DIY Tuning walk-through (TunerPro)
09-27-2009, 04:18 PM
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DIY Tuning walk-through (TunerPro)
Ok, I had time to finish everything up, and is packaged and attached in a .zip file:
TunerPro Bundle
In the zip file, I included a Word document which explains the DME in a little more detail, and also rehashes the info here. I suggest reading it, before starting.
This walk through is simply a quick guide for getting TunerPro running and using it with the 951.
In order to tune your 951, you will need the following:
Laptop computer w/ USB port
TunerPro 4.14
Ostrich 2.0 (or eprom burner)
Socket Booster (for the 24pin DME)
First , unzip the bundle to a familiar location, such as the desktop. Next, install the TunerPro software included in this bundle. Follow the prompts and necessary directions. If you are using the Ostrich 2.0, then install the Ostrich 2.0 drivers (included in bundle).
Now plug in the Ostrich to your laptop, start TunerPro and make sure it recognizes the Ostrich. TunerPro outputs its hardware connection status in lower left hand corner:
If TunerPro says “hardware not found” and the Ostrich is connected to your computer, then click on the ‘hardware plug’ in the toolbar:
Once your computer and TunerPro recognizes the Ostrich, you need to setup TunerPro for the 951. Included in the bundle are the necessary files. The first is the definition file. This is the file that tells TunerPro how to interpret the values in the 951 binary file. To load this file, press ‘XDF’ next to ‘File’ in the toolbar. Now choose ‘Select XDF’, direct TunerPro to the unzipped bundle.
You should see two XDF files, one for the 24pin DME and the other for the 28pin DME. Select the correct XDF for your application (1986-1987 should be the 24pin, 1988-on should be the 28pin). Your screen should now look like this:
Next we load the 951 binary, or ‘.bin’ file. This is the actual data that the DME uses, and what we will be tuning. Under the ‘File’ menu, select ‘Open Bin’. Now direct TunerPro to the unzipped bundle, and select the correct .bin file.
NOTE – only use a 24pin .bin with the 24pin XDF, and the 28pin .bin with the 28pin XDF!
Check that we have loaded everything correctly by double-clicking on an item in the left.
Now, each item has comments, if you do not have a ‘Item Comments’ window, click on ‘View’ then ‘Item Comments’, or press F10.
To change a value, click on the item, change the value, then click ‘save’ in the window. This saves the changes to the .bin. Once you have made any desired changes, save the file by pressing ‘File’, ‘Save Bin’. Then upload the new .bin to the Ostrich. This is done with one click of the ‘upload arrow’:
Note, you do not have to save the .bin before sending it to the Ostrich, but you do have to save any individual value changed for it to have effect.
The Ostrich simply plugs into the factory EPROM socket. The most important thing is to install the Ostrich in the correct direction. The red line on the ribbon cable should be towards the outside of the DME. Furthermore, if you have the 24pin DME, then install the Socket Booster with 4pins off of the EPROM socket.
Make sure you set the Socket Booster to ‘24pin’.
I ground a little bit of the DME case to allow the ribbon cable to pass through. I routed the ribbon cable as shown. This is an easy mod, and should only take a minute on a bench grinder:
If you have changed EPROM chips before, this is extremely similar. For those needing a refresher, included in the bundle is a chip replacement guide as found on the Lindsey Racing web site.
LR Chip Change Guide
When tuning, make small changes at a time, and avoid large changes between adjacent cells! DIY tuning can and should be a fun, learning experience. BUT be careful, as you alone are completely responsible for your engines health, I am not responsible for your actions. For the DIY’er, at minimum, I suggest a Wide-Band O2 (WBO2) sensor, and knock counter. A knock counter is less than $20, and will give insight to timing advance. For knock counter information, look at the link here. A WBO2 is imperative for proper air-fuel tuning. And at the price of current WBO2s, it would be foolish to not have one.
Finally, my hope is that this DIY will get more people interested in tuning the 951, and provide more knowledge for the average end-user. Building a community of knowledge can only help fellow enthusiasts.
Please feel free to contact me with any questions, comments or opinions. Preferable, post your questions and comments here, as it will probably help out others.
-Rogue
TunerPro Bundle
In the zip file, I included a Word document which explains the DME in a little more detail, and also rehashes the info here. I suggest reading it, before starting.
This walk through is simply a quick guide for getting TunerPro running and using it with the 951.
In order to tune your 951, you will need the following:
Laptop computer w/ USB port
TunerPro 4.14
Ostrich 2.0 (or eprom burner)
Socket Booster (for the 24pin DME)
First , unzip the bundle to a familiar location, such as the desktop. Next, install the TunerPro software included in this bundle. Follow the prompts and necessary directions. If you are using the Ostrich 2.0, then install the Ostrich 2.0 drivers (included in bundle).
Now plug in the Ostrich to your laptop, start TunerPro and make sure it recognizes the Ostrich. TunerPro outputs its hardware connection status in lower left hand corner:
If TunerPro says “hardware not found” and the Ostrich is connected to your computer, then click on the ‘hardware plug’ in the toolbar:
Once your computer and TunerPro recognizes the Ostrich, you need to setup TunerPro for the 951. Included in the bundle are the necessary files. The first is the definition file. This is the file that tells TunerPro how to interpret the values in the 951 binary file. To load this file, press ‘XDF’ next to ‘File’ in the toolbar. Now choose ‘Select XDF’, direct TunerPro to the unzipped bundle.
You should see two XDF files, one for the 24pin DME and the other for the 28pin DME. Select the correct XDF for your application (1986-1987 should be the 24pin, 1988-on should be the 28pin). Your screen should now look like this:
Next we load the 951 binary, or ‘.bin’ file. This is the actual data that the DME uses, and what we will be tuning. Under the ‘File’ menu, select ‘Open Bin’. Now direct TunerPro to the unzipped bundle, and select the correct .bin file.
NOTE – only use a 24pin .bin with the 24pin XDF, and the 28pin .bin with the 28pin XDF!
Check that we have loaded everything correctly by double-clicking on an item in the left.
Now, each item has comments, if you do not have a ‘Item Comments’ window, click on ‘View’ then ‘Item Comments’, or press F10.
To change a value, click on the item, change the value, then click ‘save’ in the window. This saves the changes to the .bin. Once you have made any desired changes, save the file by pressing ‘File’, ‘Save Bin’. Then upload the new .bin to the Ostrich. This is done with one click of the ‘upload arrow’:
Note, you do not have to save the .bin before sending it to the Ostrich, but you do have to save any individual value changed for it to have effect.
The Ostrich simply plugs into the factory EPROM socket. The most important thing is to install the Ostrich in the correct direction. The red line on the ribbon cable should be towards the outside of the DME. Furthermore, if you have the 24pin DME, then install the Socket Booster with 4pins off of the EPROM socket.
Make sure you set the Socket Booster to ‘24pin’.
I ground a little bit of the DME case to allow the ribbon cable to pass through. I routed the ribbon cable as shown. This is an easy mod, and should only take a minute on a bench grinder:
If you have changed EPROM chips before, this is extremely similar. For those needing a refresher, included in the bundle is a chip replacement guide as found on the Lindsey Racing web site.
LR Chip Change Guide
When tuning, make small changes at a time, and avoid large changes between adjacent cells! DIY tuning can and should be a fun, learning experience. BUT be careful, as you alone are completely responsible for your engines health, I am not responsible for your actions. For the DIY’er, at minimum, I suggest a Wide-Band O2 (WBO2) sensor, and knock counter. A knock counter is less than $20, and will give insight to timing advance. For knock counter information, look at the link here. A WBO2 is imperative for proper air-fuel tuning. And at the price of current WBO2s, it would be foolish to not have one.
Finally, my hope is that this DIY will get more people interested in tuning the 951, and provide more knowledge for the average end-user. Building a community of knowledge can only help fellow enthusiasts.
Please feel free to contact me with any questions, comments or opinions. Preferable, post your questions and comments here, as it will probably help out others.
-Rogue
Last edited by Rogue_Ant; 12-20-2009 at 01:38 AM.
09-27-2009, 05:15 PM
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does running with the 02 sensor unplugged affect anything besides fueling, because my afrs are better with it disconected. maybe i should disconnect it and try the output from my wideband?
09-27-2009, 05:26 PM
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Unplugging the O2 will keep the DME from going into closed-loop. It should not effect anything besides fuel. Alternatively, you could lower the closed-loop RPM limit to something like 500rpm, effectively turning off the closed-loop.
-Rogue
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09-27-2009, 06:09 PM
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runs much better that way, it was idleing at 17-19 with the open loop one. so when i added fuel to get it near 14.7 at start up it was more like 10.5, all better now. im so glad i bought the ostrich as my car runs so much better than it did with the chip that was in it.
09-27-2009, 06:53 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
