Home Made MAF
#31
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Well I haven't done too much reading into the ostrich, but the point of not being able to change the code was what I was getting at. So you setup the ostrich like a MAFterburner or such to massage the MAF signal?
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-Rogue
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#35
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In any event the MAF housing itself is only a little bigger than other 3" MAF's.
Also, I have no cone as that takes a lot of room and does not allow direct intake of ambient into the MAF so I have the MAF inlet side wrapped in the standard paper filter (think like a drum head) and then placed right up against the fender snorkle hole.
The size of the MAF, from my research, makes a difference, but the flow capcity of the MAF sensor itself is more important in terms of clipping the 5V sig. I was clipping my old Hunltey so I got this one so I would not have to get another one. Wit hmy set up at full boost and WOT I see about 4.2-4.3v as with the Hunltey and less boost was seeing 4.8v+
#37
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Going from the 3" Huntley MAF and cone to this MAF and paper filter wrap you can really hear the air get sucked in a lot more and I had to richen up the low end range alot as it obvioulsy brought in much more air in the lower revs than the previous one and spool up jumped a few 100 rpm.
Even with the laggy LR 75 turbo in 2nd with my 18x10 rears the back end will start to walk.
#38
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yeah thats cool i could def shave off the flat part. So the maf works good huh? what about a cobra maf. i have been bench testing and making charts all day long of different maf sensors. trying to find a close match. what piggy back are you using.
#39
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You guys are in need of better parts. Buy a Cobra or Lightning MAF and then use the A'PEXi SAFC II or Neo if you can find one. The SAFC II can be found for about $130 or less and the new NEO is about $350.00.
What this will allow you to do is completely tune your air/fuel ratio... regardless of airflow or boost levels. In the event that your car's ecu has a boost limiter, you can vent via checkvalve to the MAP sensor to do a boost peak, then via use of larger injectors, increase the fuel trim utilizing this tool. All the while maintaining full factory drivability and safety programming. The A'PEXi Air Flow Converters work by intercepting the signal between the car's air flow meter and the ECU.
The ECU calculates the proper ratio of fuel to air for a stock, unmodified engine. Certain engine modifications can cause the dynamics of the engine to require more fuel. In this case, there are two common options for modifying the amout of fuel being input into the engine. One can either install larger injectors or increase the fuel pressure to the stock injectors is increased.
Since the stock ECU thinks that it knows how much fuel it is putting into the engine based on the stock injector size and the stock fuel pressure, changing either of these will result in increased fuel. You may get lucky and just pick the perfect injector or fuel pressure that gives you the perfect air/fuel ratio. You may also get lucky and pick this weekends winning lottery numbers. In either case I wouldn't bet the farm on it. The Air Flow Converter gives you the means to adjust the amount of fuel that the ECU injects into the engine by modifying the signal from the air flow meter. This is done at specific RPM levels. This way you can tell the engine that a certain amount more air is flowing into the engine as a specific RPM than is really entering the engine, and the ECU will add that much more fuel. Decrease it at another RPM level and the ECU will decrease the fuel into the engine. It all boils down to identifying the correct wire into the ECU. In general, the following wires must be identified:
•Ground
•Power
•RPM
•Air Flow / Pressure Signal Input
•Air Flow / Pressure Signal Output
I have doubled the boost on my Yamaha Waverunner utilizing this tool and on many other vehicles where MAP or Air Metered functions control my fuel enrichments.
This is directly from the A'PEXi website:
http://www.apexi-usa.com/products/?id=5347
What this will allow you to do is completely tune your air/fuel ratio... regardless of airflow or boost levels. In the event that your car's ecu has a boost limiter, you can vent via checkvalve to the MAP sensor to do a boost peak, then via use of larger injectors, increase the fuel trim utilizing this tool. All the while maintaining full factory drivability and safety programming. The A'PEXi Air Flow Converters work by intercepting the signal between the car's air flow meter and the ECU.
The ECU calculates the proper ratio of fuel to air for a stock, unmodified engine. Certain engine modifications can cause the dynamics of the engine to require more fuel. In this case, there are two common options for modifying the amout of fuel being input into the engine. One can either install larger injectors or increase the fuel pressure to the stock injectors is increased.
Since the stock ECU thinks that it knows how much fuel it is putting into the engine based on the stock injector size and the stock fuel pressure, changing either of these will result in increased fuel. You may get lucky and just pick the perfect injector or fuel pressure that gives you the perfect air/fuel ratio. You may also get lucky and pick this weekends winning lottery numbers. In either case I wouldn't bet the farm on it. The Air Flow Converter gives you the means to adjust the amount of fuel that the ECU injects into the engine by modifying the signal from the air flow meter. This is done at specific RPM levels. This way you can tell the engine that a certain amount more air is flowing into the engine as a specific RPM than is really entering the engine, and the ECU will add that much more fuel. Decrease it at another RPM level and the ECU will decrease the fuel into the engine. It all boils down to identifying the correct wire into the ECU. In general, the following wires must be identified:
•Ground
•Power
•RPM
•Air Flow / Pressure Signal Input
•Air Flow / Pressure Signal Output
I have doubled the boost on my Yamaha Waverunner utilizing this tool and on many other vehicles where MAP or Air Metered functions control my fuel enrichments.
This is directly from the A'PEXi website:
The AFC NEO is unique in the sense that it has a built in MAF/MAP transfer function, which is necessary when the tuner swaps MAF/MAP sensors from one vehicle application to another. By setting the sensor IN and OUT to the appropriate sensor numbers, the AFC NEO can act as a translator/emulator unit, eliminating the need for costly sensor or ECU reprogramming.
#41
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Use the method I prescribed above and you can build a 400+hp engine with daily drivability in the separate map functions. Meaning.... you can have a Racegas map and a Street economy pump gas map.
#43
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The Neo is overkill and its simply for the ricer wannabe's needing the new latest and greatest. That should flood the market with lots of SAFC2s out there. I received my last one for FREE from a Subaru guy changing his set-up to a standalone system. It has currently served me quite well on my Yamaha. I will however be purchasing another one for my O.J. Bronco that has one helluva cam the Speed Density tuning hates at idle.
#44
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Sure... throw a $3500 Motec at it. Now... who is going to make up the harness, baseline tune it and take responsibility for popping the engine? Oh wait... where's the knock sensor? Oh yeah... that's another $1500.00 Wideband OPTION!
Use the method I prescribed above and you can build a 400+hp engine with daily drivability in the separate map functions. Meaning.... you can have a Racegas map and a Street economy pump gas map.
Use the method I prescribed above and you can build a 400+hp engine with daily drivability in the separate map functions. Meaning.... you can have a Racegas map and a Street economy pump gas map.
Plenty of other options out there besides Motec. Link G4 extreme has knock monitoring. There's a certain guy in chicago that make harnesses for the 951 too.
Then there's megasquirt too...
There's always the cheap way and the right way to do things.
In all reality, everyone should just go back to running MAFs with ARC2's!!!