markvtg

I am getting ready to assemble the head and would like to know if there are any suggestions to making this a one time and smooth process. I found the following torque specs....15lbs first pass and then (2) 90 angle meter. I am using a wide fire head gasket with new nuts and washers.

fortysixandtwo

The factory work shop manual lists the three steps as, 14, 36, 65 (all in lb·ft) With a light coat of engine oil on the stud threads.

Follow the torque pattern, and out side of that, no voodoo required.

Reimu

I thought the initial torquing followed by the degree turn was the updated method?

fortysixandtwo

It may have been updated. The FWM copies, I have, were printed in 1991. If there is a newer version, with a revised method, use that.
The method of tightening by a low torque setting followed by degrees of rotation, is more accurate than using a torque wrench at a higher value. (it has to do with the % error of the torque wrench and friction variables)

The 968 manual (printed 1994) uses a torque / angle method, so Porsche did migrate to this method of tightening. The 968 specs are different than the OP listed, (second stage angle is less) but it has a different head casting and stud lengths, so I wouldn't expect the values to be the same.

zeusrotty

Lefty loosy righty tighty

ramius665

Mark, that's the torque sequence I followed when I did my rebuild. It's been 2 years and 9k miles and no issues. I purchased a torque angle gauge from Summit Racing and used a breaker bar. I've heard of some folks torquing it down at each step and letting the head sit at that torque overnight but haven't heard about anyone having less issues using that method.

Bri Bro

Scuff the bottom of the washers to keep them from turning. Make sure the threads are lightly oiled and letting the head sit between the stages is a good idea. Check that the new nuts spin on and off of the studs smoothly before you torque them down.

I was given a very good tip on the washers, get a rough file and put the washer on it and hit it with a hammer. The cross hatch pattern of the file will transfer to the bottom of the washer.

Tom M'Guinn

The torque plus angle method is indeed Porsche's update to the original 65 ft lbs spec. For stock studs I would follow that process (torque angle). Use a green scotchbrite pad on cylinder tops and deck (using great care to keep bores free of debris) and have the head skimmed as little as possible to ensure flat clean surface. Check deck with a straight edge for flatness. Make sure alignment dowels are fully seated. If you are running anything other than stock chips and boost, a wideband and knock counter are wise...

944hal

Scuff, not stuff :-) I use a magic marker to align the washer with the block. When you torque, the washer should not turn. Scuffing helps hold it in place.

Bri Bro

Scuff the stuff...got it.

jc in rb

Yeah,Cuff the stuffs.

markvtg

I appreciate all the responses. Hope to have it all back together this weekend. Thanks!