GaryK

From what I understand, when the ball joints wear out on the front control arms, the options are either 1)replace with high-dollar billet aluminum arms with new ball joints (Fabcar, Charlie), 2) Rebuild the original arms with new more durable ball joints (Sloan, Dynamic European,etc), or 3) replace the control arms/ball joints with new factory items.

Also, the ball joints are unduly stressed when the car is lowered excessively and/or a huge swaybar is used, particularly during track use.

In perusing the archives, I found reference to updated, beefier 951S control arms (with larger ball joints as well?):
944.341.927.031
944.341.928.031

and also to "light track duty" arms, which might be the stock 968 arms?:
944.341.027.02
944 341.028.02

and also to competition arms, which PMNA told me are no longer available:
951.341.027.32
951 341.028.32

I track my '89 frequently, but it's not a race car and the suspension is close to stock. It's not nearly as low as the adjustments allow and the bar is a 30mm 968 M030 one. $1600 for control arms is not in my budget, but the 951S and 968 arms are about half that. Several tuners recommended avoiding rebuilt arms if the car is tracked at all.

So,

1) Any btdt experiences with the Sloan, Dynamic European or other ball joints fitted to factory arms?
2) Are all 951/968 control arms interchangeable - same ball joint pin diameter, other dimensions, etc? What were the differences between the 951, 951S and 968 arms?
3) Anyone seen the updated 951S arm or the "light track duty" (968?) arm and can confirm any improvements?
4) Also, what about modifying the sway bar end link to attach to the upright instead of the control arm. This should increase roll stiffness and reduce stress on the ball joints.

thanks,
Gary
89 951 - back on the road with a new T04E turbo as soon as I fix the heater hoses and fuel lines that just started leaking

slevy951

1) Sloan's are good. Be careful with the rebuilds. I've seen one, don't know who did it, that was a hodge-podge of parts. The arm was enlarged to accept a bigger bushing. There were shims at the base of the spring to make up for a shorter spring. It wasnt' pretty.

2) IIRC, the only differece in stock arms is between the years. 87- were longer.

3-4) Can't help with these, sorry....

Mike A.

Gary,
I have used stock a-arms on a track only car('89 951). A ball joint began to loosen after one season. Car was at stock ride height with an M030 30mm antiroll bar and Turbo S Cup shocks and springs. I replaced the stock ball jts. with European Racing Products heavy duty race ball jts., and lowered the car. Never had a problem in over 2 seasons, they were inspected and magnafluxed after each season. I eventually got billet arms when I got more radical with the suspension. I still have the stock arms w/ the ERP's if you're interested in a purchase.
Mike

GaryK

Know of a source for the European Racing Products ball joints, Mike? Sound like these or the Sloan's are the replacements to use.

But, does anyone know what's so special about the 968 arms that Porsche would recommend them for light track use?
944.341.027.02
944 341.028.02

Gary

jason952

I think it is just that the 968 ones supercede the orig. 944 p/n's The 968 M030s work fine and have the larger slotted pin w/ a small flange that fits the 968 style brake cooler duct.

Call 1800porsche and ask about outstanding recalls on your car, you may get some free control arms out of the deal, like I did with my S. Apparently only the S models are subject to the recall. They may also owe you a fuel line as they did me.

I had one are rebuilt by dynamic before I realized about the recall (doh) and I have been very satisfied with their work.

If it came to buying new ones, I would just get Charleys instead of the near 700 retail for the porsche parts. Discounters may sell the new arms closer to 500, try sunset. Always be sure to mention the '89 model year and that the car is M030 spec so you get the right stuff.

Jason

yoyoguy2

markus blaszak of blaszak precision does an excellent rebuild of stock aluminum arms for $150 an arm. i just completed this, and they seemed top notch, only complaint was they're rebuilt on your cores, so you have to send them first, and shipping to and from canada where he's based is slower than anything.

if you track your car i'd suggest blaszak's steel reinforced racing arms. they're similar to the steel arms on early 944s in that they take the same, dirt cheap, replacable ball joint, but they are reinforced for racing application. i think they go $250 each.

<a href="http://www.geocities.com/blaszak_precision/" target="_blank">http://www.geocities.com/blaszak_precision/</a>

i don't mean to sound like a markus blaszak commercial, but i just went through this and he's a good guy and does good work.

Mike A.

Mark,
sorry don't know a source for ERP. Try asking at Racers Edge. They have an ad in Pano.

GaryK

Well, the price on the 968 arms is reasonable, like half of the Charlie arms. But if they still have the same ball joints, end-link mounts, etc, then maybe they're not worth it.
Thanks for the tip on the Blaszak arms. He doesn't even mention them on his web site.
Gary

belz

GaryK-
I have a set of the "competition" control arms from my '86 951. They're pretty trick ... no rubber etc. They use the same ball joint.
I've gone to the charlie arms (dedicated race car)
I ran the factory control arms for years and only had problems with the ball joints ... never an arm failure. Spindles ('86) ... now that's another story! .... (snapped 3 of them)

Rich Sandor

belz, do you still have factory 86 951 control arms? Are the ball joints worn?

I also need new "control arms" but was thinking of blaszak.

belz

Yes .. I still have the factory comp. control arms. One of the ball joints is worn and would need to be rebuilt. (I would hve them both rebuilt at the same time though) Interested?

Rich Sandor

Well, I have stock factory arms on my 86 right now that are worn.

The issue is, I need to find the cheapest route to get them rebuilt.

Although not the cheapest, I really like the idea of using blaszak arms, becuase apparently, I need to use 924s/944 caster plates, which will let me set camber/caster. HOWEVER, these are supposed to be available for 10-20$ at the autowrecker.. no luck. New ones seems to sell for as much as 250$!!!

My car is lowered, so the bearings will wear out again sooner than if it wasn't lowered. That's another reason I want to be able to replace the ball joints in the future, as opposed to the whole arm.

However my mechanic views using steel arms as going backwards... they are heavier, etc etc.. but I can't afford billet arms, yet.

Do I sound like a kid who can't 'make up his mind? I am...

slevy951

Guys,

FYI.....I now have replacement bushings for the ball joints. Check the KLA Industries link below and go to "products". They are in production right now and should be ready to ship in a week or two...

Danno

"I need to use 924s/944 caster plates, which will let me set camber/caster. HOWEVER, these are supposed to be available for 10-20$ at the autowrecker.. no luck. New ones seems to sell for as much as 250$!!!"

Aren't the early steel 924/944 A-arms the same as some VW model? Golf? Jetta? Rabbit? Would the caster-block from those cars work?

eclou

Parts Heaven has the caster blocks for $10 each. I just got mine 2 weeks ago.

Eugene