Momentary total shutdown under hard accelleration.
#17
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Is your car stock?
#19
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Yes. It was an old beat up positive cable that, under hard accelerations, would arc against something down behind the engine. The cable insulation had worn away, leaving a bare cable area. Replaced the cable and it was all good.
#21
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I had the same problem. Tried virtually everything, TPS, cap, rotor, DME relay, DMEs, sensors, etc... Could never really track it down. Finally swapped in a different KLR and installed a MSD 6A ignition. Hasn't done it since. I still can't say for sure what it was, but...
#22
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You sure is not overboost protection right?
#23
It feels just like overboost protection but happens well before the boost hits max. when it first started it would hit at about 5000 rpm if i gave it full throttle, then last week as i was going up a hill and gave it about 3/4 throttle it cut out at 4200 or so rpm. Its now at the shop where a team of Germans is trying to figure it out armed with copy's of a couple of threads that i printed out from rennlist. hope they can figure it out ...
#24
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It feels just like overboost protection but happens well before the boost hits max. when it first started it would hit at about 5000 rpm if i gave it full throttle, then last week as i was going up a hill and gave it about 3/4 throttle it cut out at 4200 or so rpm. Its now at the shop where a team of Germans is trying to figure it out armed with copy's of a couple of threads that i printed out from rennlist. hope they can figure it out ...
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#28
This issue affected my car when I bought it. On the test drive, under full throttle acceleration, the engine would just shut down at around 5K RPM. Happened twice during that initial test drive.
At the time I just backed off the throttle, drove it more slowly and guessed it was something cutting power to the DME (relay, etc). Replaced the DME relay and never had another problem. I also replaced the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, cap & rotor, air filter etc. - but that was a week or so later. Regardless, never had the issue again.
Try swapping the DME relay and go from there.
At the time I just backed off the throttle, drove it more slowly and guessed it was something cutting power to the DME (relay, etc). Replaced the DME relay and never had another problem. I also replaced the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, cap & rotor, air filter etc. - but that was a week or so later. Regardless, never had the issue again.
Try swapping the DME relay and go from there.
#29
Drifting
Make sure the wires on each side of your new positive battery cable it tight and not corroded. Replace the DME relay. Open up your DME and KLR and see if there is corrosion on the circuit board. If so see Lart. I didn't have a vaccum hooked up to my wastegate for a minute and it didn't cause any problem, just 18 psi. I do have chips but I don't think that's the problem. If your DME is loosing power check the connections from the battery to the DME. I've seen the wires loose on the positive cable cause that same condition. Check your alternator and starter wires to make sure there not grounding out anywhere, new or not. The first think I would do is open up the DME and KLR for corrosion check. Then take out the DME relay and take off the cover to check the condition of the connections. It sounds like you have a shorted positive wire. Or a realy bad connection but on a none fuse wire. Meaning right from the battery to whatever device it going to, like the alternator or starter, or from the battery to the fuse box or DME. Also do the "pull test" meaning there could be a broken wire inside the harness but you won't know until you pull the wire and it splits. I had this happen in my 96 mustang trying to figure out the passanger power window intermittent failure, I found a broken wire in the driver door jam area. But the insulation was still intact. Had to do the pull test to find the break. On cold days the window would work and on hot days it wouldn't because electricity flows better in cold wires due to less resistance.