amirpc

Well a while back I blew my motor and pulled it with a lot of help from the forum, found my #2 was scored and decided I need to replace my motor. I finally got a motor and the cash to finish the deal.

The motor is a lindsey built '86 shortblock:
- Re-plated Block w/Nicom
- Pauter Rods - rifle drilled
- JE Pistons - Fly cut, Thermal Coated
- Lightened Crank (Full works)
- Oil Pan with baffel
- Updated for auto-tensioner

My plan basically is to get the bottom end together as solid as possible, and use the stock head/turbo right now just to test everything out. Once that is good I'll replace the fuel system/turbo pretty much right away.

Here are the meaty components of the build:
- Fidanza lightened flywheel
- Kennedy Engineering Stage 1 Pressure Plate
- 930 Clutch Disc
- ARP Raceware Head studs
- Widefire headgasket

I've also got all necessary seals and a complete set of hardware coming.

Once I've settled on a build plan and I'm sure I've got all necessary components I'll be taking pictures and updating this thread with the progress I make regularly. This is a learning experience for me, as I've never done anything like this before.

This is the order I was thinking I'd perform the work as far as getting the motor ready for installation, thoughts?

1. Install Oil Filter/Cooler Assembly w/Updated OPRV
2. Install Updated Water Pump
3. Install A/C Compressor & Alternator
4. Install Power Steering Pump
5. Install Oil Fill Tube
6. Install Turbo
7. Install bell housing
8. Install flywheel
9. Install sensors
10. Install clutch w/alignment tool
11. Install ARP head studs
12. Install head (widefire gasket)
13. Install cam tower
14. Install sensors
15. Install coolant lines
16. Install oil lines
17. Install oil dipstick
18. Install engine wiring harness
19. Install intake manifold
20. Install auto-tensioner
21. Install rollers and sprockets
22. Install timing belts
23. Tension timing belts

So knowing that I'm totally new to this, how does my plan sound? Anyone have any thoughts?

mtnman82

You might want to search a bit on using KEP + 930 disk + Fidenza flywheel - some have had issues with that combo. I was going to go that way but wound up going with a lightened stock flywheel (instead of the Fidenza) and couldn't be happier.

amirpc

I researched it some before I bought it, and I have a friend who recommended them. I already have it, so at this point I'm just going to cross my fingers

I'll have my first update tonight I'll put up pics of my oil filter housing installation, not very interesting but I need to start somewhere!

DanG

I'm the friend that recommended the clutch combo. I remember reading about a few people having problems, but as far as I read (and asked about), they never actually found the source of their problem, just that it "didn't work".

Chris White started a thread about troubles, including finding the source of the problem was not the clutch combo....

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...lem-recap.html

And a number of other noted wisemen on here have vouched for the combo, including the likes of the infamous Lart, as well as this guy:
This is the thread with the strong warnings against the combo, but again the true source of the issue wasn't uncovered. As far as I can tell the issue is never actually the clutch parts, but either poorly bled hydraulics, broken/worn out clutch fork, or a worn/out of spec crankshaft thrust bearing...

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...age-2-a-3.html

From what I gather, a KEP + 930 disc + Fidanza FW can work if the following is true:

New thrust bearing (engine main bearings) in block
New throw out bearing
Clutch hydraulics are new and properly bled
New or good condition fork
You don't start the car or sit at lights with the clutch in (not that you'd want to with a beefy KEP2 under it)

Once again, I'd love to hear from someone with measurements/evidence of how or why the 3 components of KEP Stg1 or 2 + 930 disc + Fidanza FW will not work. As I've said, there's been a number of respected guys on here that have claimed to run this exact setup without any issues.

amirpc

Dan,

I'm going to go ahead and assemble it and if it looks like clearance will be an issue I'll reevaluate from there. I've already got the components so I might just replace the fork at that point. I know it's not cheap.

Anyhow, I did get my oil filter housing in but I reused my old fasteners and I'm not happy with it so I'm going to hold off on posting the update and wait until my new fasteners arrive and redo the oil filter housing install.

PS - I used a rock tumbler from Harbor Freight, then dropped them in a degreaser bath and man that does a REALLY good job of cleaning those bolts up. Anything still left on there comes off really easily with a wire brush drill bit.

amirpc

This might sound like a stupid question, but How do you guys get the flywheel back on?

I mean the motor is out of the car, I obviously can't use a flywheel lock to prevent the crankshaft from turning...what do I do to torque this thing on without causing the crankshaft to spin?

Same question, except for torquing the pulley onto the crankshaft. The flywheel is off and the motor is on a stand, the crank spins freely. How do I prevent it from spinning to torque the bolt on the end of the crank?

theedge

I use sacrificial pressure plate bolts. Thread few through then use a breaker bar or pipe held by a friend while you torque the flywheel bolts. With some creativity you can also thread bolts into the back side and let them hit the block.

67King

Put something incompressible into the cylinder. This usually means a soft rope, inserted into the spark plug hole (though not the entire rope).

BGA9512

Nice one!

amirpc

I actually have some sacrificial PP bolts, so I could maybe do this. I'll have to go look at my block though because without seeing it I don't understand the exact mechanics of what you're describing.

Is this really safe? Don't I risk damage to the piston head?

67King

Yes, I've done it several times, on 2.3L Fords and on a 951. It is rope. It is soft. MUCH softer than the hardened, forged (or hypereutectic, depending on the application) piston that pushes against it. If anything were to fail, it would be the connecting rod, which would bend similar to a hydrolock. But, you are only using it to torque down some rather small bolts.

It is actually a pretty common pracitce.

amirpc

Badass! I'm just going to do this. Thanks for the info.

amirpc

Hey guys I have my clutch fork all cleaned up and I'm looking at it trying to decide if it is in good shape, what should I be looking for? I've heard look for "grooving" or "notching," which I assume would occur at the area it contacts the throw out bearing?

amirpc

Additional question, should I do my oil pan gasket? The motor came to me as a shortblock with 3k miles on it, the prev owner says it didn't leak...but it was shipped freight.

Already got the motor out, hate to put it in and have to drop the crossmember later.

kdjones2000

Not so good:



Good: