Clutch for street/track
#16
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what ever you do not get a SPEC they suck. you cant modulate them at all. its like u have clutch then you dont. on/off. get a get stage 1 its just like factory but slightly stiffer. I have kep on mine. and i have driven spec as well.
#17
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Interesting comment. I have a Spec stage II. Segmented kevlar disk. Modulates very well. Slightly heavier than stock pedal effort. Doesn't slip with the amount of torque i'm making so far. I have no brand loyalty to Spec and have driven many other clutches but wouldn't make a broad statement that they suck.
#18
This didn't cost
me any drachmas
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me any drachmas
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Interesting comment. I have a Spec stage II. Segmented kevlar disk. Modulates very well. Slightly heavier than stock pedal effort. Doesn't slip with the amount of torque i'm making so far. I have no brand loyalty to Spec and have driven many other clutches but wouldn't make a broad statement that they suck.
#19
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I don't want to rain on big hp aftermarket clutches, but if they have way higher clamping force than stock, it's not good.
Really the only way that main bearings fail in this car is thrust bearing failure from riding the clutch and/or using clutches with high clamping force.
I make plenty of hp and use a sachs cup-car clutch without incident.
Really the only way that main bearings fail in this car is thrust bearing failure from riding the clutch and/or using clutches with high clamping force.
I make plenty of hp and use a sachs cup-car clutch without incident.
#20
Race Car
I've used the stock sachs with a 930 disk and it would not hold 370 lb ft. I would recomend southbend as well.
I'm going to try a spec PP with the feramic disk next to see how it does. If it doesn't hold I'm going to KEP stg 1 PP. I know it works well in Josh's car (KEP feramic)
edit; forgot he has stg 2 pp
I'm going to try a spec PP with the feramic disk next to see how it does. If it doesn't hold I'm going to KEP stg 1 PP. I know it works well in Josh's car (KEP feramic)
edit; forgot he has stg 2 pp
#21
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Spec
I currently have a Spec stage 3 hybrid. My Centerforce clutch was replaced because I had to replace the crank seal so it was one of those "while you're in there"...
It does rev faster with the billet FW and it does have a lot more chatter. I have less than a 1k miles on it and works fine for my purposes as a track day toy. I only hope the chatter subsides as it gets annoying for the occasional beer run.
It does rev faster with the billet FW and it does have a lot more chatter. I have less than a 1k miles on it and works fine for my purposes as a track day toy. I only hope the chatter subsides as it gets annoying for the occasional beer run.
#22
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Holds up fine with 415 rwhp, however.
If clutch jobs weren't such a pain, I'd have swapped it out for something else already.
#23
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Interesting comment. I have a Spec stage II. Segmented kevlar disk. Modulates very well. Slightly heavier than stock pedal effort. Doesn't slip with the amount of torque i'm making so far. I have no brand loyalty to Spec and have driven many other clutches but wouldn't make a broad statement that they suck.
#24
I have the KEP stage 1 and a KEP street disc.
It seems to hold all the power I make. Not idea how much power. I do know that when it comes on boost hard in 2nd gear from a roll, the tires will start spinning and the rear end kicks out.
It feels like the clutch is slipping (RPMS rise really fast and car isn't accelerating) but the rear end starts going to the right so I know its not the clutch slipping.
I need stickier tires now....
-Dana
It seems to hold all the power I make. Not idea how much power. I do know that when it comes on boost hard in 2nd gear from a roll, the tires will start spinning and the rear end kicks out.
It feels like the clutch is slipping (RPMS rise really fast and car isn't accelerating) but the rear end starts going to the right so I know its not the clutch slipping.
I need stickier tires now....
-Dana
#26
There's a lot of good info in this thread. Nothing beats hands on experience.
Tons of people love the SPEC kits, and tons of people hate them, too.
I had to do a clutch job twice because my first clutch wasn't working properly (should have listened to everyone, but I didn't...and I paid for it).
Will the car have to be back up quick? Or can you afford to let it sit for a little while?
One suggestion I have would be to move away from the factory turbo disc to avoid having to deal with the small helper springs later down the road. If they fall out, it's not fun!
#27
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Another thing is. Drive a 951 with the clutch options you want and test it. IF you were around me i would let you drive my car so you can get a feel. I think that's the best way. I did it and i am super happy with the results
#28
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Did you follow the break in procedure they recommend of 500 miles of stop and go driving before full throttle acceleration. The reason I ask is because I had the same experience my my spec stage 2 as s14kev. good modulation without chatter and no slipping.
#29
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Clutch/pedal adjustment has alot to do with driveability also. My spec stage 2 clutch initially had the engagement point almost at the top of pedal travel and felt more on/off. With some adjustment so that the engagement point is at the middle of pedal travel, engagement is now almost like a factory clutch.
I've driven many 3 or 4 puck clutches with sintered bronze friction elements. Those are what I call on/off switches. Most full face clutches with organic or kevlar linings are pretty friendly on the street. Having a left leg that is stronger than a wet noodle helps though. Maybe some folks can try working out a little
I've driven many 3 or 4 puck clutches with sintered bronze friction elements. Those are what I call on/off switches. Most full face clutches with organic or kevlar linings are pretty friendly on the street. Having a left leg that is stronger than a wet noodle helps though. Maybe some folks can try working out a little