quebec for the last couple of weeks on business. I did not see the F40 there tonight only the Enzo but I will check in more detail tomorrow
02-16-2008, 01:21 PM
#73
It's going to be hit or miss on that, as the hatch is tempered I believe.
Back when I was 16 I worked for an aquarium shop, and we did drill out the bottoms of Oceanic tanks, which also were tempered.
IIRC: The shop owner would make a dam around the hole location with some clay, and filled the area with lubricant. I don't remember for sure what was used, just that it was clear, water like, likely a silicone spray or similar. The Oceanic bottoms were probably about 3/8" thick, and it would take him several hours to do a single hole. He would drill on it for about 5 minutes or so, then let it sit for an hour to cool down. Repeat till done.
He used one of those old Black and Decker drill guides, smoked clear plastic that allowed you to drill straight without rocking the bit, similar to this, only cheaper made. This would be an important attachment to keep you from apply uneven pressure.
Back then I didn't really know anything about that sort of thing, so I assumed he was using just a standard hole saw, but it was probably an abrasive type made just for drilling glass.
Do a search on drilling tempered glass to get an idea of what you are up against.
Just take it slow, and wear eye and face protection. Get it too hot, and you risk it exploding in your face, literally.
