Wet Sleeving a motor
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Wet Sleeving a motor
Hi All,
Quick question. Since my #2 cylinder is cracked, I'm wondering if I can just wet sleeve the motor? From what I understand, wet sleeving a motor with Darton MID sleeves basically replaces the stock sleeve? Am I correct. Please let me know.
Thanks,
Chris
Quick question. Since my #2 cylinder is cracked, I'm wondering if I can just wet sleeve the motor? From what I understand, wet sleeving a motor with Darton MID sleeves basically replaces the stock sleeve? Am I correct. Please let me know.
Thanks,
Chris
#2
Three Wheelin'
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These motors are not sleeved from the factory. If you currently have a sleeved motor, that means they have been added at some point. If this is the case, it would actually be beneficial, since you can just press the old sleeve out and replace it with a new one.
In addition to a wet sleeve, you can dry sleeve as well. With a wet sleeve, some or all of the original bore tower will be machined away, with the sleeve to block joint being exposed to the water jacket. A dry sleeve does not expose any sleeve to block joints to the water jacket.
Personally I like dry sleeving.
Edit:
For some reason I glanced over the cracked cylinder statement. Wet sleeve or replacement block would be the only options. I don't know how good of an option doing just one bore tower will be. Depending on piston compatibility, you might have to do all of them.
In addition to a wet sleeve, you can dry sleeve as well. With a wet sleeve, some or all of the original bore tower will be machined away, with the sleeve to block joint being exposed to the water jacket. A dry sleeve does not expose any sleeve to block joints to the water jacket.
Personally I like dry sleeving.
Edit:
For some reason I glanced over the cracked cylinder statement. Wet sleeve or replacement block would be the only options. I don't know how good of an option doing just one bore tower will be. Depending on piston compatibility, you might have to do all of them.
#3
Race Car
In addition to a wet sleeve, you can dry sleeve as well. With a wet sleeve, some or all of the original bore tower will be machined away, with the sleeve to block joint being exposed to the water jacket. A dry sleeve does not expose any sleeve to block joints to the water jacket.
Personally I like dry sleeving.
Wet sleeve or replacement block would be the only options. I don't know how good of an option doing just one bore tower will be. Depending on piston compatibility, you might have to do all of them.
Personally I like dry sleeving.
Wet sleeve or replacement block would be the only options. I don't know how good of an option doing just one bore tower will be. Depending on piston compatibility, you might have to do all of them.
#4
Rennlist Member
Some pics that do a great job of illustrating the basics of the wet sleeving process.
Last edited by 87944turbo; 04-23-2011 at 09:17 AM. Reason: Link removed, Glad to see you're site has been updated Chris.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
67 King, I did get a block from Lart, thanks thought.
I would wet sleeve all cylinders not just my cracked one. I was just wondering if wet sleeving would work, which you have answered, it does.
I would wet sleeve all cylinders not just my cracked one. I was just wondering if wet sleeving would work, which you have answered, it does.
#6
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Or you could look at http://www.944enhancement.com/html/e...machining.html for a nice write up and some more pictures of the machining.
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#10
JMG bored the 944 to 108mm for 3.2L... is this the biggest that's been done?
http://www.jmgarage.co.uk/CMS/index....e-944-32-turbo
http://www.jmgarage.co.uk/CMS/index....e-944-32-turbo
#12
Rennlist Member
No mather what size you bore a 2,5l block the 2,5l head will fit.
#13
The 2.5 head has a 100mm combustion chamber, if you bore to 104 o 106mm, are there any issues in leaving a "small size" head?
I know a 2.7 head can be fittted to a 2.5 block, but is it necessary or just better for performance?
#14
Rennlist Member
The way i have been told is that there are differences between the water passages in a 3l/2,7l block and the 2,5l blocks my mechanic seems to think that the 2,5l head works fine on his 3l block with out doing anything to the combustion chamber. He only machined the water passanges . But its a interesting question.
#15
For a build using bores larger than either the stock 100mm or 104mm sizes I would probably look into modifying the quench area on the head.
Last edited by Thom; 11-15-2012 at 09:38 AM.